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The Farmer Diaries

North Texas farmer expands palate with popular pizza-friendly herb

Marshall Hinsley
Oct 13, 2013 | 6:00 am

My life before basil was dull. I ate pasta sauce from a jar and pizza sauce from a can, not knowing just how unsavory my existence was. Then one day, I tried fresh basil from the grocery store. It was an early step in my culinary journey that led me to try more new foods. My blinders were removed; my mind was open.

My next step was to grow my own basil, whereupon I discovered how much better it was than store-bought. The difference between the flavor and aroma of basil cut fresh from my yard and the wilted fresh basil at the store is like the difference between watching a movie at the theater and on a phone. One you experience; the other gets you familiar with the plot. This is why I strive to keep my own stash of truly fresh basil at my disposal throughout the year.

The difference between basil cut fresh from my yard and the wilted fresh basil at the store is like the difference between watching a movie at the theater and on a phone.

In recent years, I've supported my basil habit with more varieties: lemon, lime, purple leaf, lettuce leaf and Genovese. All have distinct flavors. All are easy to grow in Texas. Basil has few pests. It thrives even in the hot drought of summer with a little supplemental water.

In the spring and summer, all I do is plant the seed and watch it grow. For late fall and winter, however, there's more to it. Basil is the first to die, almost at the mere mention of frost. When frost bites basil, its leaves turn black and it becomes useless.

I learned the hard way during an unusually early frost in October 2012. It wiped out my basil before I had taken any measures to protect or store it. So now, I let pumpkins remind me to get my basil stash ready for chilly weather.

First, I ensure that I have several pots of basil growing in a protected greenhouse or windowsill. From the youngest plants in my garden — ones that haven't flowered, gone to seed, and become woody and tough — I take cuttings from green stems.

The cut should be made just below any place where the stem branches out with leaves. This is the location where unique, embryonic tissue can grow out into any other part of the plant: branches, leaves or roots. On a cutting about six to 10 inches long, I pinch off the bottom third of leaves and place it in a jar of water that covers the bare part of the stem.

In about two weeks, the stem has a new set of roots. This new plant may be potted in a clay pot full of potting mix or compost and grown just like a house plant wherever there's bright sunlight. When it's time for a pizza or pesto, I can pinch a few leaves off the top of the plant, which only makes it bushier in time, not sparse.

Try dried
Things can go wrong in a greenhouse, though. Cats knock over pots. Temperatures plunge below a heater's capacity to keep the facility warm. I neglect to water. Therefore, I have found that another backup is a good idea: dried basil.

Though not as flavorful as fresh basil, dried basil still outperforms the grocery store spice jars and costs nothing.

Though not as flavorful as fresh basil, dried basil still outperforms the grocery store spice jars and costs nothing. What's more, I sometimes prefer the mellow flavor of dried basil for some dishes, especially pizza. So it's both a backup for the fresh basil and its own thing with its own purpose.

To create a stash of dried basil, I again select younger plants with greener stems and few flowers. Using pruning shears, I cut down the plant right at the base where the main stem meets the ground and turns into roots — like chopping down a tree.

If I'm lucky, I'll find some stems trying to branch out at the base. By cutting just above these new branches, I give the plant a chance to bounce back and produce a supply of leaves right up to the day that frost stops everything.

After I cut down the basil plant, I inspect it for dirt, pests or spiders that need to be rescued and placed back out in the garden. I tie twine to a couple of the lower branches and hang the whole plant, upside down, in a closet or anywhere that's cool, dark and dry.

For added protection, the plants may be placed in cloth sacks; I don't, though. In about a month to six weeks, the leaves will be brown and crispy.

Whenever I want to add dried basil to a dish, I pull off a couple of leaves and sprinkle them over the food. The dried plant may be simply stored in situ, or the leaves can be broken off and stored whole in an airtight container once the plant is wholly dry. Because the flavor oils of basil break down when they contact air, whole leaves tend to retain more flavor than ground leaves.

Fresh from the potted plants in my greenhouse or from my own, whole-leaf dried cache, homegrown basil beats the supermarket knock-offs any day. With a little planning, I can enjoy it year-round.

Basil growing in a Texas garden.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
Basil growing in a Texas garden.
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news/restaurants-bars

Spring Arrival

West Dallas gets new Spanish-Peruvian restaurant with big-name chef

Luciana Gomez
Sep 18, 2026 | 4:27 pm
Ulloa's
Photo courtesy of Ulloa's
Paella will be on the menu.

A new restaurant with a high-profile culinary director will bring Spanish and Peruvian flavors to West Dallas: Called Ulloa’s, it is coming to 727 Fort Worth Ave., with a projected opening in March 2027.

The concept is from philanthropists Susan and Woodrow Gandy, who were previously investors in the historic Belmont Hotel just around the corner. They've teamed up with Dallas celebrity chef Kent Rathbun as culinary director, along with Christopher Tunnell as general manager to lead the front of the house.

Rathbun is a name Dallas diners know well, with a resume that includes The Mansion on Turtle Creek, the Landmark Restaurant at the historic Melrose Hotel, Seventeen Seventeen at the Dallas Museum of Art, Abacus, Jasper's, Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, and more. He's won numerous awards and made multiple appearances on Food Network. He was most recently behind the launch of On The Rocks, an Italian bistro in Burleson.

Kent Rathbun Chef Kent Rathbun will be the culinary director of Ulloa's. Photo courtesy of Kent Rathbun

Tunnell’s background spans both culinary direction and front-of-house operations. He worked at Los Angeles hot spots Ketchup, Geisha House, and Les Deux, as well as the Mandalay Bay and The Mirage in Las Vegas, before moving to Dallas to open The Mexican, the upscale restaurant in the Design District.

“I am truly excited to partner with Chef Kent Rathbun, whose reputation is amazing — not only in the DFW Metroplex, but in the culinary world,” Tunnell says. “He has been with this project since the beginning, helping develop it; this will be a very chef-driven, culinary-forward restaurant.”

The team's vision for Ulloa’s is both culinary and urban, with hopes of anchoring the corridor and attracting other businesses to Fort Worth Avenue — a stretch connecting downtown Dallas with Oak Cliff that remains somewhat underdeveloped despite its panoramic skyline views.

The restaurant is named for Spanish explorer, astronomer, and scientist Antonio de Ulloa, who spent extensive time in the Mexican peninsula before becoming Louisiana’s first governor. During his travels, Ulloa documented a fogbow — a circular rainbow formed when sunlight meets mist that causes silhouettes standing between the sun and fog to appear ringed in light, a phenomenon known today as “Ulloa’s Rings.”

That vibrant phenomenon inspired both the restaurant's identity and logo. The concept promises "bold, worldly flavors in a welcoming neighborhood setting inspired by exploration and discovery,” the owners say.

Ulloa's Rendering of Ulloa's.Rendering courtesy of Ulloa's

While the menu remains in development, Tunnell describes the culinary direction as “Spanish soul with a Peruvian heart.” The kitchen will merge the coastal flavors of both traditions — ranging from paellas and ceviches to crafted cocktails and signature adaptations by Rathbun.

The 200-seat, two-story space will feature a downstairs dining room, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. Upstairs, plans call for a secondary bar, a private dining room, a patio, and an expansive balcony patio, offering views of the city's skyline and of the Margaret Hunt Hill and Margaret McDermott bridges.

While the upstairs space will be available for private events, the owners intend for it to operate primarily as an organic extension of the main restaurant. The buildout will include a guest elevator along with ample parking, including both self-parking and valet options.

The team says the restaurant will have have an aesthetic that's “warm, theatrical, generous, elegant but alive, with the energy of a great Spanish tapas bar and the soul of Peruvian hospitality.”

Ulloa’s plans to launch with dinner service first, followed by lunch and weekend brunch.

restaurants bars peruvian flavors west dallas oak cliff kent rathbun
news/restaurants-bars
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