After an epic tenure as chef at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, chef Dean Fearing reinvented himself with this eponymous restaurant at the newly built Ritz-Carlton Dallas. There is his considerable charisma, radiant as the sun. There's his voucher from Wolfgang Puck, who calls him "the king." There was his cameo on Top Chef Texas, where he showed his acumen at spotting flavors and flaws in technique. But all that aside, chef Dean Fearing makes food we want to eat, such as pecan-crusted mahi mahi with crispy Tabasco Ipswich clams and green tomato-sage gravy.