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The Farmer Diaries

Texas farmer defends maligned, misunderstood hornworm

Marshall Hinsley
Sep 14, 2014 | 6:00 am

If it's your first time to grow tomatoes, you'll eventually walk out among your plants and find one or two of them stripped of their leaves. What may have been a robust tomato plant full of promise the day before will suddenly have become a skeleton of branches with a few green fruits remaining, and some of those may be partially eaten too.

Demoralized, you can't help but seek an answer for this instant misfortune. You'll look among the bare branches, trying to grasp what has happened until your eyes are drawn to the last cluster of leaves still left on the plant. You reach out to touch the branch, which has an usually thick portion of stalk and — good golly, Miss Molly — the branch arches back and reaches out toward your hand, revealing itself to be the largest and most animated worm you've ever seen, almost as long and definitely as big around as a cigar.

So voracious is a hornworm's appetite that it can denude a plant in a day, evoking the ire of gardeners who can't be blamed for wanting vengeance.

The sight of a tobacco hornworm is shocking, even to experienced farmers. Each year when I find my first one for the season, I admit I am a little startled. Blending in so well with their host plant — usually a tomato but sometimes peppers, eggplants and potatoes — they escape detection until I'm face to face with them. Light green, with small spots that look like rows of eyes running down both sides of their plump bodies, they have an intimidating stinger at one end that accounts for why they're called hornworms.

In fact, the horn has no sting to it at all; it appears to serve no purpose except to aid in its camouflage, looking like a bit of stem. Still, the caterpillar has a menacing look that keeps predators back and gives gardeners pause about pulling them off their plants.

So voracious is their appetite that they can denude a plant in a day, evoking the ire of gardeners who can't be blamed for wanting vengeance. Look at the garden sprays and pesticides at garden centers, and you'll see this tomato enemy clearly illustrated on their labels — a bottle of revenge for under $10.

In online gardening forums, you'll likely see questions from newbie growers asking how to get rid of the pest, along with outcries for the destruction they've caused. Seasoned growers offer plenty of solutions, giving answers that often fall into the territory of creative and indulgent cruelty, with methods of killing the worms that reveal their pleasure in executing their enemies.

"I use two bricks, lay the hornworm down on one and smash it with the other," says a woman with a profile pic that looks innocent enough. "I stab them with scissors," offers an otherwise kind and gentle man. Someone else just throws them onto the hot asphalt of the road nearby and enjoys their slow death under the desiccating sun.

The refrain among growers is clear: all hornworms must die.

This detrimental garden guest turns into a beautiful hawk moth, an important pollinator of nighttime blooming flowers.

What's not addressed in this chorus of death is that this detrimental garden guest turns into a beautiful hawk moth — so resembling a hummingbird when it drinks nectar from flowers that many people mistake it for one. Hawk moths hover over flowers and flit from one to the next, just like a hummingbird. Also known as sphinx moths, hawk moths use their extraordinarily long proboscises to drink nectar, usually at night, and are therefore important pollinators of nighttime blooming flowers.

The few days a hornworm spends building up its bulk by eating garden plants is more than paid for when it turns into a hawk moth and pollinates gourds, ornamental flowers and wildflowers. As part of the ecosystem where we plant our gardens, it has a purpose. Therefore, the calls for eradication with no mercy are shortsighted and self defeating, especially when we consider the plight of pollinators worldwide, dying off from the exponentially increasing use of pesticides in industrial agriculture.

I can't kill hornworms. I've seen their purpose, and I've witnessed their intelligence. On a warm afternoon when I was inspecting my hydroponically grown tomatoes, I came across a hornworm defending himself against a horsefly.

The fly was trying to bite the hornworm on his back, but the hornworm gripped the branch where he was with two of his false feet and swung the rest of his body at the fly each time the fly approached, like a little green baseball bat. The fly was persistent, but so was the hornworm. I was both astonished and somewhat disturbed by the hornworm's apparent degree of self-awareness. He grew fatigued by the battle, and I could tell he was distressed.

Killing conscious beings does not sit well with me. So to protect my tomatoes from loss, I choose other options that ensure the hornworms may fulfill their destiny.

Sometimes I let them have the plant they're eating. If I plant a dozen or more tomato plants, I rarely find hornworms on more than one or two. I can spare a couple of plants.

To protect my tomatoes from loss, I choose other options — like planting sacred datura — that ensure the hornworms fulfill their destiny.

In fact, I may plant a few extra and designate them as sacrificial plants. When I find a hornworm, I gently pry them off my other tomato plants and place them on my sacrificial plants. If I should ever plant tomatoes for commercial production, I would dedicate a couple of rows for hornworms. It's a sort of payment to Mother Nature for the plot of ground I've taken over for my own purposes.

Third, I plant sacred datura near my garden. Hornworms prefer sacred datura to tomatoes, so planting it near my garden draws the hornworms away from my crops.

Datura is a native ornamental bush that blooms at night; its huge white flowers emit a fragrance that can fill the air for a hundred yards away. As sacred datura is a night-blooming plant, hawk moths feed from the flowers, thus the datura provides for the complete lifecycle of the insect.

I've even begun to consider the potential of rearing hornworms in a brood chamber. By picking them off of my tomatoes and placing them in a container, I can feed the worms with sucker branches that I prune away from my tomato plants.

The suckers need to come off the plants anyway; feeding them to hornworms seems a perfect use for the spare branches. The worms will feed on the branches for a few days and then start to wander around in the container, at which point they're ready to build their cocoon and transform into a hawk moth. Details on how to raise hornworms into adults are available from the Manduca Project website.

I know that treating hornworms as guests in my garden who need to be accommodated, rather than pests that need to be eradicated, challenges the mentality of those who simply want to "get rid" of whatever's eating their plants. But aside from my appreciation of the unique and beautiful creatures they are at any stage of their lifecycle, I know that hornworms and the hawk moths they become serve a purpose in the natural habitat we occupy.

I prefer to find a way to work with this habitat. If we simply rid ourselves of everything that bothers us, I'm afraid that we could eventually wind up with a world that's as flat and bereft of beauty as a Walmart parking lot.

A tobacco hornworm feeds on a tomato plant in Marshall Hinsley's hydroponics test garden.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
A tobacco hornworm feeds on a tomato plant in Marshall Hinsley's hydroponics test garden.
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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

---

This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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