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The Farmer Diaries

Rainfall in thick of drought revives North Texas farm

Marshall Hinsley
Jun 29, 2014 | 6:00 am

A windfall of rain in the last half of June, including nearly three inches of rain in one week, has made gardens across North Texas come alive. My squash and zucchini plants — no bigger than basketballs a few weeks ago — are now as large as beanbag chairs. Okra plants that were a foot tall on Father's Day come up to my waist, topped with foliage so dense that it hides the ground along the rows. The spacing between my Israeli melon plantings was clear and wide two weeks ago; now it is filled with sprawling vines.

Watering from the tap can't compare to rainfall. Not even rainwater stored in barrels seems to enliven crops as well.

I used to suspect that rainfall was superior because of its nitrogen content, absorbed from the atmosphere as raindrops fall through the air. Through my study of hydroponics, though, I've learned that the benefit of rainfall is that it's highly oxygenated; plant roots need oxygen as much as they do moisture.

Watering from the tap can't compare to rainfall. Not even rainwater stored in barrels seems to enliven crops as well.

Beyond the obvious relief such precipitation brought to my crops, it gave me time to do more of the tasks that pile up each year as priorities lie elsewhere. Because the rain fell in sessions every few days, I was released from my daily, three-hour watering routine. The time I'd have spent pulling a water hose around and moistening the soil under all my plants was put to better use: I repaired a few damaged raised beds, weeded, potted up some flowers and simply relaxed.

As beneficial as the rain has been, there are casualties. The few tomato plants that survived my unwitting neglect got doused. Fruit that was ready to ripen ended up splitting open from the sudden infusion of moisture in the soil. Out in the field of row crops, my father had only harvested half of the potatoes that were ready to be uncovered. If the soil does not dry out soon enough, the other half may rot in the ground.

In the grip of a continuing drought that has spread across most of the region, these few losses to an abundant rain are nothing to complain about. Farming always involves winning with some crops and losing with others.

After the storms moved on and sunny skies returned, my crops were loaded with a fresh wave of produce to harvest. My father spent two days picking black-eyed peas. Soy beans yielded enough of a harvest to fill half a rain barrel. Okra, eggplant, squash and cucumbers rolled in.

There's plenty of produce left to harvest throughout the rest of the growing season, and the value what has been picked so far has already covered this year's investment. From now on until the first frost, the rest of the pickings are free.

A little under 3 inches of rain renewed Marshall Hinsley's crops in the last weeks of June.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
A little under 3 inches of rain renewed Marshall Hinsley's crops in the last weeks of June.
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Spring Arrival

West Dallas gets new Spanish-Peruvian restaurant with big-name chef

Luciana Gomez
Sep 18, 2026 | 4:27 pm
Ulloa's
Photo courtesy of Ulloa's
Paella will be on the menu.

A new restaurant with a high-profile culinary director will bring Spanish and Peruvian flavors to West Dallas: Called Ulloa’s, it is coming to 727 Fort Worth Ave., with a projected opening in March 2027.

The concept is from philanthropists Susan and Woodrow Gandy, who were previously investors in the historic Belmont Hotel just around the corner. They've teamed up with Dallas celebrity chef Kent Rathbun as culinary director, along with Christopher Tunnell as general manager to lead the front of the house.

Rathbun is a name Dallas diners know well, with a resume that includes The Mansion on Turtle Creek, the Landmark Restaurant at the historic Melrose Hotel, Seventeen Seventeen at the Dallas Museum of Art, Abacus, Jasper's, Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, and more. He's won numerous awards and made multiple appearances on Food Network. He was most recently behind the launch of On The Rocks, an Italian bistro in Burleson.

Kent Rathbun Chef Kent Rathbun will be the culinary director of Ulloa's. Photo courtesy of Kent Rathbun

Tunnell’s background spans both culinary direction and front-of-house operations. He worked at Los Angeles hot spots Ketchup, Geisha House, and Les Deux, as well as the Mandalay Bay and The Mirage in Las Vegas, before moving to Dallas to open The Mexican, the upscale restaurant in the Design District.

“I am truly excited to partner with Chef Kent Rathbun, whose reputation is amazing — not only in the DFW Metroplex, but in the culinary world,” Tunnell says. “He has been with this project since the beginning, helping develop it; this will be a very chef-driven, culinary-forward restaurant.”

The team's vision for Ulloa’s is both culinary and urban, with hopes of anchoring the corridor and attracting other businesses to Fort Worth Avenue — a stretch connecting downtown Dallas with Oak Cliff that remains somewhat underdeveloped despite its panoramic skyline views.

The restaurant is named for Spanish explorer, astronomer, and scientist Antonio de Ulloa, who spent extensive time in the Mexican peninsula before becoming Louisiana’s first governor. During his travels, Ulloa documented a fogbow — a circular rainbow formed when sunlight meets mist that causes silhouettes standing between the sun and fog to appear ringed in light, a phenomenon known today as “Ulloa’s Rings.”

That vibrant phenomenon inspired both the restaurant's identity and logo. The concept promises "bold, worldly flavors in a welcoming neighborhood setting inspired by exploration and discovery,” the owners say.

Ulloa's Rendering of Ulloa's.Rendering courtesy of Ulloa's

While the menu remains in development, Tunnell describes the culinary direction as “Spanish soul with a Peruvian heart.” The kitchen will merge the coastal flavors of both traditions — ranging from paellas and ceviches to crafted cocktails and signature adaptations by Rathbun.

The 200-seat, two-story space will feature a downstairs dining room, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. Upstairs, plans call for a secondary bar, a private dining room, a patio, and an expansive balcony patio, offering views of the city's skyline and of the Margaret Hunt Hill and Margaret McDermott bridges.

While the upstairs space will be available for private events, the owners intend for it to operate primarily as an organic extension of the main restaurant. The buildout will include a guest elevator along with ample parking, including both self-parking and valet options.

The team says the restaurant will have have an aesthetic that's “warm, theatrical, generous, elegant but alive, with the energy of a great Spanish tapas bar and the soul of Peruvian hospitality.”

Ulloa’s plans to launch with dinner service first, followed by lunch and weekend brunch.

restaurants bars peruvian flavors west dallas oak cliff kent rathbun
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