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The Farmer Diaries

North Texas farmer grapples with aftermath of November freeze

Marshall Hinsley
Nov 17, 2013 | 6:00 am

As forecast, North Texas experienced its first hard freeze on November 12. And despite my good intentions, it put an end to my summer crops.

I had my own forecast: Even if I'd applied covering, I feared that nothing short of heaters would have kept my warm-season plants alive. The cost to protect so many plants for just a few more weeks of produce didn't seem worth it. At the last minute, I chose not to protect my garden.

The tomatoes, squash, pumpkins, okra, cucumbers, cotton, beans, peppers and basil — which only the day before were still flowering, fruity and green — are now black, wilted and dead.

Time for the cleanup. I don't waste a minute. I move dead plants to the compost bin right away so that their tissue can begin to break down immediately. They're full of organic matter and minerals. Getting them in the bin ensures that by spring, I'll have a pile of dark brown compost that beats anything sold in stores.

I try to recover egg cases and sacks left behind by praying mantises and spiders. They've done such an effective job in helping combat pests that I want to make sure their young ones come back next year.

Saving my friends
First, before I start the tear-down, I try to recover egg cases and sacks left behind by praying mantises and spiders. They've done such an effective job in helping combat pests that I want to make sure their young ones come back next year.

Over the years, I've formed a sort of memory map of where I've seen beneficial insects and spiders. They seem to pick a good spot in the garden and stick to it, just like people do in neighborhoods. In one spot is the garden spider who lived on the trellis behind the Nichol's Estate tomatoes; in another, the praying mantis who always scouted for bugs on the zinnias, and so on.

Spider egg sacks are the easiest to find. These balls of tightly spun web — as small as a pea or large as a golf ball depending on the species — are usually hung near the web, almost always under protective plant growth or the eave of a house.

Praying mantis egg cases are more elusive and difficult to describe. The praying mantis in my bed of zinnias chose the underside of a large, purple flower to place her eggs in what looks like a growth with scales, about an inch long and as big around as a pencil.

Once I locate their eggs, I put them in a paper bag that I leave unsealed, in case the eggs hatch before I expect them to. If they do hatch early, the little ones can still go where they need to. For this reason, I keep them outdoors — I prefer not to have a living room full of huge black and yellow spiders.

Once I plant new crops next year, I place the egg casings and sacks among them. They'll hatch when the time is right.

Tidying up
After sparing the next beneficial insect generation, I pull up or tear down the dead plants. If the roots are set firmly in the ground, as with tomatoes, I'll sever the trunk from the roots with pruning sheers, right at ground level. This allows me to remove the bushy growth more easily, and the roots will quickly rot in the soil.

As I place plant matter in my compost bin, I create layers of plant tissue and ripe compost from a mature pile. To do this, I alternate a foot-high layer of plant matter with about four inches of brown compost.

I move dead plants to the compost bin right away so that their tissue can begin to break down immediately. They're full of organic matter and minerals.

Layering new and old plant matter this way hastens the breakdown of the new material so that it's ready to use in the garden in about three months. Without such layering, plants can take a year or more to break down into compost.

To feed birds through the winter, sunflowers, sorghum and any other seed crop can stay where they are. Seed-eating birds such as mourning doves eat huge quantities of seeds. Attracting them to the garden is a sure way to get weed seeds out from the raised beds before they can germinate. What's more, doves do not scratch the ground for seeds, so crop seeds that I plant are safely out of reach.

In some of my raised beds, and especially in the open field where traditional row crops will be planted, I'll plant a temporary cover crop of hairy vetch. Hairy vetch grows well in colder temperatures and competes with winter weed, thus reducing their numbers.

As a legume, it harbors a bacteria that takes nitrogen from the atmosphere and fixes it to the root zone where it will be available to nourish next spring's crops — hence the term "nitrogen-fixing crop" that's often used to describe some cover crops.

Although much of my garden has been killed, gardening is not over for the year. Still alive and healthier than ever are kale, collard greens, carrots, rutabagas, turnips, Swiss chard and cilantro. Half of my raised beds are full of these cool-season plants — robust, lush and green.

Because of them, I'll continue to have an alternative to the grocery store produce aisle, yards away from where I live.

Having the summer plants out of the way is kind of a relief. They no longer require my daily care, giving me time to repair raised beds, install a more durable irrigation system and finally get around to experimenting with hydroponics, something that promises a year-round harvest no matter what the weather brings our way.

Marigolds still hanging on after a freeze in a Texas garden.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
Marigolds still hanging on after a freeze in a Texas garden.
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Food trends

Dallas-Fort Worth pitmasters lead Texas’ growing halal BBQ boom

Associated Press
Aug 21, 2026 | 1:10 pm
Levant BBQ
Levant BBQ
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FORT WORTH, Texas (RNS) — At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant.

First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

“I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

"Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

Growing Texas trend
At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue is an acclaimed BBQ joint in Fort Worth. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco and whose all-beef menu includes a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

“Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

More than salt and pepper
Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

“My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

“That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

“I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

'We love barbecue'
Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

“It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

“No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

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This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

halal halal barbecue muslim communities pitmasters religion texas texas barbecue trends culinary traditions goldee's barbecue
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