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    Booze News

    3 Texas watering holes rank among America's best bars

    Jonathan Rienstra
    May 29, 2013 | 4:57 pm

    In a move that’s sure to ruffle a few Yankee feathers, Esquire’s 2013 list of the best bars in America eschews New York City in favor of the Midwest and beyond. In addition to Bellocq at the Hotel Modern in New Orleans and Williams & Graham in Denver, three Texas bars got a nod.

    Dallas’ Windmill Lounge made the list, along with Cloak Room in Austin and Esquire Tavern in San Antonio.

    Windmill Lounge is a nice, crusty slice of Dallas where they put together seriously good and cheap cocktails.

    About the Windmill Lounge, author David Wondrich writes, “If a comfortable, friendly dive with a jukebox and serious cocktails doesn’t appeal to you, then you have our profoundest sympathies.” He recommends a cheap Cuba Libre or three.

    It’s hard to argue that the Windmill hasn’t earned the accolade. It’s a nice, crusty slice of Dallas where they put together seriously good and cheap cocktails, thanks to Charlie Papaceno. It made our list of the 10 best bars in Dallas for those reasons.

    Austin’s Cloak Room is a curious choice. The tiny subterranean closet mostly inhabited by lawmakers fits maybe 25 people at a time if you’re really determined to get in.

    That’s not to say that Wondrich is wrong in putting it on his list; it’s just that Midnight Cowboy offers a similar kind of mystery in the heart of Sixth Street. Or a place like Yellow Jacket would show off Austin’s vibe.

    Wondrich describes the Cloak Room as a “dark, determinedly unfancy cellar full of booze across the street from the Texas Capitol,” and anyone who has had a Red Rocket there knows that the booze is quite full.

    The Esquire Tavern seems like a lock for Esquire’s list, right? Especially because a renovation in 2008 brought the place back to life. You’ve got the River Walk, some high end cocktails and a classic aesthetic that was painstakingly re-created by the new owner Chris Hill.

    As Wondrich writes, “Despite the scrubbing and the painting and the modernization, the Esquire still feels old — still feels like a place where life has been lived.”

    We can dig it. It certainly helps to explain how San Antonio is the most romantic city in America.

    The Windmill Lounge made Esquire's list of America's best bars.

    Windmill Lounge cockail
    Windmill Lounge Facebook
    The Windmill Lounge made Esquire's list of America's best bars.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    More momentum

    Cafe Momentum scales its mission with new East Dallas flagship

    Luciana Gomez
    Apr 29, 2026 | 3:58 pm
    ​The exterior of the new two-story Cafe Momentum flagship center in East Dallas.
    Rendering courtesy of Cafe Momentum.
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    For over a decade, Cafe Momentum has served as more than just an acclaimed culinary destination in downtown Dallas; it has been a catalyst for kids impacted by the juvenile justice system.

    What began as a bold idea has blossomed into a nationally recognized model for youth empowerment. Now, as the organization prepares to plant its roots in a new East Dallas flagship, the mission is poised to shift from a local success story into a high-speed blueprint for national change.

    Cafe Momentum is building a new two-story, 11,000-square-foot center at 1000 Oak St. at Greenwood Street. The privately funded, $10 million project is scheduled to open in January 2027.

    The new flagship will house the nonprofit's operations and training, as well as its popular restaurant that is open to the public. Regular diners will be glad to know they won't be making any major changes to the menu; it will remain seasonally driven. They might add a Wednesday night dinner offering, they say. And in welcome news, it will have a patio.

    For the massive project, Cafe Momentum partnered with the Meadows Foundation, which provided a 0.8-acre plot in East Dallas. This partnership removes rental costs and places the new flagship in the Wilson Historic District on the Meadows Campus — a hub hosting 33 nonprofits. The structure is being built by Gordon Highlander.

    Cafe Momentum A feast at Cafe Momentum.Photo by Samantha Marie

    A mission with momentum
    The idea behind Cafe Momentum started with Chef Chad Houser back in 2008. While serving as executive chef and co-owner of Parigi, Houser visited a juvenile detention center to teach young men how to make ice cream — an experience that deeply shifted his perception of incarcerated youth, he says. In 2011, he launched a series of pop-up dinners at various Dallas restaurants to test the non-profit restaurant model, eventually opening a permanent location at 1510 Pacific Ave. in January 2015.

    Houser received the Humanitarian of the Year Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2025.

    Cafe Momentum’s mission is to transform lives by equipping justice-involved youth, aged 15 to 19, with life skills, education, and employment opportunities. Participants begin with a 12-month paid internship at the award-winning restaurant, rotating through every station to gain real-world experience and confidence. Because the program requires interns to be enrolled in school — and traditional environments rarely meet their needs — Cafe Momentum created an academy to help participants complete their high school degrees.

    After 10 years downtown, the organization has outgrown its current footprint, its leaders say. While workforce development happens at the restaurant, the other three pillars — 24/7 case management, mental health, and education — are housed at a nearby community center in the Thanksgiving Square underground tunnels. Integrating all four pillars into a single flagship center with the restaurant and the community center both under the same space will streamline operations and deepen their impact, they say.

    Cafe Momentum The restaurant will move from downtown to the new flagship in East Dallas.Rendering courtesy of Cafe Momentum.

    The expansion extends far beyond North Texas. Cafe Momentum opened a second location in Pittsburgh in 2023, followed by Atlanta in 2025, and a Denver site is slated for January 2027. Houser notes that interest from other cities remains high as they continue their national trajectory.

    The impact is even reaching other restaurant groups. The Kansas-based Thrive Restaurant Group studied the model and implemented it in seven of their Wichita locations. After hosting a pop-up with local community and government leaders to demonstrate what is possible, the framework proved so successful that they are now scaling to locations in North Carolina.

    “Scaling for us is a two-fold goal: the opportunity to build our location and also to build a bigger conversation and show people what is possible,” Houser says. “If we can do this in a segment that is so marginalized, think about what we can do in the broader community.”

    The data backs his ambition: nearly 95 percent of interns are making academic progress, and 100 percent now have bank accounts — enabling future access to credit — compared to just one in four at the start of the program. Additionally, 85 percent are in compliance with court orders, and over 75 percent receive consistent counseling.

    Chad Houser of Cafe Momentum Chad Houser of Cafe Momentum. Courtesy photo

    Real-life success
    Beyond the numbers, the results are most visible in the alumni. Lucciano, better known as “Lucci,” is currently a brand ambassador for Cafe Momentum and exemplifies the mission’s success. Lucci started his internship in 2022 with an incomplete 9th grade education, but a full dream of finishing school. He went on to earn his GED as valedictorian while working at the restaurant.

    “I told Chad I needed the opportunity and promised I’d make the best of it. It’s been foot to the pedal since then,” Lucci says.

    He even got the chance to assist with the new openings in Atlanta and Denver. Lucci admits he was acting as an ambassador long before he had the official title.

    “Being a server, you have to know how to describe the program; it was practice talking to people. I was telling everybody about it, even my Uber driver on the way to work.," he says.

    Stories like Lucci’s serve as motivation for the organization's future. With the success of the model proven through the lives of its alumni, Houser is now looking to continue their growth and community impact.

    “Having this flagship center will allow us to go hyperdrive into what a national practice could look like for us,” Houser says. To refine this national vision, leadership has met with organizations like LeBron James’ I PROMISE Program and Brandon Edwin Chrostowski’s EDWINS Leadership & Restaurant Institute, to learn from their practices.

    In the decade since its first restaurant opening, Cafe Momentum has served over 1,300 interns in Dallas.

    “What I am most proud of is where we are and how we are today,” Houser says. “Our growth is a direct reflection of an organization that was built by listening to the people we serve and responding to that.”

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