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    Brisket for Days

    5 best barbecue bites from TMBBQ Fest 2014

    Tom Thornton
    Tom Thornton
    Sep 15, 2014 | 3:43 pm

    There were two huge lines at Texas Monthly's 2014 TMBBQ Festival in Austin on Sunday. The first was a queue of fans lined up for the general admission entry; the other held a throng of VIP ticket holders who had already filled up the Franklin Barbecue line.

    Yes, even fancy curated festivals have a Franklin line.

    However, because Franklin was in the company of so many great pitmasters, guests could pass him up and not feel cheated. (Not many did, though.) As Dale Watson played a lively set on the lawn, 'cue enthusiasts consulted their maps and made haste for the magazine's top tier of barbecue: Pecan Lodge, Louie Mueller, Franklin and Snow's were all in attendance.

    The spirit of friendly rivalry showed strongly in the food. These are our picks for best bites at the fest:

    Pecan Lodge(Dallas)
    Sometimes the simple plates are the best ones. Pecan Lodge has done off-menu specials in prior years but dialed in on brisket (both fatty and lean) for this year. The results were phenomenal: Our cut had perfect fat and great moistness, and while it teetered just on the edge of the done side, it was an undisputed work of greatness. The first family of Dallas barbecue showed that the hype is still well-deserved.

    La Barbecue (Austin)
    Perhaps it was the home-field advantage, but La Barbecue's trifecta of lean brisket, fatty brisket and pulled pork showed how good the joint has become. All three meats were superb. The brisket had a beautifully rendered fat and was simply flawless; even the lean piece was packed with flavor.

    The pulled pork was moist and had both a great vinegar tang and some bits of delicious fat in the mix. It's no wonder that the legend (and line) continues to grow as John Lewis, Ali Clem and their team keep producing otherworldly meats.

    Miller's Smokehouse (Belton)
    Miller's brisket had the best crust of any we tried. When we asked how they did it, co-owner Dusty Miller produced a jar of dry rub composed of salt, paprika, sugar, garlic, onion, celery and turmeric. It was cooked perfectly. He also said the smokehouse prefers the Central Texas German style of 'cue, and the craft was evident.

    Lamberts Downtown Barbecue (Austin)
    Lamberts did an excellent, traditional three-meat plate. We particularly enjoyed the vinegar-heavy pulled pork, which (along with La Barbecue) was the best version we ate at the event. The star of the table, though, was chef de cuisine Reid Guess' whole Black Angus short rib with a cilantro and scallion slaw topped with Red Boat fish sauce.

    The dish was the biggest surprise of the festival, and both the sauce and the slaw highlighted the meat. The crunch of the slaw helped reset one's palate for the dish, which was no easy feat at this meaty event. Guess said he brought the dish because it was a crowd favorite from the current Lamberts menu.

    "Whenever we sell the first one of the night, we almost immediately get 10 more orders. People see the dish and the color and texture, and then every table orders one."

    Hutchins BBQ(McKinney)
    When we complimented Tim Hutchins on the restaurant's jalapeño sausage, he said the secrets were simple. "We use 60 percent beef, which we get from our trimmings, and 40 percent pork butts. Then we throw in fresh jalapeño. The only trick is doing it fresh daily instead of in bigger batches."

    The resulting sausage somehow balanced spice, smokiness and cheese with great snap and a distinct point of view. Hutchins also served a sweet treatment on the St. Louis rib that was an excellent version of that style.

    Honorable Mentions

    Lockhart Smokehouse (Dallas)
    Lockhart Smokehouse scored high for creativity in presentation. Rather than doing a standard plate, the restaurant doled out boats of various single and double meat combos and let diners pick what they wished to sample. The variety of products on offer was great (there was smoked pig's head), and everything we sampled was first-rate.

    Buzzie's (Kerrville)
    In a field full of talented newcomers, Buzzie's brought out the best all-around, old-school barbecue plate. Nothing was showy, but everything was flavorful, moist and done with care. It was impressive enough on the whole to make a trip to Kerrville advisable.

    It's worth noting that these were our favorites, but opinions varied. With so much to eat and limited stomach space, each guest invariably sampled a different selection of dishes.

    Although we sampled roughly half of the offerings, there was simply no way to get through it all. As such, we missed Franklin (due to the line), Stiles Switch, Opie's, Black's and some other great 'cue because we'd reached our limit. But there's always next year.

    Pecan Lodge brisket was a hit at the 2014 TMBBQ Fest.

    Brisket at Pecan Lodge in Dallas
      
    Photo by Tadd Myers
    Pecan Lodge brisket was a hit at the 2014 TMBBQ Fest.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Bread News

    Award-winning Dallas bakery scores storefront in Oak Cliff mixed use

    Teresa Gubbins
    May 13, 2025 | 6:07 pm
    Kuluntu bread
    Photo courtesy of Kuluntu
    Kuluntu bread

    One of Dallas' best bakeries is graduating to a new location: Kuluntu Bakery, which currently operates as a cottage bakery in Oak Cliff, is moving into the East Dock, the innovative new mixed-use hub at 900 E. Clarendon Dr. near the Dallas Zoo and Halperin Park.

    Founded in 2018, Kuluntu is the cottage food bakery that has been selling breads and pastries from an Oak Cliff home. Despite not having a brick-and-mortar location, the bakery has racked up numerous awards including an impressive ranking on a Food & Wine list of the Best Breads in Every State, a 2023 nomination for a James Beard Award, and a CultureMap Tastemaker Awards nomination for co-founder Stephanie Leichtle-Chalklen for Best Pastry Chef.

    And now they will have a brick-and-mortar location.

    Their current menu changes weekly, with breads such as country sour and lemon-lavender-walnut sour; their signature granola; cinnamon rolls; and pastries such as almond & lemon croissant, cheesy artichoke galette, and salted rye chocolate chip cookies. They send out an email to subscribers every week listing the latest offerings. (To get on the list, email kuluntu@kuluntubakery.org.)

    "At the new location, we will be expanding the menu quite a bit," Leichtle-Chalken says. "It will include items that we’re currently baking plus South African dishes for lunch service."

    They're hoping to be open by the end of the year, and once they do open, they'll close down the cottage operation.

    But Leichtle-Chalklen says this new location will be more than a bakery — it will be a community hub that centers women’s experiences and builds collective power through education, health & wellness, and equity initiatives.

    She already operates Kuluntu as a non-profit, with a goal of co-creating a more equitable food system and community by connecting the food industry, consumers, and partners to center women and humanize all food workers.

    Sustainability and taking care of the planet is a practice that threads throughout their organization: whether that's using Barton Springs Mill organic flours and Cedar Ridge Egg Farm free-range eggs, or whether it's following zero-waste baking by recycling, composting, and using environmentally friendly packaging.

    East DockEast Dock Courtesy rendering

    They'll fit right in at East Dock, a former industrial building that was built in 1915 and is being thoughtfully refurbished with a goal of creating an 18-hour campus: coffee in the morning, daytime operators such as offices, studios, and restaurants, then bars and entertainment at night.

    On July 12, Kuluntu will host "Reimagining an Inclusive Restaurant in Dallas," where attendees can learn about the lived experiences of women food workers and how we can humanize the food system, as well as re-imagine what an equitable and inclusive restaurant could be — sharing your experiences, ideas, and perspectives to shape Kuluntu Bakery into a true community space for all. Pastries and beverages will be included.

    The session will take place at East Dock, allowing a preview of the site which will be under active construction. Get tickets here.

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