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    Where the Wine Drinkers Are

    Calais Winery in Deep Ellum draws Dallas oenophiles with rare tasting

    Teresa Gubbins
    Nov 8, 2013 | 5:14 pm

    If you want to be where the oenophiles are, head to Calais Winery on Saturday, November 9, from 3 to 6 pm. That's when this small winery in Deep Ellum will host a rare side-by-side tasting of its two most recent Bordeaux blends, the 2010 and the 2011.

    Both releases are special: The 2011 is brand new, and the 2010 is entirely sold out. As in, you can't buy it anymore.

    The 2011 Bordeaux is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, all from Newsom Vineyards in Plains, Texas. With only 50 cases produced, it's a very limited release. Calais has only released a Bordeaux three out of the past six years.

    "The Bordeaux is our most expensive wine, and if it isn't good, we won't make it every year," says owner Benjamin Calais.

    "The Bordeaux is our most expensive wine, and if it isn't good, we won't make it every year," says Benjamin Calais, who owns the winery with his wife, Melynn. The 2011 came out of unusual circumstances.

    "2011 was the year we had a big drought, over 100 degrees," he says. "It was so dry that we ended up harvesting only 15 to 20 percent of our grapes. But the little bit that was left was unbelievable.

    "Every wine from 2011 has been a beautiful wine. We lost a lot of yield, but the drought had some positive aspects. The wines ripened evenly, and they're beautiful and dark."

    Newsom Vineyards is located on the New Mexico border, southwest of Lubbock. Calais says that it's one of the most expensive and best grapes in Texas.

    "They have better elevation," he says. "Their yield is low so people don't want to pay the costs to farm out there. But the wine has more fruit, more berries. It's a higher-quality wine."

    In addition to the 2011 Bordeaux, Calais is also releasing an unusual white that's a signature for the winery, the 2012 vintage Roussanne. "It's probably our best-selling wine, because it's the one we have more of, and it's more reliable," he says.

    The 2011 will be available by the glass for $12 and by the bottle for $48. The Roussanne will be available for $8 a glass and $22.17 for a bottle.

    Calais Winery is unique in that it uses Texas fruit combined with its owner's expertise as a native of France. The tasting room is open every Friday and Saturday and by appointment the rest of the week.

    The winery opened in Deep Ellum during a time when the neighborhood was almost at rock bottom. Now Calais is surrounded by neighbors such as Deep Ellum Postal & Grocer and Monkey King Noodle Co.

    "We're happy to see them, and it is bringing more traffic into our area," Calais says. "But we still don't see a lot of people walking from one spot to another. That's something that isn't happening yet."

    Calais Winery, which makes wine from Texas grapes, is relocating from Deep Ellum to Hye, Texas.

    Calais Winery in Dallas
    Calais Winery Facebook
    Calais Winery, which makes wine from Texas grapes, is relocating from Deep Ellum to Hye, Texas.
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    news/restaurants-bars
    series/dtx-tastes-of-the-season

    Sushi News

    Frisco sushi restaurant Hinoki does a slimmed-down twist on omakase

    Thanin Viriyaki
    Nov 14, 2025 | 3:59 pm
    Hinoki
    Thanin Viriyaki
    Hinoki

    A new sushi restaurant has debuted in Frisco with a mini version of omakase: Called Hinoki, it's open for lunch and dinner at 8050 Preston Rd. #106, in a space previously occupied by another short-lived Asian restaurant called Imura, and is serving seafood both raw and cooked.

    Hinoki is from chef Leo Kekoa, who previously worked for the acclaimed Nobu chain and who also owns the well-regarded Kinzo Sushi in north Frisco, which he opened in 2022 to bring the omakase experience to Frisco and save them a drive to Dallas.

    Omakase is the dining experience in which the chef prepares a multi-course tasting menu of small bites made to order, often at a premium price. While omakase has no set number of dishes, it usually ranges from 10 to 20 courses depending on how excessive the chef/restaurant is.

    Hinoki offers a concise version on the omakase experience with a more manageable six courses for $75, as well as an a la carte menu featuring sushi, hot items, and composed bentos boxes for lunch.

    Hinoki sushi HinokiThanin Viriyaki

    "Kinzo is my fine-dining omakase restaurant," Kekoa says. "Hinoki is designed as its more casual counterpart — still rooted in discipline and detail, but more accessible."

    Kekoa created the menu but he says it’s a team effort, with two veteran chefs: Chikau "Harry" Kikuchi, who brings 25-plus years of experience to the sushi counter (he and Kekoa worked together at Nobu); and chef Sachiko, presiding over the hot line and overseeing the preparation of Hinoki's home-style and regional Japanese dishes.

    No sushi restaurant can ignore basics like the spicy tuna roll, California roll, dragon roll, and shrimp tempura roll, but Hinoki also has a few of distinctive rolls such as the Kumo roll with crab, avocado, and chipotle aioli, wrapped in soy paper, which has a pleasing texture that's a little more toothsome than the standard crisp seaweed wrapper.

    There are creative bowls as the Sake Dashi, featuring sushi-grade raw salmon, Asian pear, crushed marcona almonds, yuzu shirodashi, and truffle oil; and hot dishes such as miso black cod, teriyaki salmon, and Kushiyaki: grilled chicken thigh, kurobuta sausage, and shishito pepper on skewers. Most items average about $20.

    Kekoa calls his lunch offering "honest and efficient."

    "We’re bringing back the Japanese bento [referring to the cute boxed lunch with compartments for courses], such as our chirashi bento with fish, sushi rolls, and seaweed salad," he says.

    Kekoa lives in Frisco and is bullish on his hometown.

    "With Universal Studios on the way and PGA nearby, I believe this city deserves a neighborhood sushi spot done right," he says. "I want Hinoki to bring fine-dining service at a price more people can enjoy."

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