Tacos Downtown

Acclaimed Fort Worth taqueria brings authentic eats to downtown Dallas

A Fort Worth taqueria is headed east.

Photo by Malcolm Mayhew

A revered taqueria from Fort Worth is headed for Big D: Salsa Limón will open a branch in downtown Dallas in the historic Mayflower Building, at 411 N. Akard St.

The Mayflower is currently under renovation, with a plan to make it a mixed-use project with apartments, retail, and on-site parking. Salsa Limón owner Milo Ramirez says that the location was perfect for what they're about.

"We love the building, and think that Salsa Limón will work perfect there," he says. "It's in a great location, with high-rises all around, and Klyde Warren Park up the street. We're hoping to attract people who live and work in the area, but also the diehards who will drive down because they want a great taco."

Salsa Limón serves what it calls "un-apologetically Mexico City-style tacos," which are generous in size and include a range of fillings, from grilled steak and pork shoulder to garlic mashed potatoes and barbacoa. Another good option is a "molca bowl," a layered dip consisting of refried beans, Mexican rice, cabbage slaw, chips, and choice of meat. It's also known for its horchata drinks.

Among the taqueria's accolades was its inclusion on Texas Monthly's list of best tacos in the state, where it was lauded for its El Capitan taco, made with Oaxaca cheese and pickled cabbage, along with your choice of protein.

There are four branches, including one that attracted media attention when the entire restaurant was moved by Fort Worth's Historic and Cultural Landmarks Commission from its West Seventh location to White Settlement Road, to be part of the River District development along the Trinity River; that branch has not yet opened. It also has three food trucks.

Ramirez anticipates a February opening for the Dallas location. To prepare, he immersed himself by sub-leasing an apartment at the Interurban Building. "I wanted to understand what people living there need," he says.

The Dallas menu will be basically the same. "We're tweaking our pastor, but that's because we're always refining and improving what we do," he says.

The tripe taco has been the "star taco" since the first branch at La Gran Plaza in Fort Worth. "It's a more adventurous bite, but it has some authentic weight," he says. "We have a tripe that can kick ass in Mexico. You get it a little crunchy. It's a world-class tripe taco."

Ramirez says he likes to let the classics speak for themselves.

"You remember 10 years ago, everyone was talking about Korean tacos, and I said, 'Wait a minute — what about the traditional tacos that have been pleasing our population in Mexico for 400 years?"

tacos downtown

RIP Al

Beloved Dallas restaurateur Al Biernat dies at 69 after ALS battle

Dallas restaurateur Al Biernat, RIP

Beloved Dallas restaurateur Al Biernat, founder of the acclaimed local steakhouse Al Biernat's, passed away on November 13, following a battle with amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, also called ALS or Lou Gehrig’s disease; he was 69.

Biernat was one of Dallas' all-time great hospitality figures, dating back to his days at The Palm steakhouse, for whom he worked in Los Angeles, Houston, and Dallas.

Biernat founded his namesake restaurant in 1998 on Oak Lawn Avenue, where his standard of excellence and doting charm made it a destination for special occasions, Park Cities swells, and celebrities in town.

His sense of hospitality had little competition in Dallas. He was a charming and personable host who genuinely liked people, and it didn't matter whether you were Conan O'Brien, David Crosby, or one of the other high-profile diners that visited his restaurants — or else just a regular schlub: He had a knack for making everyone feel special and remembered.

Biernat was born on August 20, 1955 and grew up in Michigan, then lived in Colorado, New York, Los Angeles, and Houston, before moving to Dallas to work at The Palm in the West End, where his dynamic presence gave the restaurant an incomparable vitality; it closed in 2017.

He opened Al Biernat's at 4217 Oak Lawn Ave. in 1998, followed by a second location in North Dallas at 5251 Spring Valley Rd. in 2017.

He began to experience ALS symptoms in May 2023, was diagnosed in December, and revealed his condition in February 2024. The revelation was met with an outpouring of sympathy and well wishes from the hospitality industry — a sign of the high regard in which he was held.

The average life expectancy for people with ALS is two to five years after diagnosis. Symptoms can begin in the muscles that control speech and swallowing, or in the hands, arms, legs, or feet. He began to have difficulty communicating in September, and spent his last days in a hospice.

On September 18, he broached the topic of dying, before ending on a note of gratitude to friends and family.

"Having Bulbar ALS I am realistic about my future," he said. "Friends and family have asked me if I’m afraid of dying, and this is what I say to them. Because of the salvation of Jesus, I will be rejoicing in my spirit to see him in all of his glory. Since we are all flesh, soul, and spirit, only my flesh is being left behind. But don’t get me wrong, I have a blessed life in this world, with a loving wife, and a beautiful family and many wonderful and caring friends. I am grateful!"

Both Al Biernat's locations will continue to remain open under the management of Biernat's nephew Brad Fuller, as they have for nearly the past two years.

Biernat is survived by Fuller, as well as his wife Jeannie and three daughters: Angelica Saylor, Kaitlin Biernat Connell, and Jess Biernat, plus five grandsons and two granddaughters. . According to family members, details regarding a celebration of his life will be announced soon.

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