Best Lists

Dallas gets some love on magazine’s list of best new restaurants in the South

A best new restaurant list singled out this fried chicken.

Photo courtesy of Rapscallion

Two Dallas spots made the list of best new restaurants in the South, compiled by Southern Living magazine: Rapscallion, the Southern cousin of Boulevardier, and The Theodore, Tim Byres' restaurant at NorthPark Center.

The two Dallas restaurants, both of which made CultureMap's Tastemakers best new list, were among five honored from Texas, including two in Houston — Foreign Correspondents and Helen Green Food and Wine — and one in Austin, Launderette.

The author was Jennifer V. Cole, a writer and editor based in Birmingham, Alabama, who is the magazine's former deputy editor. Their introduction to the list says that she spent over two months eating her way across the South and that the list is "fully vetted."

In her summary of Rapscallion, she calls chef Nathan Tate a "hulking Texas boy" who employs "a robust global pantry and his own ingenuity" to create a menu that defies stereotypes. Dishes she ate include Nashville-style hot chicken; cornmeal-crusted catfish; and skillet-fried sorghum topped with collard kimchi, smoked oyster mushrooms, and a tempura-fried poached egg.

She seems to think Dallas is into dry-aging: "This being Dallas, Tate has developed a vigorous dry-aging program, with primo cuts of beef on display in a glass-front case behind the bar." Yeah, John Tesar does it at Knife, but is that a Dallas thing?

Her write-up on The Theodore admires the restaurant's decorative elements, "from presidential portraits and assorted animal mounts to vintage first aid kits, field guides, and etiquette books," which manage to be "simultaneously kooky and stately." And even though it's in a mall, "it's no food court."

Dishes she ordered include lamb shank pie; the signature beef Wellington, wrapped in flaky puff pastry and stuffed with foie gras and mushroom duxelles; and the "charmingly retro" baked Alaska. She credits the in-house bread program, from the folks behind Easy Tiger Bake Shop in Austin, with making the pizza "respectable."

The Austin bakery comes up again in her blurb on Launderette in Austin, the Edward Hopper-esque diner where the wait for a table can exceed an hour. She says that the blue crab with avocado and caper-mint vinaigrette on semolina bread from Easy Tiger Bake Shop "boldly reminds us why this whole toast trend became a thing." Now we know who to blame for the toast trend.

Chef Rene Ortiz's mussels and crispy oysters, plus birthday cake ice cream sandwiches by pastry chef Laura Sawicki, make Launderette "worthy of the early — and continued — hype."

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Revolving Doors

12 restaurants in Dallas that have either just opened or just closed

Harumama

Harumama Noodles & Buns

In the inevitable ebb and flow of Dallas restaurants, openings and closings are part of the deal — often coming at the end of the year, when restaurateurs, like the rest of us, take stock of the future.

When there is more than one opening and closure, it becomes difficult to keep track. For this reason, there are lists.

Here's a roundup of Dallas restaurant openings and closures, with the bad news first.

CLOSURES

Terra Mediterranean
Mediterranean favorite in Plano closed on December 8, almost four years to the day they opened. When restaurateur brothers Jalal Chanaa and Adam Shanaa opened it at the The Shops at Willow Bend, it was the third location of Terra, following the original in Fort Worth and another in Irving. Both of those locations have since closed, although they're planning to reopen Fort Worth soon. Meanwhile, the brothers are advising Dallas fans to head to Ali Baba, their other restaurant in Richardson, which they say has the same menu.

Yummies
Despite the confusingly quirky name, this Allen restaurant was a fast food halal restaurant featuring halal beef patties prepared fresh in-store every day, plus pita sandwiches, shawarma, and fajitas. They'd been open for seven years including enduring the pandemic, and locals liked their burgers. But they closed at the end of November.

Whistle Britches
Fried chicken & biscuits concept from chef Omar Flores quietly closed its location at 6110 Frankford Rd. in November. Queries about the what and why are going unanswered, but a recording on the location's phone says both that #1 the closure is temporary and also #2 a new concept will go in its place. This was the location featured in Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives, so closing it seems like a shoot-yourself-in-the-foot kind of move, but there are still two remaining locations open, in Plano and Southlake.

Mixtitos Kitchen
Mexican-fusion restaurant in East Dallas finally closed after two years of chef-owner Jose Luis Rodriguez bemoaning a lack of interest in his unusual menu of American, Mexican, and French dishes. He earned oodles of idiotic media attention, but the menu was a tough sell in a space that was previously home to La Acapulqueña, which served cheap Mexican food and margaritas in that space for 33 years. Changing the menu or paying his rent apparently never crossed his mind.

Barley & Board
Denton brewpub is closing after nearly 10 years. According to a post from the owners, the lease was up and they opted not to renew. B&B brought a level of cosmopolitan cool to Denton, combined with an easygoing vibe that made it a fresh addition when it was opened by a hospitality supergroup in 2015. Alas, they got pummeled by the pandemic; one chef said that "things were never the same after COVID." In 2021, they pared down the menu, although they remained a big magnet and brought lots of patrons and revenue into the Square. Their second location which they opened at Grandscape in 2018 closed in November. Denton will close on January 6.

Taco Cabana in Murphy
The Taco Cabana location at 104 FM 544 in Murphy has permanently closed. A Taco Cabana representative said that the location was not doing enough business. People of Murphy, it's on you. Fortunately, the chain has 18 other Dallas-area locations. Support your neighborhood Taco Cabana!

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OPENINGS

Rodeo Cold
Yee-haw dive bar in old east Dallas at 3826 Ross Ave., in the former Eastbound & Down space, is now open. Rodeo Cold is a sibling of Green Light Social, the Austin-born nightlife venue which opened off Good Latimer Freeway in 2021 from owners Robert Dummond and Ian Fletcher, who've partnered with Ian’s brother Eric Fletcher. Their vision is a bar with a late '70s/early '80s vibe plus a little Texas Western color thrown in. They have a basic menu designed by Green Light Social Chef Luis Ayala, with American classics such as steak fingers with gravy, Texas chili, burgers, hot dogs, and Frito pies, plus nothing-too-fancy ready-to-drink cocktails.

MiYa Chinese
New Chinese restaurant is now open in Casa Linda Plaza, in the former Pei Wei space where it's doing an elevated take on Chinese cuisine, blending traditional flavors with a modern, yet cozy atmosphere. MiYa is the brainchild of David Romano, an industry veteran with 30-plus years of food and beverage experience; and brand creator and menu visionary Jia Huang, who grew up in China immersed in her family’s restaurant and has 10-plus years of experience in restaurant operations in America. They're doing classic Chinese take-out items like beef with broccoli and orange chicken, plus hand-pulled noodle dishes such as Sichuan Dan Dan with cucumber, carrot, and sesame Dan Dan sauce ranging in price from $14 to $18.

Be Home Soon
Casa Linda is on fire right now with yet another new opening, this one a place with rock-star cred that just opened in mid-November. The restaurant is from Madison King, a onetime Dallas musician-turned-chef who envisions a warm, comfortable restaurant with a full bar and menu she describes as "home cooking, no matter where you're from." They're open for lunch and dinner with a menu that includes fun appetizers, soups, salads, and sandwiches for lunch, then roll out blue plate specials for dinner.

Kafi BBQ
This one jumps the gun a little because it isn't quite open yet but it's days away. This unusual BBQ restaurant specializing in halal Wagyu beef, will open at 8140 N. MacArthur Blvd. #100 in Valley Ranch on December 14. It's from Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi, a Missouri-born tech engineer and amateur chef who started bringing his BBQ to events at his mosque, where he would sell out very quickly. The menu will include $15 Wagyu brisket sandwiches, brisket on a stick, Iraqi kebab-inspired sausage, and combo plates.

Harumama Noodles + Buns
Small San Diego-based chain with five locations in California is known for "cute" steamed buns decorated to look chicks, pigs, cows, pandas, etc. They've opened a location in Carrollton — their first in Texas — at 1060 W. Frankford Rd. Beyond its twee appeal and Instagram value, the restaurant has a big menu featuring ramen, poke, bao buns, crab wontons, fried rice, potstickers, eggrolls, and salads.

Russo's New York Pizzeria - Frisco
Longtime pizza chain based in Houston which serves New York-style pizza has opened a new location in Frisco at 3420 Main St. #200, in a small new center near Teal Parkway. In addition to full pies, they offer pizza by the slice.

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