Santé

This November, you can pop (big) bottles in Dallas to toast women winemakers

When it's time to celebrate something, celebrate big. We're talking 3-liter bottles of wine big, and that's what the Bordeaux wine region is sending to Texas in honor of its women winemakers.

These rare double magnums will be poured by the glass at select local restaurants and wine bars beginning the first week of November.

"The people of Bordeaux have always been our most dynamic force and source of innovation," says Bernard Farges, president of the Bordeaux Wine Council. "It is exciting to showcase the collective talent of the many women winemakers who are contributing so much to enrich our region."

Texas is a new addition to this second-annual event, which launched in 2020 in New York City.

"We are honored to work together with our wineries and importers to support our hospitality partners in Texas through these challenging times, and are tremendously grateful for the outpouring of support we have already received," Farges says.

In Dallas, Vins de Bordeaux partnered with D Magazine on October 25 for a kick-off party at CRU Food & Wine Bar in the West Village. The soiree let guests taste 18 3-liter bottles from 12 different all-women producers and winemakers.

Beginning November 1, all Dallasites can taste these wines for themselves at Adelmo's, Bambu Asian Cuisine Richardson, Bearcreek Spirits & Wine, CRU Food and Wine Bar, Dallas Fine Wines, Lavendou Bistro Provencal, Mason & Dixie, Meridian at The Village Dallas, Monarch Restaurant, Off the Vine Grapevine, Put a Cork in it, aint-Emilion Restaurant, Salum, Sushi Rock Dallas, Trova Wine + Market, Veritas Wine Room, WineTastic, and YardBird.

The participating women winemakers and châteaux representatives from Bordeaux represent the rich diversity of their region and are presenting a selection of wines that span renowned reds to dry and sweet whites. The featured wineries this November in Texas include:

Château Biac (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux), Youmna Asseily, owner
Citran (Bordeaux Supérieur), Sophia Sanchez, general manager
Château Haut Mazières (Bordeaux), Gwen Corre, export manager
Château La Freynelle (Bordeaux blanc), Véronique Barthe, owner and winemaker
Château La Rame Bordeaux & Bordeaux blanc), Angelique Armand, winemaker
Château Larrivaux (Haut-Médoc), Bérangère Tesseron, owner and winemaker
Château Rol Valentin (Saint-Émilion Grand Cru), Alexandra Robin, owner and winemaker
Château Simon (Sauternes, Graves), Pauline Dufour, owner and winemaker
Château Thieuley (Bordeaux rouge & Bordeaux blanc), Marie Courselle, owner and winemaker
Clarence Dillon/Clarendelle (Bordeaux rouge & Bordeaux blanc), Erika Smatana, export manager USA
Les Vignerons Reunis De Monsegur (Bordeaux), Valérie Gosselin Conche, commercial director

Make your reservations now at the participating restaurants, and get ready to toast these remarkable women.

Celebrate these wonderful women of wine.

Women winemakers of Bordeaux group photo

Photo courtesy of Vins de Bordeaux

Celebrate these wonderful women of wine.

Magazine lists

Only one Dallas eatery earns spot on Esquire best new restaurant list

Chicken yakitori Mabo

Photo courtesy of Joey Stewart

Yakitori at Mabo Dallas

One Dallas restaurant has made a prominent annual list: It's the 2024 rendition of Esquire magazine's Best New Restaurants in America and the only Dallas entry on the list is Mābo, the Asian restaurant in Preston Center from acclaimed chef Masayuki Otaka.

The newly released list has 35 restaurants, with the majority of the entries in New York and California, including the top restaurant of the year: Four Kings, a Cantonese restaurant in San Francisco.

The list is dominated by Asian cuisine: Of the 35 restaurants, fully one third are Asian.

The authors are "Jeff Gordinier and The Esquire Editors," which includes Omar Mamoon, a San Francisco-based writer (who calls himself not a critic but a "curator" oh dear) who got dispatched to Dallas. In his writeup of Mabo, he waxes on about chicken being his favorite before hailing Mabo as the best place in America to eat chicken yakitori, a Japanese grilling technique.

"… When you consider the Japanese art of yakitori, in which skewered chicken parts grill over binchotan coals until they achieve maximum smokiness and juiciness—well, this is where the bird gets transcendent," he writes. "At Mābo, his eight-seat counter, chef Masayuki Otaka prepares a two-hour meal in which poultry is the star. He sources free-ranging heritage breeds from Pennsylvania, and he lets you order additional skewers—maybe you’re in the mood for more tail, or for the fatty triangular nub known as the pope’s nose—when the planned courses have reached their completion."

Otaka is the former chef/owner of Teppo on Greenville Avenue (which closed in 2022 and is now home to sushi restaurant Kaiyo) who opened Mabo in spring 2024. It's an omakase-style spot with a 14-course tasting experience, with two tastings per night at 5:30 and 8:30 pm, only eight guests per seating, for $200. Otaka has a devoted following, and his version of omakase is less about raw fish and more about the yakitori-style of cooking for which he was famous at Teppo, featuring grilled meats, mushrooms, and other bits on a skewer.

Despite its coastal focus, the list does not completely ignore Texas: Houston restaurant Late August also earns a spot on the list along with nods to Tavel Bristol-Joseph and Karla Espinosa, owners of Nicosi in San Antonio who are pronounced Pastry Chefs of the Year.
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Eric Sandler contributed to this story.

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