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The Farmer Diaries

Texas farmer uses native flowers to lure in pest-fighting menagerie

Marshall Hinsley
Apr 27, 2014 | 6:00 am

Last year, hoping to dress up the appearance of some metal buildings on my property, I planted some native Texas perennial flowers — and unwittingly ended up with my most successful garden ever.

I expected that their blooms would attract pollinators, and that came true. They provided a continuous supply of flowers that attracted bumblebees, hawk moths, hummingbirds and butterflies, who would then venture over to my raised beds and pollinate my crops.

But they also attracted a menagerie of other beneficial creatures that helped eliminate one of the most persistent threats to my tomato plants.

The first time I saw a wasp land on a kale plant, grab a caterpillar and drag it away, I realized I had a new pest control ally.

First, there were the paper wasps. Lured in by the nectar, the wasps found my new landscaping a suitable place to rear their young. They formed their papier-mache nests under picnic tables and among tree branches.

Adult wasps feed on nectar, but young wasps require protein, so the adults went to my crops to find an obvious source: caterpillars. The first time I saw a wasp land on a kale plant, grab a caterpillar and drag it away, I realized I had a new pest control ally. The wasp is as beneficial to the farmer as the ladybug.

Second, hover flies appeared in my garden for the first time that I've noticed. Sporting iridescent, transparent wings, these small insects look like a cross between a bee and a fly. Capable of hovering over flowers, they're important pollinators, drawn in by the beckoning native flowers.

Their young have a voracious appetite for aphids and caterpillars. It's hard to be a caterpillar in an organic garden.

There were other beneficial insects new to the garden that I'd not seen enough before to count on, such as assassin bugs and lacewings. I surmise that more have been attracted that I have yet to identify, and more will come this year as the plants become established.

The native perennials also provided a home to native toads. Dense foliage over thick mulch creates the perfect daytime hideout for these amphibious garden allies, and I welcomed the new residents.

During the day, I'd bump into them, sitting in the shade of the landscaping and waiting out the heat. At dusk, while completing my watering chores, I'd spot them ready to spend the night gorging on whatever was too slow to crawl away from their rapid-fire tongues.

But the major gardening benefit was the elimination of the tomato horn worm. Anyone who's seen the infamous horn worm does not soon forget the sight.

Most years, I lose tomato plants to horn worms. But they have found something better: sacred datura plants.

About the size of a breakfast link, tomato horn worms are composed of about a half dozen green, pudgy segments, each with a pair of legs. Their horn is at the tail, not the head. They can strip down a tomato plant to a bare stalk in just a few days.

Most years, I lose a tomato plant or two to the worms; last year, not a single plant was lost.

The reason: The fat little guys found something better: sacred datura plants. At night, these relatives of tomatoes produce huge blooms the size of a dinner plate. Their fragrance is inescapable, even 100 yards away.

Apparently, when horn worms have the choice between tomatoes and native datura, they choose the datura. They ate it to the ground, just as they would a tomato plant. And because the datura and the worm are a natural pair in the same ecosystem, the datura bounced right back with new shoots and leaves, more dense and healthy than before.

Although their appetite for tomato plants can be destructive, horn worms transform into moths that look, fly and feed just like hummingbirds, making them potentially important pollinators that shouldn't be killed. Datura in the landscape is the solution to the dilemma between crop protection and species protection.

Building on the success I've had with my native Texas perennials, I've decided to expand the planting area. Pests don't bother them, and they require almost no maintenance. I watered them three or four times throughout the whole summer, and this was in their first year, before they were fully established.

They save water and are prettier than the exotic, tropical landscaping plants you might buy that need weekly deluges. These are my favorites so far:

  • Texas lantana. Golden flowers top this shrubby plant that grows back year after year from the roots. Herds of butterflies hang out on them all day.
  • Salvia greggi. There are many salvias, but salvia greggi is a Lone Star evergreen that flowers all summer and addicts hummingbirds to its nectar.
  • Texas coral honeysuckle. Vibrant blooms decorate the dark green foliage of a plant that can either grow as a vine or bush. When its trumpet-shaped flowers open, it becomes a natural hummingbird feeder, without the need for a daily cleaning.
  • Pink guara. If a small water feature spurted up dark green water tipped with pink droplets, it would look like pink guara. As anything that flowers does, it attracts everything that's beautiful among birds and insects.
  • Sacred datura. Massive blooms open up each night as the sun sets; the unfurling of the flowers happens fast enough to watch, if you're patient. I've actually tried to watch the flower open, gotten up to get a snack, and returned minutes later to find that I missed the show. I always imagine that the flowers taste like marshmallows, but the whole plant is poisonous if eaten.
  • Flame acanthus. Just as summer starts getting old with nothing left to show for the year, flame ancanthus bursts out with red blossoms, flowering when little else does.
  • Frog fruit. Creates a carpet of green that never needs to be mowed. Its flowers are almost undetectable, but the butterflies landing everywhere on it are a sight to see.
  • Milkweed. Essential for the survival of the monarch butterfly, a major pollinator. Conventional farming's use of weed killer has put this plant —and therefore the butterfly — in peril. It's not easily transplanted, but it can be sown from seed sown in the winter.

These plants have boosted my garden's natural ecosystem and helped get the upper hand on pests. They've also given me the chance to get close to toads, birds, bees, butterflies and droves of other wild creatures that enrich my life in countless ways.

A monarch butterfly caterpillar feeds on milkweed near Marshall Hinsley's organic garden.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
A monarch butterfly caterpillar feeds on milkweed near Marshall Hinsley's organic garden.
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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

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This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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