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    Clock is ticking

    Hot-as-blazes FT33 asserts its role as Dallas foodie central

    Teresa Gubbins
    Oct 24, 2012 | 5:34 pm
    • FT33's chicken breast with chicken confit.
      Photo by Teresa Gubbins
    • FT33's scallops with puréed cauliflower.
      Photo by Teresa Gubbins
    • Chef Matt McCallister of FT33.
      Photo by Jenna Rosier

    Open less than two weeks, FT33 — Matt McCallister's new restaurant in the Design District — became the epicenter of the Dallas food scene Tuesday night. Its dining room was packed with media and industry people who like to visit a restaurant as soon as it opens.

    During the day, the restaurant's Los Angeles-based PR firm hosted a tasting lunch for a dozen or so bloggers from SideDish, the Observer, and PaperCity. At night, diners included McCallister's wife, Iris, and her aide-de-camp, Christina LaBarba; sommeliers James Tidwell and Melissa Monosoff (who will host a sommelier dinner at FT33 on October 29); publicist Lindsey Miller; Hotel ZaZa/Dragonfly manager Alex Aland; and David Anthony Temple, a.k.a. "Chef DAT," who was celebrating a birthday with a table of a dozen friends that included his mother.

    The hardest-working person had to be Ryan Tedder, tasked with recommending a wine to a critic known for extreme finickiness in that department.

    Among the dinnertime media types were June Naylor from DFW.com, Pat Sharpe from Texas Monthly, Mark Stuertz from Modern Luxury, Leslie Brenner from the Dallas Morning News, and Maxine Trowbridge from Pink Memo. Who was there by invitation it is not for me to say, but one can assume Sharpe and Brenner were not expecting such company.

    McCallister, who appeared on Fox 4's Good Day Wednesday morning, is known for concentrating so intently on his presentation that he rarely looks up from his plate. But more than once he could be seen fixing his gaze on Brenner, who was seated in his line of sight.

    But the hardest-working person in the restaurant had to be Ryan Tedder, tasked with recommending a wine to a critic known for extreme finickiness in that department. Were those beads of sweat on his forehead as he proffered a bottle to Brenner and her table?

    There's no way to know how many tables paid their bill, but many of the media were there on someone else's dime, including me. (I did leave a pretty good tip.) My table shared four appetizers: a turnip-radish salad, pork jowl, uni and chive pancakes, and smoked potatoes. We also sampled four entrées, including lamb, chicken, scallops and the nightly fish catch.

    ​ Texture seems big here. Scallops always get seared, but FT33's had thick crusts on top and bottom, with a still-gentle center.

    The pork jowl and smoked potatoes made everyone at the table "oooh." The pork was eye-catching, with the pink meat cut into slabs and propped up like a mini Stonehenge. The potato dish had a surprisingly meaty personality for a veggie dish; the smoking gave the potatoes a meaty flavor and the accompanying maitake mushrooms boasted a hearty texture.

    Texture seemed big. Scallops get seared everywhere, but FT33's had thick crusts on top and bottom, with a still-gentle center. They were placed over mounds of the creamiest-ever cauliflower purée.

    The chicken preparation was also unique. Chicken breast was pressed until firm, then laser-cut in half and perched sideways into a tableau. It came with a shredded chicken thigh "confit" with chanterelle mushrooms and a few random boiled peanuts.

    The wild part is that on the same Tuesday night, Ocho Kitchen + Cocktails in North Dallas and Seasons 52 at NorthPark Center both held introductory media events, and Baccarat crystal hosted a party at Salum introducing a new line of wine glasses trying to compete with Reidel.

    Dallas' restaurant scene is enjoying crazy times, but even with that, you don't usually see such a cluster as this. The only person missing was The Brad.

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    news/restaurants-bars
    series/dtx-good-eats-2012

    Closure News

    The original Dick's Last Resort in Dallas closes after 40 years

    Teresa Gubbins
    Dec 2, 2025 | 5:49 pm
    Dick's Last Resort
    Dick's Last Resort
    Dick's Last Resort

    A venerable destination in the downtown Dallas area has closed: Dick's Last Resort, the notoriously saucy restaurant and bar at 2211 Lamar St., has closed permanently, after 40 years.

    According to a representative from the Nashville-based chain, the final day for the Dallas location was November 30.

    "Business at that location had been declining, and they were facing an increase in rent, so they made a decision to close," the representative said.

    Dick's Last Resort was founded right here in Dallas in 1985 as a winking, impudent good-time spot with good bar food and cold beer, at a time when leg warmers and mullets were the rage.

    The concept was hatched by bon vivant "Buffalo George" Toomer and Richard "Dick" Chase, centered on a saga about a bad boy named Dick whose big-league plans had failed and who pivoted to open a laid-back bar full of attitude and dick jokes. The restaurant featured gruff staffers and a Southern-style menu in a rowdy roadhouse environment.

    It became a huge success, with customers coming eagerly to be insulted, get pelted with napkins and straws, and wear paper hats with crude comments and insults written in a sharpie such as "I've nailed more wood than HGTV." That atmosphere made it a popular destination for bachelorette parties and other group events, and it was a big tourist draw at its then-location in the West End. (It relocated to its current location close to American Airlines Center in 2005.)

    Although the food took a backseat to the atmosphere, the menu — written on the wall — featured ribs, chicken, wings, and burgers, served casually in paper and buckets. In its heyday and for many years, it remained lodged on the TABC Top 10 list for beer sales in Dallas.

    Chase was ousted for embezzling by the financial backers, who went on to grow the concept into a national chain, with locations in Boston, Chicago, and London. Those are now closed, but there are currently a dozen Dick's across the southeast in Florida, South Carolina, Tennessee, as well as Las Vegas and a longtime location in San Antonio on the Riverwalk.

    Dallas restaurateur Mike McRae, who currently owns restaurants such as Dodie's Cajun Diner in Rockwall, Stan's Blue Note, Table 13 in Addison, and McRae's Bistro in East Dallas, worked for Dick's for 23 years and owned the Dallas location for 12 years.

    "I was hired as their general manager 18 months after it opened," McRae says. "Richard Chase was kind of a hothead. He would fire people on the drop of a pin. We had a pink plastic flamingo with a light inside behind the bar, and he was adamant that the light be on all the time. He once fired a GM because the light was off."

    Dick's was owned by Steven Schiff, a Dallas entrepreneur who was in real estate and oil, but had no experience in the restaurant industry.

    "Steve talked to Norman Brinker and said, 'I've got this place but I don't want to be in the restaurant business — how do I sell this?'" McRae says. "Norman said, 'You need to open two more locations in different cities.' So we opened the location in San Antonio and a third in downtown Chicago. Both were wildly successful — way more than Dallas. These places were netting over $1 million in yearly profits, which was a lot of money back then. We opened one in London, Boston, San Diego, Myrtle Beach, they were in major cities all over the U.S."

    McRae eventually became director of operations and they kept it running until 2009 when they sold the company to its current ownership group based in Nashville. McRae bought the Dallas location in 2010, later joined by his partner Gabe Nicolella; they owned it for 12 years before selling it back to the corporate owners in 2021.

    "We did some crazy things in those days, like creating a fake restroom with a pair of tennis shoes visible and a tape recording of farting sounds," McRae says. "We only hired people who had been class clowns, who couldn't get jobs anywhere else. We served food in buckets and the placemats were torn-off butcher paper — things you couldn't get away with now."

    closings
    news/restaurants-bars
    series/dtx-good-eats-2012

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