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    Chef News

    Dallas Mexican restaurant Tulum comes back from COVID-19 swinging

    Teresa Gubbins
    Nov 4, 2020 | 7:02 pm
    Salmon
    Salmon with molcajete sauce and roasted vegetables, now at Tulum.
    Photo courtesy of Tulum

    Dallas restaurant Tulum, known for its upscale traditional Mexican food, has reopened following the COVID-19 closure with a splash: Namely, a new menu by José Meza, the acclaimed chef who previously worked at Jalisco Norte.

    Tulum reopens at the Shops of Highland Park at 4216 Oak Lawn Ave. on November 4, following an eight-month closure, in a direction that's unique. While many restaurants are turning to comfort food, Tulum is going upscale and creative with seasonal ingredients and innovative combinations — just the thing if you've had it up to here with Nashville hot chicken and are craving a chef-driven experience.

    Highlights include Yucatan pork cochinita pibil-style, and flat-iron steak that they cook sous vide-style for 72 hours, served with charred eggplant purée and Brussels sprouts. A separate happy hour menu features Mexican-inspired bites and specially-priced cocktails, such as the Meza margarita made with a coconut essence.

    Meza says the menu is based in tradition and heritage. A native of Mexico, his career began in his teens when he worked at Michelin three-starred restaurant Martin Berasategui in San Sebastian, Spain. He cooked at Moxi at the Hotel Matilda, San Miguel de Allende; the St. Regis Punta Mita; and Ramona at Hotel Nizuc in Cancun. He also interned at Noma, the world-famous gastronomic mecca in Copenhagen.

    "My mission is to exemplify just how memorable Mexican cuisine can be," he says. "Dishes can be completely different, but when you close your eyes, you immediately recognize their heritage."

    The menu includes:

    • "Sikil pak," a Creole spin on a Mayan pumpkinseed dip with heirloom corn tostada
    • Avocado purée, like a super creamy guacamole with roasted ginger, radish, and pumpkin seeds
    • Aguachile scallops, featuring raw scallops in a coconut-lemon grass aguachile with jicama
    • Vegan tartar, made from roasted beets, eggplant, dried tomato, sprinkled with pumpkin seeds and capers
    • Caesar salad, a grilled Romaine heart with smoked anchovy salt, parmesan cheese, and garlic chips
    • Octopus in a zarandeado sauce with black bean purée, kohlrabi slaw, and toreado (blistered) onion
    • Red snapper with green pipian sauce, topped with "shredded" broccoli

    Desserts are notable including a sweet plantain tamale and an unusual ice cream sandwich with coconut cookies enclosing a filling of sweet corn ice cream.

    Cocktails include an extra smoky Familia de agave margarita and "pasiflora 75," their version of a French 75 featuring a purple passionflower.

    Tulum debuted in 2018 in the space formerly occupied by Madrina as an homage to Tulum, Mexico by restaurateur Mike Karns, head of Local Favorite (El Fenix, Snuffer's Restaurant & Bar, Village Burger Bar, Meso Maya, Taqueria La Ventana), who said that he and his wife Valerie loved to visit there. Very much a passion project.

    In March 2020, Karns acquired Jalisco Norte, an upscale Mexican restaurant also on Oak Lawn Avenue that was founded by restaurateur Tim McEneny, who brought Meza to Dallas to serve as chef. One week later, COVID-19 shut everything down. Meza stayed with the restaurant and is now giving Tulum a twirl.

    They're open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday, and reservations are recommended by calling 972-677-9747.

    "At the end of the day, it's about doing what I love and letting people enjoy it," Meza says.

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    Benedict News

    West End Dallas breakfast favorite Ellen's makes sudden comeback

    Teresa Gubbins
    May 20, 2026 | 3:12 pm
    Ellen's Southern Kitchen
    Ellen's
    Ellen's Southern Kitchen will return

    A beloved breakfast spot in downtown Dallas is making a surprise comeback: Ellen's Southern Kitchen, the all-day restaurant concept founded in Dallas in 2012, is reopening its original location in downtown's West End.

    According to founder Joe Groves, the restaurant, located at 1790 N. Record St., will open in June, following a "temporary" closure that lasted nearly two years.

    The restaurant will reopen with the same hours, menu, and down-to-earth personality, serving breakfast, brunch, and Southern comfort food such as chicken-fried steak, fried catfish, meatloaf, shrimp & grits, and macaroni & cheese.

    "We're still going to be the same — but better," Groves says. "We've kept the same management team, and we're thrilled that some of our waiters and bartenders and familiar faces are coming back. We're not taking anything for granted."

    Groves is a voluble sort who disappeared from public view, due to landlord lawsuits that have since been resolved.

    "There were two years of silence, we didn't know if we were going to be able to reopen or not," he says.

    Named in honor of Groves' mother, Ellen's made its debut in 2012 with a special focus on breakfast — pre-dating the explosion of breakfast-and-brunch concepts that have opened across DFW in recent years.

    Opening at time when the West End was on the upswing, Ellen's drew tourists, conventioneers, and downtown residents, with its menu of steak & eggs, migas, huevos rancheros, and Ellen's omelet with spinach, bacon, strawberries, mushrooms, and bleu cheese, served with toast and hash browns.

    Signature dishes include pancake pot pie, a layered creation with pancakes, maple cream sausage gravy, bacon, sausage, hash browns, scrambled eggs, and cheddar cheese; and benedicts in eight options including Cajun shrimp benedict and crab cake benedict.

    They were open for lunch and dinner hours as well, with a full bar. Groves' mischievous charm earned a following of its own, with stunts like his fearless 2018 run-in with the NRA in which he advocated for gun regulations during the organization's convention.

    Bolstered by their success in the West End, Groves and his partners Andrew Chooljian and Russell Mertz went into what Groves calls "aggressive expansion mode," opening locations in Casa Linda and Allen, with plans for more. Casa Linda remains open; Allen closed in 2023. (They also opened Jack Ruby's, a restaurant-bar in the West End, which is thriving.)

    But their momentum was derailed when one of their main financiers hit a wall. They closed the West End location temporarily, but the New York-based landlord at the time locked them out, spurring a domino effect with their other landlords, as well.

    The building at 1701 N. Market St. where Ellen's resides has since been acquired by Five Smooth Stones, the development company owned by Owen Hannay, a longtime proponent of the neighborhood. He's working with Groves and company to get it back open.

    "I've known Joe for a long time, and feel like Ellen's has always been such a great draw for the West End," Hannay says. "We're delighted that it's reopening and that we're able to get it going so quickly."

    Once Groves and his staff were able to get back inside the beloved location, they found a time capsule — a romantic concept but one that also called for updates to the furniture, AC, and kitchen gear.

    "After a couple years away, those holes in the upholstery became more obvious, and some of the kitchen equipment needed to be replaced," he says.

    Ellen's reopening will restore breakfast and brunch to the West End, and Groves says they also hope it will bring them back to where they started.

    "We have a big hole to dig out of — we want every vendor and individual we still owe to be fully paid," he says. "Reopening finally gives us hope for that."

    "Ellen is my mom, this is our home location, and I've always felt a personal connection to the West End," he says. "I want the legacy of Ellen's to continue."

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