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    The New Restaurant Lingo

    Top 10 suggestions for lingo that Dallas Morning News critic Leslie Brenner might adopt

    Teresa Gubbins
    Apr 28, 2014 | 1:53 pm

    Congratulations are in order for Lockhart Smokehouse in Plano, which recently received a gushing review from the Dallas Morning News. Critic Leslie Brenner risked exposure to a tornado in order to "moan and snortle" over the tender brisket being served at this spin-off of the original branch in Bishop Arts.

    "Nearly everything sold at the Plano Lockhart is delicious," reads the review, which exhibited Brenner's trademark disinterest in qualifying her judgments. Her reviews are thoughtful; they don't bog down the reader with tedious, mundane details of how the food actually tastes.

    Instead they offer simple, to-the-point pronouncements, such as "the prime rib special had good flavor" or "the smoked chicken is excellent." Good, excellent, that's all you need to know.

    But the review had a casual reference to one curious dish:

    They’d run out of burned ends, but the gentleman slicing the meats generously tossed in a gorgeous crusty knob on the end of the brisket that delivered the same kind of chewy, barky, caramelized happiness.

    For now we'll skip past the twee ambiguity of calling any dish "happiness" and go straight to "burned ends." It doesn't sound appetizing; surely no one wants anything that's burned?

    Could she possibly be referring to the famous dish called "burnt ends," which Wikipedia describes as "the flavorful pieces of meat cut from the point half of a smoked brisket" that are a "traditional part of Kansas City barbecue"?

    "Burned ends? No, it's burnt ends, that's b-u-r-n-t," spells out Juan Richardson at LC's Bar-B-Q, the Kansas City, Missouri restaurant cited most often as having the best example of this famous barbecue offering.

    We already know that barbecue is not her forte. And everyone makes mistakes. Which this definitely is. A mistake, that is.

    Or maybe not? On April 17, barbecue blogger Cody Neathery tweeted a response to her review:

    @DFWBBQ Yes, so important to copy everyone else's lingo! :-)

    — Leslie Brenner (@lesbren) April 17, 2014

    Huh. So the 47,000-plus citations of "burnt ends" on Google are all just "lingo"? Because two weeks after the review came out, it still reads "burned ends."

    This staunch individualism, this bold stance in the face of overwhelming consensus, inspired us. It is like Linda Ronstadt, traveling to the beat of a different drum. To that end, we've devised a list of some common food "lingo" and our suggested variations that Les-Bren can use in the future:

    Medium rare
    The way many people order steak. When you think about it, though, it's not really rare. Lots of people order their steak that way. LB suggestion: "Medium unusual."

    Apple pie
    It's the classic American dessert. But is it brainy enough? LB suggestion: "Apple 3.14."

    Hash browns
    Potatoes are shredded and fried until golden. But nobody likes the word brown. LB suggestion: "Hash beiges."

    Baked Alaska
    Fancy dessert has an ice cream cake in the center, covered with a shell of meringue. But who died and made Alaska king? LB suggestion: "Baked Pinata." Burnt, burned, Alaska, pinata.

    Mahi mahi
    Popular white fish with a repetitive name. LB suggestion: "That's Mr. Mahi to you, buster."

    Bacon and eggs
    Classic breakfast combination. But the name's so pedestrian, so "done." LB suggestion: "Bacon and Uggs." They're still fashionable!

    Peach cobbler
    Made with Texas peaches, it's a favorite dessert with a local provenance. But "cobbler" sounds blue collar. LB suggestion: "Peach Manolo."

    Chicken and waffles
    One of the hottest menu items pairing savory fried chicken atop a sweet, crisp waffle. That said, isn't the name a bit "obvious"? LB suggestion: "Chicken and walrus."

    Surf and turf
    Popular at steakhouses (or as LB might call them, "steak abodes"), surf and turf takes one animal from the sea and one from the land — often steak and lobster. But surf and turf is so matchy-matchy. LB suggestion: "Surf and xeriscaping."

    Pigs in a blanket
    A tubesteak of some kind is wrapped in dough and baked so that its edges peek out on each side. But is the blanket warm enough? LB suggestion: "Pigs in a wind-proof, breathable, wicking Gore-Tex parka."

    Burned ends or burnt ends, whatever you call 'em, they look mighty fine.

    Burnt ends
    Photo by Dax Phillips
    Burned ends or burnt ends, whatever you call 'em, they look mighty fine.
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    Taco News

    California restaurant Casa Comal debuts in Irving with standout tacos

    Teresa Gubbins
    Jul 21, 2026 | 5:09 pm
    Casa Comal Irving
    Casa Comal
    Shrimp taco at Casa Comal in Irving

    A restaurant from the West Coast with a fresh approach to Mexican food has made its Dallas-area debut: Casa Comal Cocina, a Mexican restaurant founded in Santa Barbara in 2021, has opened at Cypress Waters in Irving, at 8701 Cypress Waters Blvd. #150, in the former Chilli Thai space, with a menu that is decidedly not run-of-the-mill.

    Casa Comal, whose roots lie in Mexico City, specializes in tacos, with a wide variety that encompasses everything from traditional Mexico City-style offerings like carnitas and al pastor, to upscale tacos like lemon pepper chicken with arugula.

    There's a taco filled with pork rinds, green sauce, and rice; quesa-birria, the trendy taco with shredded beef and crisped jack cheese; and taco Sonora with carne asada and a cheese-stuffed Anaheim pepper.

    Seafood tacos include shrimp and tempura-fried fish; and there are vegetarian options such as zucchini with corn, or hibiscus flower with mushrooms — two ingredients commonly used in vegetarian tacos.

    Everything's served on corn tortillas which they make in-house. With a few exceptions such as the shrimp tacos for $7.75, most of the tacos are $5.75.

    In addition to tacos, there are nachos, quesadillas, empanadas, sopas, gorditas, and a torta sandwich filled with meat, refried beans, lettuce, and tomato. Appetizers include queso fundido, tostadas, and flautas filled with shredded chicken and beans.

    One of their signatures is the "wet burrito" — sort of a cross between a burrito and an enchilada, featuring a burrito covered with choice or red sauce or verde green.

    They also serve a full bar with about 16 cocktails including margaritas, a paloma, and their Mezcal de Pacifico, made with mezcal, coconut water, and lime, says co-owner Bachir Ramadam, who grew up in the Santa Barbara area. He has opened the Irving location with his wife, Elisa, and their partner, Alejandro Vera.

    "We combine traditional preparations with local ingredients for dishes that are authentic to both their Mexican origins while incorporating local flavors," he says. "A lot of the recipes come from my family. My father is from Mexico, and this is the food I grew up with."

    "But we always try to present the plates with a different touch," he says. "A lot of taquerias do tacos with the filling, salsa, and lime, and that's it. We try to do something a little more complex."

    While Irving, Texas is a long way from Santa Barbara, Bachir says they have friends and family here, and are learning the ropes of Tex-Mex, which is more meaty and saucy than what you find on the West Coast.

    "California has good Mexican food, but I've tried some Tex-Mex — we went to a couple restaurants, and I like it," he says. Good answer!

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