Red Meat Either Way
Tim Love trades burgers for steaks with new Queenie's Steakhouse in Denton
Where there was once burgers, there is now steak. Chef Tim Love opened Queenie's Steakhouse, his latest concept, on April 4 in Denton, in what was previously a branch of Love's burger concept, Love Shack.
"I think this is the perfect fit for Denton," says Love. "I have always thought Denton needed a high-end steak house."
Love says he always intended to open a steakhouse in the space at 115 E. Hickory St., but the timing and economy seemed off when he was planning to open two years ago. The last steakhouse that existed in downtown Denton was Burgundy's, which closed about four years ago. Queenie's hours are limited: just three nights for dinner, Thursday-Saturday, and Friday for lunch.
Queenie's is named for Love's mother, Margaret; Queenie is her nickname. The place has a large patio, a peaked ceiling with strings of lights, plus high-placed windows that let in lots of natural light. Broad planks of repurposed wood cover the walls and the bar.
The menu feels like a steakhouse, but one that strays slightly off the beaten path. It incorporates dishes from Love's other two concepts, Lonesome Dove Bistro and Woodshed Smokehouse, such as pheasant, quail and house-made sausage.
There are eight appetizers; some salads, pasta and soups; and seven sides such as truffle mac and cheese, grilled cauliflower, and creamed spinach and kale. Sides run from $8 to $15 for a side of roasted mushrooms that sounds similar to a dish at Woodshed. Appetizers include spicy lobster salad, shrimp cocktail, grilled oysters, chicken-fried quail legs, and a house-made sausage of the day.
One amusing category called "Texas vegetarian" consists of meat items that are not red meat: pheasant chop, pork porterhouse, lamb chops, grilled halibut and chicken-fried whole lobster for $50. The one true vegetarian item is a sweet potato-red onion chile relleno.
Steaks comprise four wet-aged cuts and two dry-aged. New York strip, rib-eye and beef tenderloin are sold by the ounce: $2.50 per ounce for the strip, $2.60 for the tenderloin, and $3.80 for the rib-eye. There is a tomahawk for two for $85, a Love signature also featured at Lonesome Dove.