Restaurant Law

Four Seasons Dallas hotel chucks fine dining to lay down the Law

Four Seasons Dallas hotel chucks fine dining to lay down the Law

Law, Four Seasons
New restaurant at Four Seasons in Las Colinas trumpets a Texas theme. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons

The Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas has unveiled a new casual restaurant that replaces the long-running, fine-dining spot Cafe on the Green. The new concept is called Law — an acronym for land, air, and water — and it debuts in April 2016.

Opened in 1986, the Four Seasons has long been one of area's top luxury hotels, with its adjoining golf, tennis, and spa resort, and its hosting of the annual Byron Nelson Championship golf tournament. Cafe on the Green, one of five dining options at the hotel, always earned high marks.

But life is a struggle for hotel restaurants, and fine dining is on the wane. Having a Groupon is never a good sign.

A release describes Law's menu as having "nostalgic favorites" such as tomahawk bone-in rib-eye, BBQ Berkshire pork rib tower, Wagyu flank steak, Shiner Bock and sweet onion soup, whole beer can chicken, stuffed quail with chorizo-cornbread waffle, redfish, grits, and tomato-burrata salad.

Desserts listed in the release include bourbon bread pudding and "bitter chocolate molten cake, among other Texas classics." What is Texan about chocolate lava cake? Pretty sure that was invented by New York chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten about 20 years ago.

Chef de cuisine is Jonathan Rivera, a Four Seasons veteran, who has been with the hotel since 2003. Master Sommelier James Tidwell's wine program includes Texas wines such as Brennan Vineyards Viognier, Pedernales Tempranillo, Kiepersol Estates Vineyards Merlot, and Fall Creek Meritus.

Executive chef Christof Syré says the writing was on the wall for Cafe on the Green.

"The culinary team knew we needed a fresh new concept that met the needs of our community, thus we began the process of a complete restaurant transformation," he says.

The restaurant boasts "Texas chic" environment with dark hardwood floors, leather, and suede, in a palette of neutrals, camel, and mahogany. Custom lighting, Texas artwork, wall décor, and furnishings complement the design. Two private dining rooms seat up to 16, and a show kitchen can be reserved for private cooking classes.

As befits a hotel restaurant, Law will be open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch, dinner, plus Sunday brunch.