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The Farmer Diaries

North Texas organic farmer on winners and losers so far this year

Marshall Hinsley
May 26, 2013 | 6:00 am

From the day we enter first grade, we learn that we can pass or fail, and failure is not an option. This may be a good lesson for the corporate world but not the farm. Sure, we can water and fertilize our gardens, but the outcome is subject to a sort of natural lottery. Some crops will be winners, but others will be losers, no matter how hard we work.

The Hinsley Garden of 2013 is no exception. Here's my progress report:

THE WINNERS
Crops that have either started yielding or are only days away from doing so.

Wheat. I used to overlook grains. Those who grow wheat seem to grow it in huge amounts, so I assumed it wasn't worth the trouble for someone like me who isn't a land baron. But I'm giving it a try by growing a 32-square-foot test plot.

It's non-GMO, tall, unaffected by pests and full of ripening grain. So far, it's looking like a winner for a larger plot next year. As for yield, Sara Pizer, author of Homegrown Whole Grains, shows how to grow enough wheat for a year's worth of bread in a space no larger than a typical two-car garage.

Tomatoes. I have 15 varieties growing, such as yellow pear; cherry; and my favorite arid producers, Texas wild and Nichols. All plants are looking lush and green with maturing fruit.

Potatoes. Growing in large, plastic containers. Container-grown new potatoes are easier to harvest than potatoes grown in North Texas' black, clay soil. The container method failed when I tried it last year. So far this year, I can see the new potatoes just under the surface of the soil and looking delicious. Sometimes you lose the crop lottery; sometimes you win.

Carrots. I have an acquaintance who was so traumatized by a carrot crop failure when he was a child that he never attempted to grow them again. My word to you, sir: Give them another chance. They are effortless. My first success with carrots was in my test plot last year; this year, I expanded their allotted area. I may never buy store-bought carrots again!

Sweet peas. I once skipped school to plant these. Later that day, my best friend called to ask if I had heard that the space shuttle had exploded on takeoff. For all future scheduled launches, I made sure not to plant sweet peas on the same day. Wando is best for growing here, and the home improvement stores always sell the wrong variety.

Greens. Swiss chard, kale and collard greens are all doing well. In fact, I netted $75 in sales of my surplus a couple of weeks ago. Not quitting my day job yet, but it was a nice infusion of pocket money.

Sunflowers. They're bursting forth with beautiful flowers to be followed by fresh, organic bird seed.

Onions and garlic. One-and-a-half raised beds will supply all my needs for about a year. (That's an onion and garlic clove a week.) The onions growing in the field will amount to about a car payment or two, if I can keep my father from giving them away.

Beets. Easy to grow. Nothing to show off here.

Cilantro. It's growing from seed planted this year and from seed that fell from mature plants last year, when it's known as coriander. As easy to grow as a weed. No one should ever have to buy cilantro – NO ONE!

Borage. I always thought that borage would be hard to grow. Man, was I wrong! The flowers are edible and indeed taste like cucumbers, just like the garden books say.

THE LOSERS
Crops that will not yield this year.

Lettuce. It was looking beautiful, then it bolted while caterpillars munched it down to nothing. What I've been able to salvage tastes delicious, but I have to put lettuce down as a failure.

Amaranth. Never even sprouted.

Sorghum. Nope, not even a sprout.

Basil. Success with basil in the past pushed me to expand my space for it this year; oh, the hubris. I planted lettuce basil, purple basil, classic basil, lime and lemon basil. Only one or two seeds each even sprouted — again, the lottery.

Fortunately, I had more success with the same varieties that I started indoors for transplanting, so not all is lost. I'll see whether or not these transplants save the day.

TOO EARLY TO TELL
These crops could pass or fail. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Okra. I may have planted okra too early, lulled into a false security by March's early warmth. None of it has sprouted. I replanted it last week. We'll see.

Beans. Planted in early March, pinto beans, soy beans and black-eyed peas all sprouted, then just sat in the soil at about two inches tall instead of flourishing into bushy plants full of bean pods. This was a clear sign of poor rainfall, and the fields are too large to irrigate. Maybe rainfall in May will shape them up.

Watermelon. Sugar Baby watermelons fulfilled all my watermelon desires last year. This year, the vines are growing slowly with no sign of flowering.

Cantaloupe. The vines are robust, but I've heard this tune before. You never know if it's a good year for cantaloupe until you're tired of eating them.

Squash. They look nice, but some have only just now sprouted, while others are becoming mature bushes. Squash can look outstanding one day, like the picture on the seed packet, and be dead on the ground the next. So, with squash and zucchini, success is only evident in hindsight.

Cotton. Not a food crop but interesting to grow with beautiful hibiscus-like flowers. I just want to be able to grow it for maybe phase two of my self-sufficiency attempt. It grew well last year, but this year, if it doesn't sprout in the next week, it will go down as a failure.

Peppers. Sweet green peppers, habanero, jalepeño and Hungarian hot wax are all planted, growing slowly and nowhere near bearing fruit. I've seen friends posting photos of their pepper harvests on Facebook. I need to learn their secret.

Cucumbers. The sprouts look nice. Sprouts are not cucumbers.

Chives. Supposedly chives are easy to grow and good for getting children interested in gardening, sort of a sure bet for them. Apparently, I need a child. I see a few sprouts that haven't done much yet. Maybe the heat will help them as summer approaches.

Pole beans. They're lush and green. The proof is in the bean pods, which have yet to appear.

FUTURE BETS
In addition to annual crops, I've planted mulberry trees and native plum trees, but they are several years from bearing fruit. There are also native blackberry plants growing wild on the land, and their fruit is delicious and just about to ripen for this year. But we leave it for the wildlife except for a few handfuls.

We also have some fig trees that are slowly growing along with pear trees. Drought has delayed their maturity, but they are surviving, which itself is a promising sign.

Crop losers aside, my declaration of food independence and dedication to opt out of industrialized agriculture is proceeding well, so long as I eat what's available from the garden and wait on whatever will be available soon. There's a certain appreciation that I've gained for tomatoes and cucumbers and everything else by not always having access to them. Eating what's in season when it's in season does that.

Still, I'll always depend on the market to bring me organic avocados and bananas and a few other essentials that can't grow in North Texas. But having a source for my own organic, sustainably produced fruits and vegetables is very satisfying. One day, it may be my main source of income, even if for now it seems like a gamble.

A butterfly drinks nectar from a cilantro flower.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
A butterfly drinks nectar from a cilantro flower.
unspecified
news/restaurants-bars

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Spring Arrival

West Dallas gets new Spanish-Peruvian restaurant with big-name chef

Luciana Gomez
Sep 18, 2026 | 4:27 pm
Ulloa's
Photo courtesy of Ulloa's
Paella will be on the menu.

A new restaurant with a high-profile culinary director will bring Spanish and Peruvian flavors to West Dallas: Called Ulloa’s, it is coming to 727 Fort Worth Ave., with a projected opening in March 2027.

The concept is from philanthropists Susan and Woodrow Gandy, who were previously investors in the historic Belmont Hotel just around the corner. They've teamed up with Dallas celebrity chef Kent Rathbun as culinary director, along with Christopher Tunnell as general manager to lead the front of the house.

Rathbun is a name Dallas diners know well, with a resume that includes The Mansion on Turtle Creek, the Landmark Restaurant at the historic Melrose Hotel, Seventeen Seventeen at the Dallas Museum of Art, Abacus, Jasper's, Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, and more. He's won numerous awards and made multiple appearances on Food Network. He was most recently behind the launch of On The Rocks, an Italian bistro in Burleson.

Kent Rathbun Chef Kent Rathbun will be the culinary director of Ulloa's. Photo courtesy of Kent Rathbun

Tunnell’s background spans both culinary direction and front-of-house operations. He worked at Los Angeles hot spots Ketchup, Geisha House, and Les Deux, as well as the Mandalay Bay and The Mirage in Las Vegas, before moving to Dallas to open The Mexican, the upscale restaurant in the Design District.

“I am truly excited to partner with Chef Kent Rathbun, whose reputation is amazing — not only in the DFW Metroplex, but in the culinary world,” Tunnell says. “He has been with this project since the beginning, helping develop it; this will be a very chef-driven, culinary-forward restaurant.”

The team's vision for Ulloa’s is both culinary and urban, with hopes of anchoring the corridor and attracting other businesses to Fort Worth Avenue — a stretch connecting downtown Dallas with Oak Cliff that remains somewhat underdeveloped despite its panoramic skyline views.

The restaurant is named for Spanish explorer, astronomer, and scientist Antonio de Ulloa, who spent extensive time in the Mexican peninsula before becoming Louisiana’s first governor. During his travels, Ulloa documented a fogbow — a circular rainbow formed when sunlight meets mist that causes silhouettes standing between the sun and fog to appear ringed in light, a phenomenon known today as “Ulloa’s Rings.”

That vibrant phenomenon inspired both the restaurant's identity and logo. The concept promises "bold, worldly flavors in a welcoming neighborhood setting inspired by exploration and discovery,” the owners say.

Ulloa's Rendering of Ulloa's.Rendering courtesy of Ulloa's

While the menu remains in development, Tunnell describes the culinary direction as “Spanish soul with a Peruvian heart.” The kitchen will merge the coastal flavors of both traditions — ranging from paellas and ceviches to crafted cocktails and signature adaptations by Rathbun.

The 200-seat, two-story space will feature a downstairs dining room, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. Upstairs, plans call for a secondary bar, a private dining room, a patio, and an expansive balcony patio, offering views of the city's skyline and of the Margaret Hunt Hill and Margaret McDermott bridges.

While the upstairs space will be available for private events, the owners intend for it to operate primarily as an organic extension of the main restaurant. The buildout will include a guest elevator along with ample parking, including both self-parking and valet options.

The team says the restaurant will have have an aesthetic that's “warm, theatrical, generous, elegant but alive, with the energy of a great Spanish tapas bar and the soul of Peruvian hospitality.”

Ulloa’s plans to launch with dinner service first, followed by lunch and weekend brunch.

restaurants bars peruvian flavors west dallas oak cliff kent rathbun
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