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The Farmer Diaries

Texas' Willhite Seed Company overcomes setbacks in win for small farmers

Marshall Hinsley
Dec 29, 2013 | 6:00 am

A small Texas seed company nearly felled by a devastating disease is springing back with a creative solution aimed to help the small farmer.

Willhite Seed Company announced last fall that, after nearly a century in business, it would shut down due to bacterial fruit blotch (BFB), a disease that has taken an economic toll on fruit producers for several decades.

BFB is a disease that forms dark, dead spots in affected fruit, predominately watermelons, rendering the fruit inedible. It's spread by contaminated seed from melon crops and wild cucurbits, making containment difficult. Hot, wet conditions in a field or greenhouse increase the likelihood of BFB spreading.

Wilhite's contribution to the sustainable agriculture movement is invaluable, especially as a source of local and affordable bulk seed.

All producers of pumpkin and melon seed are at risk. The disease has been detected in 11 states, and no methods to stop the spread of the disease have been discovered.

Willhite owner Robyn Coffey announced the impending closure in a letter sent to customers last fall. "Many of you are familiar with bacterial fruit blotch, and the burden it has placed on the watermelon industry," she wrote. "Even with signed legal release forms required with the purchase of watermelon seed, Willhite has been left unprotected from costly liabilities incurred."

The loss of Willhite would have dealt a major blow to small-scale growers. Willhite is an ideal resource to the specialty farmer working on 10 acres of cantaloupes, or a multi-crop farmer producing a whole gamut of fruits and vegetables — beans, beets, carrots, eggplants, rutabagas and tomatoes — you'd expect to find at a farmers market.

But Coffey has since devised a solution: Willhite will continue to sell seed to home gardeners and small specialty growers but not to larger commercial watermelon growers more likely to initiate litigation. And in a cost-cutting move, the company will also cease production of its annual catalog.

"All orders will be taken online or by phone," said office manager Carol Clark. "We'll still send out our calendar, but last year's catalog, which was our 90th year to print one, was our last."

Willhite's contribution to the sustainable agriculture movement is invaluable. One of its greatest strengths lies in its role as a source of local and affordable bulk seed.

For example, Willhite sells a 50-pound bag of common corn seed for $150. Other seed companies may offer the same seed but at $2 to $4 for a small packet. That's fine for the home gardener, but buying the equivalent 50 pounds of corn in seed packs would cost more than $5,000.

Willhite is not just a seed seller, taking bulk seed and packaging it for retail. It's also a seed producer, responsible for developing 40 varieties of melons that have met demand throughout the world.

The company began with the sale of 77 pounds of watermelon seed as a home-based business in 1916, and it has stayed in business because it's needed. Its longtime endurance, through the Great Depression and since, has given it a familiarity with small-scale agriculture that can't be replicated.

Willhite's overseer, Don Dobbs, has worked for Willhite for 50 years. His knowledge of farming is vast. He remembers when every family had a garden that provided the majority of what they ate throughout the year.

When he was young, households gathered together on an appointed day to can their harvest for the winter. He remembers what sustainable, local agriculture was before it became an alternative to other forms of agriculture.

The survival of Willhite Seed Company is a reassurance of sorts that the effort of local growers to develop a sustainable system of regionally produced food is neither unattainable nor unprecedented. It may have fallen off the radar because not enough people were aware of what was happening to our food chain. But Willhite was there before that, it's still here now, and I'm glad we're not about to lose that.

Wilhite Seed Company fills the needs of both home gardeners and small-scale farmers.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
Wilhite Seed Company fills the needs of both home gardeners and small-scale farmers.
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news/restaurants-bars

Losing some spice

Beloved neighborhood taqueria to close after 37 years in Dallas' Oak Cliff

Christina Hughes Babb
Oct 12, 2026 | 5:23 pm
​Cafeteria y Loncheria El Padrino
Facebook/El Padrink
Cafeteria y Loncheria El Padrino will close its doors at the end of 2026, following 37 years serving the neighborhood.

An Oak Cliff taqueria will close its doors at the end of 2026, ending nearly 37 years serving the neighborhood. Cafeteria y Loncheria El Padrino, the brightly painted-brick gem at 408 W. Jefferson Blvd., will lose its lease at the end of December, according to Juan Contreras, son of the restaurant's owner.

Contreras confirmed to CultureMap that property managers will not renew his father's lease and have given the restaurant less than three months to vacate.

“Honestly it’s not a surprise,” Contreras says in an Instagram post. “With Bishop Arts and all the development interest around it, something was bound to happen eventually.”

The little restaurant sits at the end of a row of thrift and quinceañera dress shops, a few blocks from Bishop Avenue and the evolving Bishop Arts District.

Contreras, who shares his father's name, says the little Oak Cliff El Padrino was his dad’s first restaurant. “His dream," Contreras notes. "He’s been feeding this neighborhood since 1989.”

The family later opened a second location in Pleasant Grove.

Both restaurants are beloved for their welcoming atmosphere and unfussy, authentic Mexican fare.

"As a small business in Oak Cliff, we know what it means to be part of a community. Our neighbors are not just customers .. they are family," notes a Facebook post from the taqueria.

While handmade tortillas and tacos are staples, customers also come for antojitos — or "little cravings" — such as guacamole, menudo, pan dulce, queso, French fries, and chips. Heartier options include machacado (shredded meat) and eggs with bacon strips and cheese in the beans.

Regulars know, love, and fear the camarones a la diabla — shrimp that made a deal with the devil — with shellfish "swimming in salsa roja so picante, it’ll make your abuela say '¡Ay, Dios mío!'," says El Padrio's Facebook page. They recommend ordering a cold agua fresca de piña bien before taking a bite: "That sweet pineapple coolness is your lifesaver."

The younger Contreras, who is involved in local advocacy and community organizing, says the history of Oak Cliff — particularly the area around his father’s restaurant — illustrates the less welcome side of neighborhood revitalization.

“This has been building for years. Elected officials and interest groups sell you a beautiful picture of what a neighborhood can become," he says in his social media post. "What they leave out is that the people who stayed and kept these neighborhoods alive when nobody else wanted them are usually the ones priced out or pushed aside for ‘better’ tenants.”

The elder Contreras came to the U.S. "with nothing but his hands and the hope that his kids would have it easier than he did," says the son, "the way so many of our fathers did."

Unless something changes before the end of the year, the Oak Cliff location will continue operating throughout 2026, Contreras says. The Pleasant Grove location will remain open and unaffected, he adds.

“If you’re one of the Oak Cliff regulars or you’ve been meaning to stop by, now’s the time,” he says. “Come eat, order out, and tell your friends. Every visit means a lot to my dad right now.”

Hope is not entirely lost for the owner and local fans of his restaurant, Contreras says. The Contreras family has weathered its share of challenges and does not intend to give up on Oak Cliff easily. They just need to find an appropriate and affordable space from which to operate.

“This isn’t our first rodeo. If you know of a move-in-ready space in Oak Cliff where my dad can plug in and cook, send me a message," he says.

dallas gentrification jefferson avenue oak cliff restaurant closings shrimp tacos taqueria cafeteria y loncheria el padrino closings
news/restaurants-bars

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