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    Drinking Diaries

    Bowen House keeps it classic for sexy respite from Uptown bar scene

    Jonathan Rienstra
    Nov 28, 2014 | 12:42 pm

    Hey, everyone. Did you miss me? Did you even know that I've been gone for the last nine months? Don't act like the return of Drinking Diaries isn't the greatest thing to happen to you today.

    Well, I mean, besides the fact that The Loon's spiritual successor has opened, which is definitely where I'm going after I'm done here so I can down some whiskey Cokes and lament the fact that I'm less than a memory to you people.

    But if I wasn't drinking to fix myself, it's a good bet that you could find me over at Bowen House, the sexy saloon in a historical landmark house formerly occupied by Ahab Bowen. I used to hit up Ahab Bowen every fall for my high school's '70s Day during homecoming week, but the vintage shop went out of style for good in 2011.

    Time is valued here; it's an opportunity to savor the space and the attitude as much as the drinks.

    Bowen House's owner, Pasha Heidari, was thinking vintage too — but he decided it would be better to go all the way back to the beginning of the house's life in 1874. Heidari already was preaching the old-school gospel with his Kennedy Room on Maple Avenue, but Bowen House's interior is coated in original photographs from the last quarter of the 19th century.

    The marble-top tables are small and cozy, ideal for a quiet date over classic cocktails or wine with a plate of fried Brie. The all-black walls and silver accents give off a subtly sexy vibe that's a modern twist on the classic saloon.

    This isn't a place made for an abundance of Uptowners looking to guzzle. Time is valued here; it's an opportunity to savor the space and the attitude as much as the drinks.

    And if it isn't date night, the long bar, which takes up nearly all of the back wall, is an ideal place to pick the bartender's mind about your drink, or strike up casual conversations. If it's a cold or rainy evening, a spot by the fireplace merits consideration. And although the expanded patio's view of a strip mall is less than ideal, a seat out there still feels like a hidden alcove from the madness of McKinney Avenue.

    But then, the most important part of any bar is the alcohol. Bowen House pays more than lip service to its time-traveling theme with a focus on pre-Prohibition cocktails. The refreshingly light blueberry bourbon smash I started with (they didn't have blackberries) probably was not the best choice for sitting on a patio in 40-degree weather. But then maybe I shouldn't have sat outside during 40-degree weather.

    The Sazerac, on the other hand, was a reminder of why it is in contention for America's oldest known cocktail. The absinthe rinse gave each sip a tiny end note of licorice that blended nicely with the dry spiciness of the rye. Yes, I know how I sound right now. I don't care.

    Although Bowen House's mixologists are well-versed in the merits of the Sidecar, Manhattan, Tom Collins and other classics, they also like taking your preferences and creating something out of nothing. It's nice to have those fallbacks — they've stuck around for a reason — but a little liquid adventure is good for the soul.

    Bowen House is all about classic decor and classic drinks.

    Bowen House in Dallas
    Bowen House/Facebook
    Bowen House is all about classic decor and classic drinks.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon

    Chinese restaurant from celeb chef to debut in Dallas Design District

    Amy McCarthy
    Jan 20, 2026 | 12:37 pm
    A table spread at Night Rooster with tea smoked duck, noodles, and steamed redfish
    Samantha Marie Photography
    Tea-smoked duck, steamed redfish, and more await at Night Rooster

    A new Chinese fine dining restaurant from a celebrity chef will debut in Dallas’ Design District later this month: Called Night Rooster, it will open at 1000 N. Riverfront Blvd., taking over the first floor of the building that's home to Italian steakhouse The Saint.

    A Saint-sibling concept from Hooper Hospitality Concepts, Night Rooster is the culmination of 20 years of conversations between restaurateur Andy Hooper and Los Angeles chef Shirley Chung, the Beijing-born chef who’s appeared on food competition shows such as Top Chef and Food Network’s Tournament of Champions.

    This is the first Dallas restaurant for Chung, whose kitchen experience includes working alongside culinary heavy-hitters like Thomas Keller and Jose Andres.

    “Shirley and I have talked about building something together for over 20 years, and Night Rooster is the realization of that dream,” Hooper says in a release. “Night Rooster tells a story — of friendship, perseverance, and starting fresh — and we’re incredibly proud to bring that story to life.”

    Chef Shirley Chung Chef Shirley Chung.Photo by Samantha Marie Photography

    Chung, dubbed the “Dumpling Queen of Los Angeles,” brings her own brand of perseverance to the restaurant. In 2024, Chung was at the top of her culinary game when she was diagnosed with stage IV squamous cell carcinoma of the tongue, says the release.

    After undergoing an “intensive” treatment regimen, her cancer is now in full remission, and she’s been busy dreaming up a menu of Texas-inflected Chinese dishes ranging from orange quail, a play on the classic Chinese-American orange chicken, to cheeseburger-stuffed potstickers.

    Elsewhere on the menu, diners will find creative, shareable dishes like jasmine tea smoked duck, tequila-marinated Drunken Yellowtail, and multiple noodle options, including the Cacio e Sichuan Pepe, a tingly riff on the classic Italian pasta with Sichuan peppercorn.

    Many dishes will be made with ingredients from local purveyors, like beef from Outpost 76 Ranch in Sulphur Springs and mushrooms from Arlington’s Texas Fungus.

    Night Rooster dumplings Chef Shirley Chung is known as the "Dumpling Queen of Los Angeles."Photo by Samantha Marie Photography

    Night Rooster's cocktail menu will have a similar focus on blending Texas ingredients with Chinese flavors and techniques, all with a modern twist. Drinks like the East Meets West, mixed with Nikka Coffey malt whisky, bourbon, black sugar, bitters, and cherrywood smoke, await.

    When it debuts on January 31, Night Rooster will be open for dinner service only. The restaurant will serve dinner Sunday-Thursday from 5-10 pm, and Friday-Saturday from 5-11 pm.

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