Oak Cliff News

COVID-19 strikes fatal blow to chef restaurant Victor Hugo in Oak Cliff

They were known for their chef-driven fare and weekend brunch.

Courtesy of Victor Hugo

An independently owned restaurant in Dallas' Oak Cliff has been felled by the cursed pandemic: Victor Hugo's, the New American bistro at 1115 N. Beckley Ave., will close for good on May 30.

Husband-and-wife Victor Hugo and Brianna Ruelas made the difficult decision to close after nearly seven years in business.

"The pandemic took a heavy toll on the restaurant industry, and our family-owned business held on as long as we could," Hugo said in a statement.

Victor Hugo's was the quintessential neighborhood restaurant, earning a following for its chef-driven food with a menu that included quesadillas with brie, bacon, and mushroom; Akaushi beef tenderloin tips with tagliatelle pasta, mushrooms, English peas; and Texas wagyu burger on a kaiser roll with bacon, fontina, and avocado.

Hugo worked primarily for the Lombardi's group at Bistro 31 in Highland Park Village, before founding his own place, in a location next to Johnathan's and Spiral Diner that had been home to a variety of restaurants such as Outpost Tavern and an Argentinian restaurant called La Carreta, before VH brought some continuity.

Ruelas says that, despite the fact that COVID-19 seems to have slightly turned the corner, it was too little too late.

"Things were looking up, but the damage has been done," she says. "It's been such an uphill battle, and we're about to hit the summer. You know what Dallas summers look like for restaurants. Everyone travels."

"But that's just part of it," she says. "The pandemic really hit us hard. We're a small joint off the beaten path. People have to know about us to come. We just weren't able to sustain through the pandemic."

The couple, who live in Richardson, already had another restaurant in the works, which they'd originally planned to open in 2019. They'd completed about 75 percent of the construction when COVID-19 hit.

"Victor wants to get closer to home in Richardson," Ruelas says. "We hope to eventually open in Richardson, but we don't even know what that's going to look like. Things have changed so dramatically in the industry right now. The pandemic is forcing everyone to get a little more creative and approach things differently."

That includes a big increase in catering and private events.

"He's been getting lots of requests for in-home dinners and that'll on the docket for this summer, along with taking some downtime to reassess things and see where he's ready to put his energy," she says. "He will be doing something in the restaurant industry in some form or fashion, it's just a matter of what and where and maybe it looks a little different."

In the meantime, VH fans have until May 30 to stop in for brunch and a toast.

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Burger News

Fun family-owned Big Mike's Bar and Grill from TV star debuts in Plano

Tommy LeBeouf

Big burger from Big Mike's in Plano

A charming family-owned restaurant with TV star ties has debuted in Plano. Called Big Mike’s Bar and Grill, it's an elevated sports bar that just opened at 3200 Alma Dr., in a former Pancho's Mexican Buffet where it's serving tasty Angus burgers and beer-battered onion rings, hand-battered in-house.

Big Mike's is from husband-and-wife Mike Cancelmi and Jennie Marie; she gained fame as the star of the 2018 TLC show Mama Medium. The couple is from Rochester, New York, but fell in love with the Dallas area with their four sons after visiting a friend in 2021.

Their signature Big Mike's burger is a biggie: a half-pound patty with cheddar, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and a fried egg on a brioche bun, served with choice of hand-cut fries, tater tots, or sweet potato fries, for $18.

They bring their Northeast influence with dishes such as a Reuben sandwich with corned beef on marble rye, and their own version of poutine, the Canadian specialty, which they make with fries, cheese curds, brown gravy, and thick-cut crumbled bacon.

One dish reflects their hometown roots: Called the Trash Plate, it's inspired by the Garbage Plate, a sloppy comfort food dish that's the unofficial signature dish of the city of Rochester.

Big Mike's version combines macaroni salad, home fries, and choice of hot dogs from Rochester-based Zweigle’s (which they fly in from New York), or two smash burger patties with hot sauce, mustard, and onions.

Their menu also features a few entree items like NY strip steak, their priciest item at $35, served with garlic mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts; and chicken-fried steak with mashed potatoes and green beans for $24. Portions are abundant.

Big Mike's family: Mike and Jennie Marie and their four sons.Big Mike's

“I created the menu based on things I like to eat," Mike says. "Everything we make is made from scratch, the way I would do it if I was cooking for my friends."

They host weekend brunch on Saturday and Sunday until 2 pm with a cinnamon roll skillet, frittatas, avocado toast, and a hash version of the Garbage Plate with home fries, mac salad, onions, diced Zweigle's hot dogs, eggs, and meat hot sauce. There are mimosas — they have a full bar — and they also do a daily happy hour from 3-6 pm with appetizer specials and domestic beers for $3.50.

Mike's background as a former contractor can be seen in the restaurant's spiffy remodel. The space sits 270, with enough room to host events that include karaoke every Wednesday, live music during brunch, and a ticketed group psychic event where Jennie Marie draws from her TV show days, performing readings and mediumship, with food and drink.

The restaurant has a wonderful family-oriented atmosphere. Many of their employees are friends of their sons from school or ice hockey, giving the restaurant a comfortable, homey vibe.

“We try to visit every table — that personal touch is important to us," Jennie Marie says. "We want that hometown feel, get people what they want so they come back."

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