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The Farmer Diaries

Texas farmer finds that garlic grows down easy

Marshall Hinsley
Aug 25, 2013 | 6:00 am

A few years ago, I went out for a bike ride one spring day and discovered what seemed to be wild onions, growing along the country road near where I live. Mowers who'd been hired by the county were clearing off the tall grass. The air was filled with the smell of cut onions, more pungent than ordinary onions, maybe even gamy.

They were clustered in patches for about a hundred feet along the road, growing parallel to a creek called Little Onion Creek. I was fascinated by how the onions might have gotten there. All the evidence suggested that I had stumbled upon a part of the area's heritage and a rare type of onion that begged to be preserved.

I returned in late summer with a shovel to take a few specimens back to my house. I loaded up my cart with whatever onions I could uproot without disturbing the healthiest plants. Whenever I take a sample of plants from vacant home sites or natural habitats, I try to do so without damaging the stand of plants I've found. I started hauling the load back to my residence when my neighbor saw me and asked, "Is that my garlic?"

With one question, he destroyed my conjecture and identified what I had harvested. He explained that, years ago, a friend of his had thrown cloves of garlic into the ditch – cloves that rooted, grew, reproduced and spread year after year until they covered the ditch bank. They had nothing to do with the name of the creek and only dated back to the '90s – the 1990s, that is.

The economics of garlic are impressive: Every $3 bulb can produce up to $12 worth of harvested garlic.

I learned two lessons: First, wild speculation is no substitute for historical research. Second, garlic is easy to grow.

I now grow several varieties of garlic. The economics are impressive: Every $3 bulb can produce up to $12 worth of harvested garlic. As with every other crop, garlic is more flavorful when it's farm fresh and homegrown. The reason: The grocery store variety, known as California Early, is planted commercially for its ability to sit in storage for up to a year. What's gained in shelf life is lost in flavor and subtlety. Still, I plant California Early as a sure bet. Silver Rose is a mild garlic that must be eaten a few months after harvest; I plant it for its flavor and ability to produce monster bulbs that make me feel like a skilled grower.

This year, I will add a few more varieties from organic suppliers just to see what I like. I'll choose only softneck varieties; that's what we plant in in the lower half of the country. However, before I knew that hardnecks were for the north and softnecks for the south, I planted a bed of hardnecks without incident, and they did quite well, too.

Plant and forget
Everything about growing garlic is easy, as long as it gets a taste of all four seasons. I plant it in the first week of September so it can take root, send up its leaves and take hold before winter. Winter triggers its reproductive cycle. The following spring and summer finish the cycle up, so that they're ready to harvest by summertime, almost a year after they're planted. Unlike lettuce which is ready in six quick weeks, garlic requires patience.

To plant them, I take a bulb, break it into cloves and plant the cloves where they will get a full day of sunlight, no shade, just below the surface of the soil, with the root side down and the pointed rootless side up. The root side is usually rougher than any other side, so it's an easy find. They need about four inches of space in every direction. But a 4-foot by 8-foot bed can accommodate a year's worth of garlic for the average garlic eater. Aside from weeding and an occasional watering to keep the soil moist but not soggy, garlic can be forgotten, as my roadside discovery shows.

A few weeks after they're planted, they'll send up an attractive stalk that slowly adds several long narrow leaves until the plant reaches a foot high. Underground is where the neat stuff happens. Each clove will start adding more and more cloves to the plant so that when it's time to harvest the garlic, they'll have transformed into a veritable bulb just like the ones in the produce aisle.

Everything about growing garlic is easy, as long as it gets a taste of all four seasons.

In mid summer, I know they're ready to harvest because the stalky leaves start to turn yellow and bend over. Pulling each plant up from the ground by its stalk is not advisable; it almost always results in the stalk breaking off and the bulb staying underground. Instead, I use a garden trowel to lift the bulbs up with one hand while I hold the stalk in the other. Keeping them intact makes it easier to handle them.

After I harvest garlic, I lay it out on the ground to dry in the sun for a few days. Once dry, the remaining soil on the bulbs is easily brushed or knocked off and the outer skin on the bulbs becomes papery and fragile. At this point, they're ready to store wherever it's cool and dark, such as indoors in a pantry.

As garlic sits in storage, its flavor will change. Some varieties become milder, others hotter. If they turn soft and almost gummy, they're past their prime. California Early stands out when it comes to storage, leaving me without my favorite pizza topping for only about three months of the year. Other varieties are a brief pleasure of only four to six months.

Enduring and persistent
Garlic is also easy to save for the next season's planting. I choose the biggest bulbs from what I've harvested and store them with the rest until it's time to plant again, usually only a month or two after they were harvested. I leave the bulbs intact and break them into cloves only a week before planting.

From year to year, I plant garlic in a new bed so that the soil from the former bed can recover whatever nutrients it has depleted; rotating garlic around the beds also reduces the chance of garlic viruses getting a footing in a bed's soil. There are no other pests to watch for with garlic.

Despite my best effort to maximize my harvest, I always seem to miss several bulbs if the stalk has broken off and there's no evidence above ground of where they are. So, over the years, more and more of my beds have unintended volunteer garlic plants that grow between whatever I've planted. Garlic deters pests, so they've sort of become a part of my integrated pest management strategy with no extra effort.

Garlic's persistence to grow even when nobody's taking care of it is remarkable. My first harvest of garlic from the roadside is still growing and spreading in the field where I planted it years ago. Should there ever be a collapse of society, an uprising of the living dead, outbreak of smallpox or any other catastrophe, I should still be set for garlic.

Garlic from Marshall Hinsley's garden.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
Garlic from Marshall Hinsley's garden.
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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

---

This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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