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The Farmer Diaries

Texas farmer reaps life lessons from his tomato plants

Marshall Hinsley
Jun 22, 2014 | 6:00 am

I enjoy growing my own food, not only for the harvest, but also for the things it teaches me about dealing with the challenges of life.

With dreams of a perfect, bountiful crop of tomatoes, I browsed for hours through seed catalogs last December. I bought seed for several varieties that work in my climate, and that I have learned do well under my care.

And so the journey began. In mid-January, I prepared a tub of soilless seed-starting medium. I filled 100 starter trays and sowed my tomato seeds in each cell. I watered them daily. Two weeks later, small, slender, olive green leaves poked up from the trays, representing the first sign of progress.

My tomato plants had died not from any single factor, but because I failed to give them what they needed to thrive, in the right balance.

I kept them indoors to protect them from the winter cold. I fed them nutrients at the right time, so they grew green and tall. I watched for gauzy webs on their leaves and branches, a sign of red spider mites that could take them down unless dealt with immediately.

In mid-March, I prepared the raised garden beds where I intended to plant the tomatoes. I weeded out winter grasses and worked compost and soil amendments into the soil.

Once springtime warmth displaced the chilly winter air, I began the hardening off process for the tender seedlings. Every morning for more than two weeks, I moved each of the 100 starter trays from out of the greenhouse onto a table outdoors. Each evening, I moved them back in.

By late March, with all the frosts and freezes for the season over, I transplanted the tomatoes seedlings. I watered them daily until their roots became established. I checked the weather daily to make sure that no late-season chill would threaten my work.

When a freeze was forecast, I took appropriate steps to protect them: covering each with a cardboard box weighted down with a concrete block. With all the bending and lifting, I seem to have hastened the progress of a condition that I was unaware was affecting my left eye. I had torn my retina. I was no longer free to attack my workload with my former vigor, just as there were more crops to plant.

My family stepped in to help me while I was healing. And while rainfall helped keep the soil moist, hand-watering was still frequently required. Invasive grasses popped up in the beds. Weeding them out was no small task. At some point, I had seen the leaves of a few plants turning yellow, but I dismissed it.

By the end of May, each plant was loaded with green tomatoes. My supply of delicious, vine-ripe tomatoes for the summer seemed almost unlimited.

Relationships between people must also be fed, watered and weeded with conscious intent to help them grow.

In June, I turned my attention to a fall crop of pumpkins. My commercial endeavor of growing specialty melons increasingly took time as well. As days passed, I walked by the tomato beds and noticed a few more tomato plants turning yellow. Some drooped toward the ground. I made a mental note to check on them later; I had more pressing matters that needed tending first.

A few days later, my tomato plants were nothing more than scrawny vines with brown leaves and immature fruit lying on the ground. How had this happened? They had died, but for no single reason that I can identify.

They were not riddled with pests, I'm almost certain. They were watered routinely, but maybe not sufficiently? The soil in which they grew was fertile, I think. As I inspected each plant, I could find no obvious cause of death.

In the end, I concluded that they had died not from any single factor, but because I failed to give them what they needed to thrive, in the right balance. Every season presents a new, unique set of challenges to face in keeping crops alive and healthy.

If rain is sparse, crops need irrigation. If soil is lean on nutrients, plants need supplemental fertilizer. Pest management is a never-ending task. If any of the factors is neglected, crops easily succumb to stress until they wither up and die.

When I mulled everything over in my mind after my disappointing discovery, I saw another example of how the gardening experience is an analogy to our lives. I regret to say that I've had friendships die, not because of a single wrong but because of a prolonged period of failing to give that relationship all it needs to thrive, whether it's acceptance, support, encouragement, patience, respect, trust, forgiveness, having something enjoyable in common or a similar purpose.

We can take for granted that the people we love will always be around and that our friendships are healthy and growing all on their own. But, in doing so, we run the risk of one day realizing that it's been a while since we've seen them, and they've moved on.

Relationships between people must be fed, watered and weeded with conscious intent to help them grow. Without the right balance of all the things they need, relationships die too, just like my tomato plants.

Thriving zinnias mask other crop losses in Marshall Hinsley's raised bed garden south of Dallas.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
Thriving zinnias mask other crop losses in Marshall Hinsley's raised bed garden south of Dallas.
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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

---

This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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