Smoke Up
Maple & Motor's Jack Perkins opens Slow Bone barbecue joint
It's a little later than the late-February opening date that Teresa Gubbins first reported. But Jack Perkins' new barbecue spot, Slow Bone, opens April 16 on Irving Boulevard, across from Off-Site Kitchen, near the Design District.
Slow Bone has all the staples of Texas barbecue, including the great debate starter: brisket. Perkins proved he has a knack for it when his brisket took top honors at last year's Meat Fight.
Perkins promises that Slow Bone will never run out of meat, thanks to a temperature-controlled rotisserie smoker that can hold up to 1,000 pounds. The hickory-fed smoker is automated to keep a consistent temperature during the 18-hour brisket cooking process.
Perkins promises that Slow Bone will never run out of meat, thanks to a temperature-controlled rotisserie smoker that can hold up to 1,000 pounds.
Slow Bone decided to skip the pulled pork and add what Perkins refers to as the "Ethel and Lucy" options of stuffed pork loin and smoked pork belly. Perkins also serves three types of sausage, including a jalapeño brat; baby back and St. Louis ribs; and chicken.
Perkins is doing a variety of sides that appeal to vegetarians, such as macaroni and cheese spiked with jalapeño and green chile, homemade green bean casserole with crispy onions, Brussels sprout and cauliflower au gratin, tomato and cucumber salad, fried okra, and pea salad. Other side dishes include mustard greens, pintos and pozole — which, yes, have meat.
There are also hushpuppies, cornbread and biscuits. The latter is a recipe from chef Jeffery Hobbs. Perkins plans to add other veggies to the menu, such as squash, when the produce comes in season. Soon he hopes to serve desserts like sheet cake and fried pies.
The cafeteria line set-up starts with old-school lunch trays from now-defunct Texas Ware. Perkins says the trays have special meaning to him, because his mom used to work for the Dallas-based company.
The Slow Bone seats 90 people, with optional seating in a back room for private events or overflow; Perkins expects the restaurant to function similarly to Maple & Motor, with its often-long line. Which is to say that the burger joint's "No sitting before ordering" rule will carry over to Slow Bone.
Because the location is in a dry section of town, the restaurant only serves beer, from a handful of taps and a large bottled selection.
The growing Trinity Strand Trail will eventually run behind the restaurant, and Perkins plans to build a large patio area to create what he calls "the Katy Trail Ice House of the area," but that won't happen for a while.