Foodie News

Dallas' No. 1 diner shares first look at ballyhooed chef's restaurant


Homewood
Photo by Brad Murano
Homewood rolls
Photo by Brad Murano
Homewood carrots
Photo by Brad Murano
Homewood
Photo by Brad Murano
Homewood
Photo by Brad Murano
Homewood
Photo by Brad Murano
Homewood mushrooms
Photo by Brad Murano

Reservations are now on for Homewood, the newly opened restaurant from award-winning chef Matt McCallister.

McCallister has been working on this Oak Lawn restaurant which took over the former Beck's Prime space at 4002 Oak Lawn Ave. since the 2018 closure of his acclaimed Design District restaurant FT33.

He's a longtime critical darling, and the restaurant is already being met with hosannas, even despite a tagline that says "Warm atmosphere + genuine food." Is there food that is not genuine?

Dallas' most diligent diner, Brad Murano, has already visited the restaurant and had a meal. He's allowed us to borrow his photos for a first look.

Pictured: Emmer gemelli with razor clams, chorizo, and roasted garlic.

Starters include these Parker House rolls, which cost $6 — gone are the days of free bread, eh? But come on, these rolls come in their own wee ironstone pan. Besides, bread should be elevated, not diminished.

They're served with a dipping sauce made of parmesan mornay — a béchamel with shredded cheese — and chicken drippings.

Along with starters, there are salads, soups, entrees, and pastas that include tortellini, ricotta gnocchi, and spaghetti made from toasted red wheat pasta, with black pepper and pecorino romano.

McCallister likes roots. One of the signatures at FT33 was a dish featuring smoked potatoes, and at Homewood, he's doing these glazed carrots with peanut crumble and sweet onion dressing.

There's also a salad with embered beets, mustard greens, and burnt onion in a tahini dressing, and a potato soup with hot sauce and lemon.

Entrees include a half chicken, steelhead trout cooked over embers, grass-fed sirloin, smoked pork loin, and Wagyu rib eye.

No vegetarian dishes although there are vegetable options among the starters and sides such as frittered broccolini; wilted greens "with tons of garlic"; and butter-braised snow peas (pictured) with chile oil and rye bread crumbs.

Desserts are by Maggie Huff, who was also pastry chef at FT33, and include coconut tart with caramelized apple; Valhrona chocolate and passion fruit torte with coffee, hazelnuts, and toffe ice cream; and rice pudding with roasted strawberries and candied pistachios. Pictured: rhubarb galette with whey jam and vanilla creme fraiche ice cream.

Homewood interior with a view of the raw bar, where you can order oysters with tomato vine vinegar mignonette; bluefin tuna with charred fennel and puffed grains; and dry-aged beef tartare with potato chips and "tons of horseradish."

This is a side of forest mushrooms swimming in smoked butter, for $9.

The most expensive item on the menu is the pork loin for $33. Most entrees are in the $25 to $30 range, which is doable. But don't worry, they get it back with high-ish prices on starters and salads, from $10 to $15.