Dallas-bred chain from chef Nick Badovinus hits the comfort zone, with a menu that tries yet doesn't try too hard. Dishes are good old American with a gourmet flair: chicken pot pie, scallops with cheddar polenta, fish and chips, and tenderloin with potato gratin. Salads are generous, and appetizers such as fried asparagus are nifty. NS is on board with the mixology trend, with well-conceived cocktails and a solid wine list. But as much as anything, Neighborhood Services is about the atmosphere, which is both relaxed and upscale, welcoming yet hip.