Cane Rosso To the Burbs

Acclaimed pizzeria Cane Rosso to open fourth branch in very far north location

Cane Rosso pizzeria to open fourth branch in very far north location

The Bruno pizza at Cane Rosso in Fairview
Only available in Fairview: The Bruno pizza with house-made mozzarella, ricotta, bolognese sauce and wood-fired mushrooms. Cane Rosso Fairview/Facebook

Neapolitan-style pizza fans to the very, very, very far north of Dallas will no longer have to haul down 75. Acclaimed pizzeria Cane Rosso is opening a fourth location in Fairview, at the previously somewhat doomed-seeming Shops at Fairview.

Cane Rosso takes over the old Purple Cow space, and it is targeted to open in July.

Why Fairview? Owner Jay Jerrier explains that he has a longtime attachment to the area.

"It's a little known fact that Cane Rosso was born in our backyard when we used to live in Lucas," Jerrier says. "We built our first wood-burning oven there. The very first pizzas were made there. Our mobile catering oven was parked in my driveway for YEARS there. And my daughter Emma, now 11, still plays lacrosse here with all of her friends on the Lady Eagles."

Jerrier also says that he'd had his eye on Collin County for some time. "We have wanted to try a suburban model and finally found an economic model that made sense," he says.

Decent rent, one presumes, because Fairview has not been a great place to open a restaurant. But if anyone can turn that situation around, it is perhaps Cane Rosso.

This new branch joins a growing Cane Rosso stable with the original in Deep Ellum, a branch in White Rock Lake and a recently opened third branch in Fort Worth.

Jerrier says the space is about 3,500 square feet, a little smaller than the other locations. And, like those other locations, it'll have its own custom stove.

"Chef Dino Santonicola worked with oven-maker Stefano Ferrara to create a really unique oven for the space," Jerrier says. "I don't even know what it looks like yet!  I told them to surprise me."

The menu will be mostly the same, with pizzas that cook for just 75 seconds in a 900-degree oven fired with Texas oak. It seems likely that, as he has done with his other three branches, Jerrier will apply for accreditation with the Vera Pizza Napoletana organization, guaranteeing that pizzas are made to the standards established in Naples, Italy.

As he has done at previous Cane Rossos, Jerrier will offer a signature pizza for the location. This one is called the Bruno, with mozzarella, ricotta, bolognese sauce and wood-fired mushrooms.

But Fairview will also mesh in some culinary concepts developed at Zoli's NY Pizza Tavern, Jerrier's New York-style slice place in Oak Cliff.

"We're working on some special types of pizza for large groups," Jerrier says. "A la pala or 'metro,' similar to Gabrielle Bonci's Roman-style pizzas from Pizzarium. We're still tweaking the menu, but we have an extra deck oven we used for testing Zoli-style pies, and we are going to use it up in Fairview.

"We'll have our regular Neapolitan pizzas, of course, but we'll do these on the weekends in limited amounts, provided we can work out the recipes."

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