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The Farmer Diaries

Texas farmer dissects his obsession with Israeli melons

Marshall Hinsley
Marshall Hinsley
Jun 21, 2015 | 6:00 am

A friend recently told me, “You have a passion for melons.” We had been talking about Israeli melons — that I grow them because they’re sweeter than all others, how many I had planted in a field, how much I expected to earn for their sale, how difficult it is to describe their flavor, and how I wait all year for the two weeks I get to enjoy them.

Is that passion? I’ve known people with a passion, such as Jim Shermbeck, Rita Beving and Molly Rooke, among others, who’ve dedicated decades to fighting the pollution of our air and water to protect the natural environment.

I’ve met John Darling, who is committed to composting. He’s pushed UT Arlington to dispose of uneaten food, pruned tree branches and other organic matter that would have otherwise been trucked to a landfill. Instead of paying for disposal, the university is turning the material into valuable fertilizer for the campus’ landscaping and a nearby community garden.

There’s nothing wrong with lettuce. But it doesn’t excite me like melons do.

Kathy Rogers is devoted to birds, caring for all the wild egrets, eagles, hawks, owls and even grackles that are brought to her at Rogers Wildlife Rehabilitation Center. She turns no bird in need away, and makes do with a budget that doesn’t cover the expenses. It’s her passion; she finds a way.

My wife, Allee, has a passion for art. She’s content only when she makes progress every day toward getting her ideas out into the world. She never tires of it or finds something else that distracts her. The result is something beautiful every time, despite the fact that where she paints has no air conditioning or heating and is subject to the weather and invasion by our cats.

I really like melons and have since I was a child. I’d come home after school in the spring and sit with them, water them and watch them as they grew. They’re one of the first crops I tended when I returned to gardening after college, and I’ve been growing them ever since.

Sure, there have been setbacks, such as the record-breaking heat wave of 2011. Before that, I created a disaster of aphids when I tried to grow them in a compact way so that their vines would “carpet” the field, rather than spacing them far apart as recommended.

Most years I have been rewarded for my efforts. But this year looks like it will be a complete bust. Three months of flooding rainfall have stunted the hundreds of melon vines I have growing on about an acre of land.

Where 6-foot long vines should now be pregnant with hundreds of ripening melons, I see only small, dwarfed vines less than a foot long. They’ve not flowered or set fruit. They’re 3 months old, and that’s about their lifespan.

Of course, I could just buy a melon from the store, but it wouldn’t be one I grew.

I’ve determined they’re not going to yield anything, even though I have invested more time and effort into weed control this year than ever before, by laying out several hundred yards of weed suppression fabric and weighing it down with wooden pallets.

I had hope when a couple of melons turned ripe in one of my 20 Dutch buckets I’m trying out this year. These are my experiment in growing melons hydroponically. I’m searching out new ways to grow melons because I’m not sure that Texas will always have years of abundant rain.

The ripened fruit seemed all right on the outside, and it smelled fragrant and sweet. But when I cut into them and took a bite, they were bland.

My last shot at having a vine-ripe, fresh Israeli melon from my own garden this year may come from the seed I sowed after the rains ended. If these produce, I’ll have something to show for myself, maybe in September.

I’ve also contemplated growing melons in the winter, in a greenhouse with supplemental lighting. Melons produce long vines that make lighting them more difficult than, say, a head of lettuce. Perhaps the vines could be strung up a trellis, with long fluorescent tubes hung vertically to maximize the light hitting the leaves. They’d grow tall rather than sprawled out over the ground.

They’d need heat too. The summer heat is what makes them sweet. They’d need cycles of watering followed by drying at the roots to make the sugars form in the fruit.

Pollination in an insect-proof greenhouse in the middle of winter would be tricky. But maybe I could tear off the male blooms and use them to pollinate the female flowers.

Soon, my family may venture into commercial crop production in a growing facility that makes the weather a non-issue. If so, I’d start with lettuce as my main crop, but that would only be the means I’d use to fund a project where I can grow melons year-round.

There’s nothing wrong with lettuce. But it doesn’t excite me like melons do.

I’ve also begun to look forward to my 2016 melon crop. This year may turn out fruitless, but surely we’ll have better weather next. I could be sitting down to a perfectly sweet Israeli melon in about 13 months, which isn’t that far away.

Of course, I could just buy a melon from the store, but it wouldn’t be one I grew.

Do I have a “passion for melons”? I enjoy eating them and growing them, and I’d like to find a way to produce them year-round. I enjoy selling them too. It would give me great satisfaction to have a supply to deliver to a restaurant in January, as sweet and tender as their July counterparts.

Recent setbacks can’t take away my drive to produce melons, because I’m happiest when I’m growing them. Coming back from the field with a wheelbarrow full of ripe fruit gives me a feeling of accomplishment and purpose.

To know that others are enjoying these melons, and that I’ve grown them sustainably, makes me feel as if I’ve done something good. I have to grow melons. It’s just what I do.

Vine-ripe melons from Marshall Hinsley's trial hydroponic crop.

Photo of ripe melons of wooden table
Photo by Marshall Hinsley
Vine-ripe melons from Marshall Hinsley's trial hydroponic crop.
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Spring Arrival

West Dallas gets new Spanish-Peruvian restaurant with big-name chef

Luciana Gomez
Sep 18, 2026 | 4:27 pm
Ulloa's
Photo courtesy of Ulloa's
Paella will be on the menu.

A new restaurant with a high-profile culinary director will bring Spanish and Peruvian flavors to West Dallas: Called Ulloa’s, it is coming to 727 Fort Worth Ave., with a projected opening in March 2027.

The concept is from philanthropists Susan and Woodrow Gandy, who were previously investors in the historic Belmont Hotel just around the corner. They've teamed up with Dallas celebrity chef Kent Rathbun as culinary director, along with Christopher Tunnell as general manager to lead the front of the house.

Rathbun is a name Dallas diners know well, with a resume that includes The Mansion on Turtle Creek, the Landmark Restaurant at the historic Melrose Hotel, Seventeen Seventeen at the Dallas Museum of Art, Abacus, Jasper's, Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, and more. He's won numerous awards and made multiple appearances on Food Network. He was most recently behind the launch of On The Rocks, an Italian bistro in Burleson.

Kent Rathbun Chef Kent Rathbun will be the culinary director of Ulloa's. Photo courtesy of Kent Rathbun

Tunnell’s background spans both culinary direction and front-of-house operations. He worked at Los Angeles hot spots Ketchup, Geisha House, and Les Deux, as well as the Mandalay Bay and The Mirage in Las Vegas, before moving to Dallas to open The Mexican, the upscale restaurant in the Design District.

“I am truly excited to partner with Chef Kent Rathbun, whose reputation is amazing — not only in the DFW Metroplex, but in the culinary world,” Tunnell says. “He has been with this project since the beginning, helping develop it; this will be a very chef-driven, culinary-forward restaurant.”

The team's vision for Ulloa’s is both culinary and urban, with hopes of anchoring the corridor and attracting other businesses to Fort Worth Avenue — a stretch connecting downtown Dallas with Oak Cliff that remains somewhat underdeveloped despite its panoramic skyline views.

The restaurant is named for Spanish explorer, astronomer, and scientist Antonio de Ulloa, who spent extensive time in the Mexican peninsula before becoming Louisiana’s first governor. During his travels, Ulloa documented a fogbow — a circular rainbow formed when sunlight meets mist that causes silhouettes standing between the sun and fog to appear ringed in light, a phenomenon known today as “Ulloa’s Rings.”

That vibrant phenomenon inspired both the restaurant's identity and logo. The concept promises "bold, worldly flavors in a welcoming neighborhood setting inspired by exploration and discovery,” the owners say.

Ulloa's Rendering of Ulloa's.Rendering courtesy of Ulloa's

While the menu remains in development, Tunnell describes the culinary direction as “Spanish soul with a Peruvian heart.” The kitchen will merge the coastal flavors of both traditions — ranging from paellas and ceviches to crafted cocktails and signature adaptations by Rathbun.

The 200-seat, two-story space will feature a downstairs dining room, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. Upstairs, plans call for a secondary bar, a private dining room, a patio, and an expansive balcony patio, offering views of the city's skyline and of the Margaret Hunt Hill and Margaret McDermott bridges.

While the upstairs space will be available for private events, the owners intend for it to operate primarily as an organic extension of the main restaurant. The buildout will include a guest elevator along with ample parking, including both self-parking and valet options.

The team says the restaurant will have have an aesthetic that's “warm, theatrical, generous, elegant but alive, with the energy of a great Spanish tapas bar and the soul of Peruvian hospitality.”

Ulloa’s plans to launch with dinner service first, followed by lunch and weekend brunch.

restaurants bars peruvian flavors west dallas oak cliff kent rathbun
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