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The Farmer Diaries

North Texas organic farmer on winners and losers so far this year

Marshall Hinsley
May 26, 2013 | 6:00 am

From the day we enter first grade, we learn that we can pass or fail, and failure is not an option. This may be a good lesson for the corporate world but not the farm. Sure, we can water and fertilize our gardens, but the outcome is subject to a sort of natural lottery. Some crops will be winners, but others will be losers, no matter how hard we work.

The Hinsley Garden of 2013 is no exception. Here's my progress report:

THE WINNERS
Crops that have either started yielding or are only days away from doing so.

Wheat. I used to overlook grains. Those who grow wheat seem to grow it in huge amounts, so I assumed it wasn't worth the trouble for someone like me who isn't a land baron. But I'm giving it a try by growing a 32-square-foot test plot.

It's non-GMO, tall, unaffected by pests and full of ripening grain. So far, it's looking like a winner for a larger plot next year. As for yield, Sara Pizer, author of Homegrown Whole Grains, shows how to grow enough wheat for a year's worth of bread in a space no larger than a typical two-car garage.

Tomatoes. I have 15 varieties growing, such as yellow pear; cherry; and my favorite arid producers, Texas wild and Nichols. All plants are looking lush and green with maturing fruit.

Potatoes. Growing in large, plastic containers. Container-grown new potatoes are easier to harvest than potatoes grown in North Texas' black, clay soil. The container method failed when I tried it last year. So far this year, I can see the new potatoes just under the surface of the soil and looking delicious. Sometimes you lose the crop lottery; sometimes you win.

Carrots. I have an acquaintance who was so traumatized by a carrot crop failure when he was a child that he never attempted to grow them again. My word to you, sir: Give them another chance. They are effortless. My first success with carrots was in my test plot last year; this year, I expanded their allotted area. I may never buy store-bought carrots again!

Sweet peas. I once skipped school to plant these. Later that day, my best friend called to ask if I had heard that the space shuttle had exploded on takeoff. For all future scheduled launches, I made sure not to plant sweet peas on the same day. Wando is best for growing here, and the home improvement stores always sell the wrong variety.

Greens. Swiss chard, kale and collard greens are all doing well. In fact, I netted $75 in sales of my surplus a couple of weeks ago. Not quitting my day job yet, but it was a nice infusion of pocket money.

Sunflowers. They're bursting forth with beautiful flowers to be followed by fresh, organic bird seed.

Onions and garlic. One-and-a-half raised beds will supply all my needs for about a year. (That's an onion and garlic clove a week.) The onions growing in the field will amount to about a car payment or two, if I can keep my father from giving them away.

Beets. Easy to grow. Nothing to show off here.

Cilantro. It's growing from seed planted this year and from seed that fell from mature plants last year, when it's known as coriander. As easy to grow as a weed. No one should ever have to buy cilantro – NO ONE!

Borage. I always thought that borage would be hard to grow. Man, was I wrong! The flowers are edible and indeed taste like cucumbers, just like the garden books say.

THE LOSERS
Crops that will not yield this year.

Lettuce. It was looking beautiful, then it bolted while caterpillars munched it down to nothing. What I've been able to salvage tastes delicious, but I have to put lettuce down as a failure.

Amaranth. Never even sprouted.

Sorghum. Nope, not even a sprout.

Basil. Success with basil in the past pushed me to expand my space for it this year; oh, the hubris. I planted lettuce basil, purple basil, classic basil, lime and lemon basil. Only one or two seeds each even sprouted — again, the lottery.

Fortunately, I had more success with the same varieties that I started indoors for transplanting, so not all is lost. I'll see whether or not these transplants save the day.

TOO EARLY TO TELL
These crops could pass or fail. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Okra. I may have planted okra too early, lulled into a false security by March's early warmth. None of it has sprouted. I replanted it last week. We'll see.

Beans. Planted in early March, pinto beans, soy beans and black-eyed peas all sprouted, then just sat in the soil at about two inches tall instead of flourishing into bushy plants full of bean pods. This was a clear sign of poor rainfall, and the fields are too large to irrigate. Maybe rainfall in May will shape them up.

Watermelon. Sugar Baby watermelons fulfilled all my watermelon desires last year. This year, the vines are growing slowly with no sign of flowering.

Cantaloupe. The vines are robust, but I've heard this tune before. You never know if it's a good year for cantaloupe until you're tired of eating them.

Squash. They look nice, but some have only just now sprouted, while others are becoming mature bushes. Squash can look outstanding one day, like the picture on the seed packet, and be dead on the ground the next. So, with squash and zucchini, success is only evident in hindsight.

Cotton. Not a food crop but interesting to grow with beautiful hibiscus-like flowers. I just want to be able to grow it for maybe phase two of my self-sufficiency attempt. It grew well last year, but this year, if it doesn't sprout in the next week, it will go down as a failure.

Peppers. Sweet green peppers, habanero, jalepeño and Hungarian hot wax are all planted, growing slowly and nowhere near bearing fruit. I've seen friends posting photos of their pepper harvests on Facebook. I need to learn their secret.

Cucumbers. The sprouts look nice. Sprouts are not cucumbers.

Chives. Supposedly chives are easy to grow and good for getting children interested in gardening, sort of a sure bet for them. Apparently, I need a child. I see a few sprouts that haven't done much yet. Maybe the heat will help them as summer approaches.

Pole beans. They're lush and green. The proof is in the bean pods, which have yet to appear.

FUTURE BETS
In addition to annual crops, I've planted mulberry trees and native plum trees, but they are several years from bearing fruit. There are also native blackberry plants growing wild on the land, and their fruit is delicious and just about to ripen for this year. But we leave it for the wildlife except for a few handfuls.

We also have some fig trees that are slowly growing along with pear trees. Drought has delayed their maturity, but they are surviving, which itself is a promising sign.

Crop losers aside, my declaration of food independence and dedication to opt out of industrialized agriculture is proceeding well, so long as I eat what's available from the garden and wait on whatever will be available soon. There's a certain appreciation that I've gained for tomatoes and cucumbers and everything else by not always having access to them. Eating what's in season when it's in season does that.

Still, I'll always depend on the market to bring me organic avocados and bananas and a few other essentials that can't grow in North Texas. But having a source for my own organic, sustainably produced fruits and vegetables is very satisfying. One day, it may be my main source of income, even if for now it seems like a gamble.

A butterfly drinks nectar from a cilantro flower.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
A butterfly drinks nectar from a cilantro flower.
unspecified
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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

---

This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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