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The Farmer Diaries

North Texas farmer demonstrates how to cull best seeds for next year's harvest

Marshall Hinsley
Sep 22, 2013 | 6:00 am

At the end of summer, I look over my crops and make an assessment of their productivity through the seasons. Okra, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash and other crops may no longer be the thriving, compact plants they were a few months ago — but they're hanging on, battered and brown in some areas, still yielding harvest each day.

At this time of year, it's clear to see which crop varieties have done well and which have not. Late freezes in the spring were too much for Lady Finger okra. Several varieties of tomatoes I planted stopped producing fruit after May. Delicious 51 cantaloupes tied me down with demanding watering needs, then turned out small, tasteless melons hardly worth my effort.

On the other hand, Texas Wild and Nichol's Estate tomatoes were outstanding performers, as were Clemson spineless okra, Israeli melons, Danvers 126 carrots and cocozelle zucchini. I was especially pleased with the drought-tolerance of a single Punta Banda tomato plant that returned to life after nearly dying from lack of water. It continues to hand over delicious fruit, with no signs of slowing down.

Saving the seed from this year's harvest to plant next year not only saves money, but it also adapts each variety to the soil and climate.

My final assessment will help me make better use of my garden space next year, by replanting what works well and tossing out what doesn't. It also gives me insight into which crops may be good candidates to improve through the art of seed saving.

Who gets picked
Saving the seed from this year's harvest to plant next year not only saves money, but it also adapts each variety to the soil and climate where the seed is planted. For example: A drought-tolerant tomato from Arizona that grows moderately well in Texas can be made to grow even better simply by gathering seed from the healthiest plants each year and planting them the next. Gardeners who do this are assisting natural selection, furthering along the plants that show off the best genes.

As for which seeds to collect: First, the plants must be open-pollinated — no hybrids or genetically engineered organisms. Most transplants sold at the home improvement stores are hybrids. Avoid those, as they'll produce unpredictable seeds.

Second, during planting season, you want to maintain a distance between plants of the same type. Otherwise they'll cross-pollinate, which can also result in unpredictable seeds. Seed producers keep a mile between varieties; for the backyard gardener or small-scale farmer, several car lengths is enough space.

That said, cross-pollination can be useful, creating some amazing blends, but they won't exhibit traits consistent with the original seed. The new traits can be delicious, or they can be a step in the wrong direction. It's a gamble. Gambling can be fun. There are always the good seed companies to keep the lines pure if you fail.

Every seed you take
For almost every crop, saving the seed is simply a matter of letting it dry out on the plant or sit in overripe fruit for a day or two; extracting it; drying it; and storing it in an unsealed container or paper bag in a cool, dark shelf in the cupboard.

For vegetables with seeds in pods, such as okra, beans and peas, we let the pods dry out until the seed turns hard and is easily cracked out. For corn, we let the kernels harden and the husks dry out. Then the kernels can be picked off with ease and packed away in an envelope.

Seed saving allows me to try more varieties each season without increasing my garden budget. I can also secure access to the varieties I've come to depend on.

For peppers, melons and cucumbers, we let the fruit over-ripen before we extract the seeds and dry them out on a plate.

For carrots, Swiss chard, kale, collard greens and herbs, we keep plants healthy long enough so that they produce flowers. Once the flowers fade and drop off, they leave behind clusters of seeds in their place. Each plant is loaded down with enough to make dozens of seed packets.

Then there is the tomato
The tomato is the most complicated plant for harvesting seed, with many steps. And yet success is nearly guaranteed, which illustrates just how easy seed saving can be. Furthermore, tomatoes are self-pollinating — no insect required — so the seed that each plant produces is more predictable.

First, I cull out the healthiest plants and gather several overripe tomatoes from each. Then I cut each tomato and squeeze out the meat, juice and seed into a bowl. Once I've finished squeezing it all out, I add water to the juicy clumps in the bowl so that the amount is about doubled.

Tomato seed is prevented from sprouting inside the tomato by a compound in the fruit that inhibits seed germination. To remove that compound from the seed, you leave the clumpy seed mix out at room temperature for as long as it takes for a white mold to form a skin across the top.

Once the mold forms, you skim it and the fleshy tomato meat out of the water. It's usually easy; if not, whisk the mix until the meat and the seeds separate and the seed settles to the bottom of the bowl.

The final step is to run clean water over the seed in a strainer. I use a wire mesh sink strainer for this step. I don't aim to eliminate every last trace of the tomato skin or flesh; there will be a few specks that aren't worth the effort to extract.

Then I set the strainer aside for a day in the open air until the seed dries. I pack up the seed in an envelope sent generously to me by a soliciting credit card company, label it and set it aside for next year.

With no practice, skill or supervision, I mastered tomato seed saving the first time I tried it in my late 20s, even leaving the mix to ferment and grow mold. I didn't know to let it mold; it was just one of those happy coincidences that happens for procrastinators and semi-lazy people like me. My experience shows how the art of seed saving is almost instinctive.

I enjoy knowing how to save seed. It allows me to try more varieties each season without increasing my garden budget. Seed saving is also my means to secure access to the varieties of garden plants I've come to depend on.

I enjoy patronizing seed companies that engage in sustainable practices. But who knows if they will always be in business? Or perhaps drop a variety, as one company did some years ago with a seed called Five Color Silver Beet. The only reason this beautiful array of red, orange, purple and white Swiss chard can still be found today is because gardeners held onto it year after year and kept the variety alive.

If not for the efforts of seed savers who master the techniques of cultivating and harvesting crops in backyards or open fields, we'd have fewer options for our gardens and dinner plates.

Dried okra pods with okra seeds ready to crack out of their natural containers.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
Dried okra pods with okra seeds ready to crack out of their natural containers.
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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

---

This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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