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    Steakhouse Does Salad

    Knife may be a modern steakhouse but chef John Tesar doesn't scrimp on salads

    Teresa Gubbins
    May 19, 2014 | 2:45 pm

    Hotel Palomar's new restaurant Knife, starring celebrity chef and Top Chef contestant John Tesar, may be a steakhouse dedicated to rare and exotic cuts of meat. But like any steakhouse, it has an equally serious commitment to vegetable side dishes and salads, and we are here today to celebrate those salads.

    The restaurant opened discreetly. "We kept a lid on the reservations — we wanted to allow for a few locals to walk in," Tesar says, even as the restaurant faced a busy Sunday night.

    A collaboration between Tesar and Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, Knife takes the steakhouse model that Dallas knows and loves and brings it to 2014. That means unusual cuts of meat; steak sold by the inch; and a custom-built aging room where steaks are aged for 240 days, which is practically a year.

    "I want to give people a little of what they expect from a traditional steakhouse but also surprise them with specialty cuts you rarely find, cooked in unique ways," Tesar says.

    "I want to give people a little of what they expect from a traditional steakhouse but also surprise them with specialty cuts you rarely find, cooked in unique ways," Tesar says.

    Although the layout of the dining room hasn't changed, almost everything else has, including decor conceived by Tesar and executed by design firm Breckinridge/Taylor. Keeping the hotel's aesthetic in mind but still showcasing Knife's personal identity, the decor injects a modern sophistication into traditional steakhouse elements with rich fabrics, rustic chandeliers and wood paneling.

    The decor is warmer and more quintessentially Texan, with leather-like fabrics that are draped over the bar stools and a couple of chairs in the bar outfitted in over-the-top animal hide and polished horns. Opening bartender Michael Martensen expects to be there for at least 30 days. The sommelier is Sabrina Snodderly.

    As for the meat aging room, Tesar was inspired by one he saw at Carnevino, Mario Batali's steakhouse in Las Vegas.

    "I asked [executive chef] Nicole Brisson, 'Do you mind just showing me how this works?'" Tesar says, as he enters the room to have his photo taken inside. He offers a quick caution before stepping into the room. "We had to bleach this whole place down, and we have to keep it clean, so be careful with your shoes."

    He predicts that keeping a supply of steaks aged that long will be difficult, and he expects that he'll have to mete out the portions carefully.

    The salads exhibit the same wild abandon his salads did at his now-closed One Arts Plaza restaurant The Commissary. The house/garden salad features butter lettuce with radishes sliced paper-thin, fresh herbs, a boiled egg cut in half and baby root vegetables smaller than your pinky finger, with their stiff stems still attached. You pick them up by the stem to eat, then set the stem aside — very rustic and sophisticated.

    The watercress salad is similar to a salad he did at The Commissary, but with more Belgian endive and crunchy walnuts. The pea shoots salad is killer, with roughly chopped pea shoots; freeze-dried fresh peas that crackle when you bite them; and a cool, creamy frozen pea sorbet.

    Sides include a tower of onion rings fried in a light and crunchy beer batter, stacked on a spindle in a tree-shaped display similar to that served at Sushi Samba, the Miami-based chain. Everyone gets a complimentary tray of crudites, chopped roughly and casually, lending an appreciated homey touch. Raw radishes, purple and orange carrots, quartered cucumber wedges and Belgian endive are served with house-made green goddess dressing and a thin sheet of peppery house-made beef jerky.

    "You have to have that for the meatheads," Tesar says.

    Watercress salad is also on the menu at Knife.

    Knife, salad
      
    Photo by Marc Lee
    Watercress salad is also on the menu at Knife.
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    Coffee News

    Dallas' popular Italian coffee shop Palmieri Cafe to open in Plano

    Teresa Gubbins
    Jun 5, 2025 | 10:42 am
    palmieri cafe coffee
    Palmieri Cafe
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    An artisan coffee shop from Dallas is expanding northward: Palmieri Café, known for its authentic Italian approach to coffee, is brewing a location in Plano at 2024 W 15th St. #G, in a former Starbucks, where it will open in late summer.

    Palmieri was founded by owner Corrado Palmieri, a native of Italy who opened the first location at the Dallas Farmers Market in 2016. He takes a classic approach to the concept of a coffee shop, providing amenities like on-site seating, as well as an array of sweet and savory pastries and gelato, all made in-house.

    It's a departure from the direction coffee has been headed in the past few years. DFW has been besieged by an influx of chains offering drive-thru only with an emphasis on convenience — names like 7 Brew, Black Rock, 151 Coffee, Dutch Bros., PJ's, Scooter's, and Human Bean. Even Starbucks, the gold standard, has shifted away from cafes where you can go and sit and towards more drive-thrus.

    That's how Corrado ended up scoring the location: Starbucks closed it to open another one nearby that is drive-thru only.

    "Part of my plan has been to open more than one location and bring what we do to different neighborhoods," he says. That included opening a second location in Bishop Arts in 2022. Plano felt like destiny, he says.

    "What brought me to Plano is that my wife has family there, so we lived in Plano for a few years right near that Starbucks, and I would pass the location every day," he says. "It was always on my mind."

    When it became available, he met with the landlord who supported what Palmieri Cafe was about. "He came to see my other locations and understood what I was doing," Corrado says.

    Palmieri Cafe is noted for its old-school hospitality as well as its policy of making everything, including his Italian-style menu items, in-house. Corrado doesn't spend much time on social media or marketing his place — he keeps his focus on overseeing operations day-to-day.

    The menu includes coffee, espresso drinks, gelato, and pastries, including their signature pasticciotto, a short-crust pastry stuffed with a warm custard, originally from Galatina, Corrado’s hometown in Puglia.

    "Authenticity is one of the values of Palmieri Cafe and everything has been thought with that in my mind and heart, including making everything naturally, without preservatives or chemicals, and making everything — pastries, gelato, and coffee — from scratch," he says.

    There are calzones with different fillings including tomato sauce and mozzarella, beef with parmesan, and chicken with spinach and green olives; as well as the Rustico, another puff pastry with tomato and mozzarella, or ricotta and spinach.

    He's currently outfitting the 1,650-square-foot space with multiple tables, a couch, and his tasteful decorative flair - "it will be a place where people can spend time," he says.

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