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    National spotlight

    One Dallas eatery makes the list of Esquire best new restaurants

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 18, 2021 | 1:46 pm
    fried chicken Tiffany Derry
    Fried chicken at Roots Southern Table.
    Photo courtesy of Roots Southern Table

    Four Texas restaurants are basking in the national spotlight: They've been named by Esquire magazine on its list of America's 40 best new restaurants.

     

    No. 1 on the list was Dhamaka, an Indian restaurant in New York. Two Texas restaurants made the top 10.

     

    The four Texas establishments that make the list include a critical favorite from Dallas, plus two restaurants from Houston and one from Austin, as follows:

     
       
    •  Roots Southern Table: Top Chef alum Tiffany Derry's restaurant devoted to Black Southern cooking in Dallas (19th)
    •  
    •  Hestia: chef Kevin Fink's live fire restaurant in Austin (fourth)
    •  
    •  March: a Mediterranean-inspired tasting menu restaurant in Houston (sixth)
    •  
    •  Degust: a Spanish and Mexican-inspired tasting menu restaurant in Houston (17th)
    •  
     

    The list was authored by four writers — Omar Mamoon, Joshua David Stein, former Esquire food and drink editor Jeff Gordinier, and culture and lifestyle director Kevin Sintumuang — who traveled the country in search of candidates.

     

    Texas was covered by Stein, a Brooklyn-based writer and former critic for the New York Observer and the Village Voice.

     

    At Tiffany Derry's restaurant, he praises the fried chicken, brined and fried in duck fat, and her unique version of shrimp & grits, which he compares to an Italian-style arancini.

     

    "Roots is plangent proof that Black Southern cooking from the Creole coast, incorporating as it does elements of French, Spanish, African, and Caribbean traditions, alchemizing as it does migrations forced and otherwise, is both the country's greatest culinary patrimony and its path ahead," he writes.

     

    Roots is definitely catching the New York media's eye; the restaurant was just included on the New York Times' "50 most vibrant and delicious restaurants in 2021."

     

    Both of Houston's representatives on the list represent a new breed of tasting menu restaurant. Stein hails March for its menus that take inspiration from different regions of the Mediterranean. "March, as the name implies, is a steady movement toward the avant-garde," he states.

     

    He finds similar thrills at Degust, where two chefs put a playful spin on Spanish and Mexican-inspired dishes like double-fried octopus.

     

    Austin restaurant Hestia, which came in at No. 4, earns praises for its 20-foot, wood-fired hearth where temperatures can reach 1,200 degrees. "Hard to believe that the same fire that tenderly cooks the halibut — kept three feet above the flame and served with an iridescent mirror glaze of a brown-butter sauce — is responsible for the ferocious char on the dry-aged Wagyu bavette, with its sunset-red center, accompanied by lacquered layers of potato and butter coiled into a tight, croissant-like bun," Stein writes.

     
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    Chef Crime

    Dallas chef Kent Rathbun issues reward for his trusty stolen smoker

    Teresa Gubbins
    Jul 26, 2025 | 3:00 pm
    Kent Rathbun smoker
    Kent Rathbun
    Chef Kent Rathbun's missing smoker

    A revered smoker trailer belonging to Dallas chef Kent Rathbun was stolen, and Rathbun is determined to get it back.

    Rathbun is the Beard Award-nominated chef and restaurateur whose resume includes The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Abacus, Jasper's, and his current company Kent Rathbun Catering.

    The stolen smoker was kept inside a gated parking lot at Rathbun's catering kitchen, located near Irving Boulevard and Mockingbird Lane, in an industrial area west of I-35.

    Rathbun says it was stolen somewhere between July 17 and July 21. The police have been notified and there's an effort underway to locate security footage.

    "I was out of town — we didn't have a lot of catering at the time," Rathbun says. "One of our chefs found the gate open — it looked like it had been damaged. But it wasn't until I went to pick up the trailer on Monday July 21 that we realized it was gone."

    The smoker has a colorful backstory: Rathbun got it as a gift from Baxter Brinkmann, CEO and president of The Brinkmann Corporation, manufacturer of outdoor living products including gas and charcoal grills, smokers, and solar/low-voltage landscape lighting.

    "He gave me this rig as a bithday present on the day of my first Taste of NFL at Abacus," Rathbun says. "The first year that we did the Taste of NFL charitable tailgate party to support the North Texas Food Bank, I asked Brinker if he would supply smokers and grills for all the celebrity chefs coming in from around the country. I just needed a little grill but he offered the use of this 18-foot-long outfitted smoker."

    "He came to the party, and we were standing by it, appreciating how well it worked when somebody walked up and said 'happy birthday, chef'," Rathbun says. "Baxter said, 'I want you to have the smoker — happy birthday. And as long as you keep my name on it, I will repair it, fix it, my team will take care of it'. He was like the team captain."

    That was in 2001 and over the years, the rig has received more than its share of custom upgrades, including metal laser-cut ID tags with "Chef Kent Rathbun" on every door.

    "It is so personalized that I can walk up to that trailer and will be able to recognize it, no matter what modifications they've made," Rathbun says.

    That's also why he feels certain the theft is not an inside job, as some have suggested. "Anyone on our team knows what a distinctive smoker it is," he says.

    While not a secret, the location of his catering company is not open to the public and not generally well known. Someone driving by may have spotted it in the parking lot, but it's on a highly industrial side street that does not draw a lot of random motorists. It also would not be random because it would require a truck to pull it.

    "The thing is 18 feet long, it's giant," he says. "It's not a toy, it's a tool, and we need it to stay in business."

    Rathbun posted a "plea" on social media offering a $1,000 reward — "and probably a good amount of barbecue," he says — to anyone who can provide information as to its whereabouts and was met with a wave of support including offers to chip in $500 and even $1000 to the reward pool which is now at $8,500. (You can call Rathbun at 214-704-0907 with tips.)

    "Whether I get the trailer back or not, I've been ovehwelmed by how many people have stepped up and offered their support," he says.

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