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Grocery Store Grumblings

If Safeway unloads Tom Thumb, will HEB snatch up the Dallas-Fort Worth stores?

John Egan
Oct 24, 2013 | 10:55 am

Big changes could be in store for grocery shoppers in the Dallas-Fort Worth, Austin and Houston areas. Some grocery industry analysts are expecting Safeway Inc. to sell its 110 Randalls and Tom Thumb stores in Texas.

The analysts’ prediction comes on the heels of the retailer’s decision to unload its 72 Dominick’s grocery stores in the Chicago area and its 223 Safeway grocery stores in Canada. The prediction also comes amid reports that Safeway, a publicly traded company, may be the target of a takeover bid by private investment firms.

In a note to investors about the possible buyout, Ajay Cain, managing director at financial services firm Cantor Fitzgerald, wrote that as “Safeway’s fundamentals are unraveling for its core operations, we think there is clearly more urgency to sell assets,” including the Texas stores.

The 110 Tom Thumb and Randalls stores may be broken up into pieces. Some analysts speculate HEB could pick up the Dallas-Fort Worth locations.

David Livingston, a grocery industry consultant in Wisconsin, says it makes perfect sense for Safeway to sell its Texas operations.

“Safeway has failed over and over again in Texas — first with its own stores, then with Weingarten’s, and now with Randalls and Tom Thumb,” Livingston says. “It’s insane why they keep trying.”

Most of the Weingarten’s grocery stores in Texas were sold to Safeway and Randalls in the early 1980s. Livingston predicts a sale of Safeway’s Randalls and Tom Thumb stores is “very likely” and will happen “very soon.”

As for the potential purchase of the Texas stores, industry observers say it wouldn’t be just one buyer. Instead, the 110 stores may be broken up into pieces. For instance, some analysts speculate San Antonio-based HEB could pick up the Dallas-Fort Worth locations. Other potential suitors mentioned include Kroger, Walmart, Fiesta, Whole Foods and Winn-Dixie.

“It’s so simple to say Safeway ought to sell [the Texas stores]. What’s harder is to come up with a buyer with money,” Meredith Adler, managing director at investment bank Barclays Capital, told trade publication Supermarket News.

Bob Goldin, executive vice president at food industry consulting and research firm Technomic in Chicago, says an argument could be made for Safeway to hang onto the Texas stores. “I would say that I would think hard about leaving, as Texas is a growth market.”

However, Goldin adds, HEB, Walmart, Whole Foods, Costco, Aldi and several other grocery retailers “appear to be in much better competitive position” in Texas than Safeway.

Goldin points out that Safeway isn’t the No. 1 or No. 2 grocery retailer in any of its Texas markets and isn’t even “a strongly differentiated competitor.” Along those lines, Livingston criticizes Safeway for operating unappealing “cookie cutter” stores in the Lone Star State.

Pleasanton, California-based Safeway bought the Houston-based Randalls chain, including Tom Thumb, for $1.8 billion in 1999. Sales at the Texas stores have plummeted since then, according to Livingston. In fact, he and other analysts think the stores are losing money for Safeway.

Representatives of Safeway couldn’t be reached for comment. The company doesn’t break out sales figures by geographic division.

Analysts said Safeway’s Texas division has been on the sale block for a number of years, but Livingston said he thinks CEO Steve Burd’s ego may have gotten in the way of a deal. Burd was chairman, president and CEO of Safeway from 1992 to 2013.

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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

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This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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