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The Farmer Diaries

Texas organic farmer battles mightier foe than weeds in his own backyard

Marshall Hinsley
Apr 28, 2013 | 6:00 am

In the early 1900s, a local rancher wrote a letter to the editor of the Waxahachie Daily Light, wherein he called an Ellis County agricultural agent a "fool" whose opinions were "hogwash." Apparently, the agent had questioned the rancher's practice of planting a Mediterranean grass called johnsongrass.

The rancher was using johnsongrass as a cheap forage crop for his livestock and didn't take kindly to the agent's warning. He was going to plant it, and no one could tell him otherwise.

Now, two centuries after it was introduced to America, johnsongrass is one of the top 10 worst weeds in the country. Around Dallas, it grows anywhere a lawnmower hasn't been in a while.

Johnsongrass is one of the top 10 worst weeds in the country. Wherever it's left to grow, soon nothing else will.

It’s easy to spot: It grows up to 5 feet tall, with long, sharp, blade-like leaves projecting up and outward from a thick stalk. At the top, airy heads of reddish-brown seeds appear in summer; it resembles wheat. Wherever it's left to grow, soon nothing else will.

Of the 45 acres available to me to grow my own fruits and vegetables and opt out of the unsustainable practices of industrialized agriculture, at least half is occupied by johnsongrass. So, from now until the first frost in November, I will spend most of my days trying to keep this weed under control.

My raised beds are full of it. My area for peas, beans and onions looks more like a field of johnsongrass than crops.

Weeding out the good from the bad
Johnsongrass is the most persistent of weeds, but there are other weeds crowding out my vegetables too. For the organic grower, weed control boils down to manual labor: hoeing, pulling, tilling, mowing. I don't enjoy any of these activities, so wherever I can, I lay down landscaping fabric that blocks out sunlight and creates a weed barrier.

The barrier is like a 6-foot-wide carpet that keeps the pathways between my beds weed-free. This year, I'm even experimenting and placing it between mounds of cantaloupe. It's a lot of fabric, but it can be used year after year, and the expense gets spread out over time.

Lately, I've discovered bastard cabbage growing in the field. Though not as troublesome as johnsongrass, it does threaten to overtake the bluebonnets, Indian blanket and prairie larkspur that we allow to grow in the ditch banks and in designated wildflower fields. Bastard cabbage's introduction from Europe to Texas roadways and pastures is suspected to have come by way of contaminated grass seed mixes. I keep an eye out for it and hoe it down before it spreads out of control.

There are a few weeds, though, that I’m not touching. At the base of the raised beds, I’m allowing primrose, cloth-of-gold and Venus' looking-glass to grow where it will. Butterflies and bees love these flowers. In the beds, milkweed gets a pass because it's essential for the development of monarch butterflies.

Weedmaster is a herbicide left over from the days of Agent Orange. There it was, being sprayed into the air I breathe and onto the plants I’m growing.

As a matter of fact, I've begun to experiment with propagating milkweed, to help counter its widespread eradication by farmers who spray weed killer by the tanker full. Industrial ag's practice of total weed elimination has been implicated in the recent decimation of monarch butterflies who are no longer able to find milkweed along their migration routes through North America.

Where milkweed once flourished and the monarchs laid their eggs, only fields of genetically engineered crops grow now, doused in chemicals.

A little bit of Weedmaster
In late April, as I tended my garden plot during an especially peaceful sunset, the quiet was broken by the arrival of a huge yellow-and-black spray truck that stopped in front of my garden. The driver turned into the field across the road and spread out the truck's retractable spraying arms. Seconds later, he let loose a huge gaseous cloud of chemicals no further from me than a pitcher is from a batter at home plate.

It was an employee of a nearby ranch, and he was spraying a field that's used to grow hay. I had my camera and started snapping a few photos as evidence; if my garden plants curled up and died the next day, I would need photos for court. Soon, a red truck pulled up to me; it was the rancher associated with the spraying.

"You worried about the sprays?" he asked.

"Not too worried – I’m sure you're just fertilizing," I said, with enough question in my voice to provoke a response.

"Yeah, fertilizer, and a little bit of Weedmaster," he offered. "But it won’t hurt anything."

On the contrary, Weedmaster is a herbicide also referred to as 2,4-D. It's a leftover from the days of Agent Orange and is linked to cancer, cell damage, hormonal interference and reproductive problems. There it was, being sprayed into the air I breathe and potentially drifting onto the plants I’m growing.

I remained congenial with the rancher during our brief interaction, suppressing my urge to protest the dangers to which he was subjecting me. I wanted to let him know how I felt about him placing my crops in jeopardy and the economic loss it could cause. I wanted to tell him that he was engaging in the same activity that's destroying butterfly populations and poisoning our land and groundwater. But I didn't. I've had enough experience to know that ranchers don't listen to environmentalist fools and their alarmist hogwash.

A monarch butterfly caterpillar feeds on a milkweed blossom.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
A monarch butterfly caterpillar feeds on a milkweed blossom.
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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

---

This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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