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    Texas Road Trip

    This is the ultimate road trip to West Texas' best destinations

    Justine Harrington
    Feb 3, 2017 | 3:33 pm

    Texas lends itself well to adventure. And when it comes to the ultimate road trip, there’s no better terrain to traverse than West Texas. In fact, with its wide-open roads, star-pricked skies, reddish-purple mountain peaks, and rugged tracts of lonely desert, you’d swear this the sole purpose of this land is road-tripping.

    So gather up some pals (or don’t, because solitary sojourns are where it’s at), crank up the lonesome sounds of Townes Van Zandt, and start the trek westward — all the while keeping the famed words of Wallace Stegner in mind for inspiration:

    “It should not be denied ... that being footloose has always exhilarated us. It is associated in our minds with escape from history and oppression and law and irksome obligations, with absolute freedom, and the road has always led West.”

    Day 1: Alpine and Balmorhea State Park
    What’s the best way to feel refreshed after seven hours in the car? A dip in a giant pool in the middle of the desert, of course. Balmorhea State Park is home to the world’s largest spring-fed swimming pool — its deep, turquoise waters make for a pleasant start to any road trip. The park is typically open from 8 am to 5 pm, so head here en route to Alpine (if you get an early start), or even on your way back home to Austin.

    Big Bend has the grandeur, and Marfa’s got the Brooklynites, but you’d be wrong to discount Alpine. With its dusty, small-town Texas charms and quaint vibes, it’s well worth a day-long detour, if you’ve got the time. (Of course, you do, you’re on West Texas time now — even the tumbleweeds move slower down here.) Ringed by mountain peaks and desert highways, Alpine is home of the Big Bend’s Amtrak train stop, Sul Ross State University (as seen in the film Boyhood), and the most remote craft brewery in the country: Big Bend Brewing Company.

    Stroll up and down historic Holland Avenue, and check out Alpine’s crown jewel, the Holland Hotel. Meander in and out of art galleries, make a pit stop at Front Street Books for your literary fix, and lazily linger over Big Bend Coffee Roasters-produced lattes at Plaine Coffee (whose sister location, Frama, is in Marfa).

    Once you’ve had your fill of downtown life, why not go for a hike? Behind the University’s Mountainside Dormitory is a short trail that leads to the top of Hancock Hill — check it out for some mighty fine views of Alpine and its surrounding mountainous environs.

    Stay: The Holland Hotel if you want to get fancy; The Maverick Inn if you’re on a budget
    Eat: Alicia’s Mexican Restaurant for Tex-Mex; The Reata for upscale cowboy food
    Alpine at a glance: Hike up Hancock Hill; sip a local IPA at Big Bend Brewing Company; take a dip in the waters at Balmorhea; dance the night away at Railroad Blues

    Day 2: Marfa
    Being in Marfa is a little bit like being in a West Texas version of The Truman Show. Walking around, you may start to get the uneasy sense that the townspeople are movie extras, and you’re the unwitting star of the show. Why? Because the whole town looks and feels like a film set — the presence of East Coast-chic eateries and world-class contemporary art studios in an otherwise normal small Texan town is a little jarring, to say the least.

    It’s worth starting your day with an early-morning tour of the Chinati Foundation, to check out the work of minimalist sculptor Donald Judd, Marfa’s hometown hero. From here, it’s onward to more art — peek inside downtown galleries for a glimpse of Andy Warhol’s Last Supper, pay a visit to Ballroom Marfa, and stroll in and out of the many other galleries that dot this tiny town.

    Lunchtime! Yes, Beyoncé was once photographed eating at the Food Shark, and, sure, Cochineal boasts some impressive-looking artisanal delights, but if you only eat at one spot in Marfa, it’s gotta be The Pizza Foundation: their thin, doughy, yummy, fresh-baked pies are insanely good. (In true Marfa style, though, the Pizza Foundation is only open on weekends.)

    At night, you’ve got your choice of star-studded activities: you could grab your flask of whiskey and head to the Marfa Lights Viewing Center (to check out the town’s famed mysterious lights that have been making an appearance since the late 1800’s) or you could head out to the McDonald Observatory for a Star Party program. Either way, prepare to be awed by the infiniteness and beauty of the West Texas night sky.

    Stay: The Indian Lodge in the Davis Mountains State Park if you’re feeling the nature; El Cosmico if you’re feeling the glamping vibes; the Thunderbird Hotel if you feel like splurging
    Eat: The Pizza Foundation; the Food Shark for the miso-tahini veggie bowl; LaVenture for swanky American-style fare; Planet Marfa for nachos and beer
    Marfa at a glance: Channel your inner astronomy nerd at a Star Party; peruse local poetry at the Marfa Book Company; check out the Chinati Foundation; watch for potential UFO activity at the Marfa Lights Viewing Center; camp out in style at El Cosmico

    Days 3 and 4: Big Bend National Park
    Take the long way to Big Bend — it’s well worth it. From Marfa, head south on Highway 67 toward Presidio and pick up signs for FM-170, otherwise known as the River Road. This famed stretch of highway has been deemed one of the best drives in America. (For a detailed description of the River Road, check this out.)

    It’s hard to overestimate the lovely vastness of Big Bend National Park. Hundreds of thousands of visitors come here each year, despite its inconvenient remoteness — the park is simply that incredible.

    If you’re feeling acclimated, it’s time for a hike. For a shorter hike, the Lost Mine trail, at 4.6 miles, is a great pick: this pine-covered trail offers breathtaking views of the many glorious rock formations and peaks that permeate Big Bend. However, if you have the time (and the stamina), the South Rim loop, at 12.6 miles, is really something else: once you’ve reached the top, prepare to be surrounded by the best view in Texas. (Keep in mind that both are strenuous hikes — don’t forget to drink a lot of water.)

    Of course, you could forego hiking altogether and still have a good time in Big Bend. Simply driving through the park is an unforgettable experience. Cross over into Boquillas del Carmen, a small Mexican village on the Rio Grande, by rowboat and horse — just don’t forget your passport! Take a leisurely soak in the Langford Hot Springs, then follow that up with a visit to Santa Elena canyon. Just be sure to get there at sunset — it will take your breath away.

    Stay: Chisos Mountain Lodge for ease and comfort; one of Big Bend’s three main campgrounds for s’mores and wine under the stars
    Big Bend at a glance: The River Road; enjoy sunset in Santa Elena canyon; soak your tired hiker body in the hot springs; cross the river into Mexico at Boquillas; experience the otherworldly views on the South Rim

    Stay at El Cosmico in Marfa.

    El Cosmico Marfa Spartan Manor Trailer
    Photo by Nick Simonite
    Stay at El Cosmico in Marfa.
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    Aerie in the sky

    Nature-inspired hotel checks into Texas' tallest tower in Austin

    Brianna Caleri
    May 14, 2026 | 9:11 am
    1 Hotel Austin guest room
    Photo by Chase Daniel
    Rooms at 1 Hotel Austin settle in simple and natural design.

    A luxury hotel chain is checking into Austin, adding the Texas capital to a cohort of a dozen North American cities. Called 1 Hotel Austin, the 252-room stay is designed to blend with nature and tap into sustainable hospitality in the new Waterline building — the tallest tower in Texas. Reservations are open now for the hotel, opening in August.

    A press release explains that 1 Hotel Austin looks at its surroundings where Waller Creek and Lady Bird Lake meet "through a contemporary, biophilic lens." Designers used natural materials, textures, and transitions from inside to outside — like balconies and terraces with plants, or floor-to-ceiling windows — to create a feeling of connecting with the natural world.

    Foodies may already know that a highly regarded restaurant from Denver is moving in as the hotel's signature restaurant. Called Alteño Austin, the concept by Chef Johnny Curiel shows off cuisine from the Highlands of Jalisco, where he has a family connection.

    Alte\u00f1o Austin Alteño currently only has one location — the original — in Denver, Colorado, and one more on the way in Charleston, South Carolina.Rending courtesy of 1 Hotels

    “There’s a respect for tradition in the way [Chef Curiel] cooks, but also a willingness to reinterpret it, and that balance is what makes his food so compelling," said Nicholas Demasi, senior vice president of food and beverage at Starwood Hotels, in the release.

    There will also be two other food and beverage concepts: Watr, a "Japanese-leaning" rooftop restaurant and lounge designed to entertain guests from day to night, and Neighbors, a café and wine bar that can be accessed from the lobby and the street for coffee, juice, small plates, draft cocktails, and more, depending on the time of day.

    1 Hotel Austin rooftoop Watr This rooftop restaurant will serve a Japanese-inspired menu.Rending courtesy of 1 Hotels

    Focusing more on the amenities than the rooms, which include 60 luxury suites, the release draws attention to the building's proximity to the Rainey Street District and downtown, making both day and night activities easily accessible. Guests also have a direct connection to the more outdoorsy portion of town via the Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail around the lake.

    Wellness amenities include a run club, sound baths, a 2,000-square-foot fitness center, and a yoga studio. Bamford Wellness Spa will operate a space offering retail and treatments, including couples' experiences. The spa claims inspiration through Hill Country bathhouses, placing a premium on simplicity and restoration.

    1 Hotel Austin guest bath This guest bath is spa-like with a dramatic view.Photo by Chase Daniel

    The hotel is working on its LEED Gold certification, which would verify that the property has earned certain credits in materials, energy, waste management, and more. Gold is the second highest certification. Sustainability initiatives at the hotel will include adopting waste reduction practices for hosted events, supplying reusable in-room glassware, and introducing travelers to the 1 Less Thing program, which encourages them to leave behind a piece of gently used clothing to donate to a local organization.

    “I’ve long admired Austin for its creative energy and entrepreneurial spirit,” says Barry Sternlicht, founder of 1 Hotels and chairman of Starwood Hotels. “It’s a place where innovation thrives alongside a deep respect for the environment and community. Even as the city continues to grow and evolve, it has managed to balance progress with preservation."

    1 Hotels Austin entrance The dramatic entrance exemplifies the transitional design from inside the building to nature outside.Rending courtesy of 1 Hotels

    1 Hotel Austin is located at 96 Red River St., Austin. Reservations are open now at 1hotels.com. Available August room rates are currently discounted and start at $377.

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