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    The Farmer Diaries

    Texas farmer shucks the mysteries of growing corn

    Marshall Hinsley
    Jul 6, 2014 | 6:00 am

    When people envision a farmer tending crops in a field, it is almost always corn: tall, hardy stalks with long, narrow leaves and tassels on top. Corn is emblematic of farming. Cornstalks covering the countryside form a picturesque backdrop for a tractor, farm house and anything else that completes our notions of idyllic rural life.

    But for me, corn has been a source of frustration and discouragement in my attempt to opt out of industrial agriculture and take corn off my grocery store list. Things start out well. The seed is big enough to handle easily and plant in well-spaced rows in spring. The seedlings germinate quickly and grow into plants waist high. But when the spring rains cease and summer begins, my corn fizzles into rows of scraggly stalks tattered by grasshoppers.

    Corn is considered an easy crop to grow, so my failure has always been a little embarrassing. Nevertheless, each year I give corn another try.

    This year, I did two things differently. First, I added a fertilizer high in nitrogen to the soil. Second, I lined each row of corn with drip irrigation.

    Once again this year, I ordered standard, open-pollinated improved golden bantam from Willhite Seed and planted it in mid-April, after the last freeze. As always, I planted in several rows, about 50 feet long.

    Corn is "wind-pollinated": The ears where the corn produces corn on the cob grow out from the middle of the stalk. Silk strands flow out from the tips of each ear and must be pollinated from pollen that falls from the tassels that grow out of the top of each stalk. It must be grown densely in a large area.

    But this year, I did two things differently. First, I added a fertilizer high in nitrogen to the soil along with my usual amendments of soft rock phosphate, Sul-Po-Mag and compost. The fertilizer was called IQ Amino-N, which I picked up as a sample from a sustainable farming company called Agronomic Partners with an office not far from where I farm in Waxahachie.

    Unlike my typical soil amendments with a nitrogen value of maybe 4 or 6, the IQ Amino-N had an impressively high value of 14, more suitable for the requirements of corn. Derived from vegetable proteins, the product was consistent with my aim of keeping my farming sustainable and free from chemical fertilizer salts.

    Second, I lined each row with drip irrigation, so that I could keep the soil moist no matter how the weather turned out. Frequent showers have given crops a boost this year, but the corn still required supplementation from irrigation.

    With these two changes, my cornstalks did not take their usual downward path toward death once June arrived. They kept growing, noticeably taller each day, with a robust resistance to pests. It confirmed for me that pest problems are not so much the cause of poor plant health as much as they are a result of poor plant health.

    Once ears formed midway up the stalks and sent out plumes of silk, I knew I had gotten further toward success than ever before. The final proof came at the end of June when I saw that the silk had dried up at the tip of each ear, a sign that the corn was ready to pick.

    I grabbed an ear and bent it downward, cracked it off its stalk and tore into the husk. Pulling each layer of husk back, I found even rows of beautifully golden kernels of corn. I popped a kernel with my fingernail to see if it was ready to harvest. The juice inside was a milky liquid, indicating its readiness. A creamy consistency would show it was too late; a clear liquid would show it was too early.

    I picked half of the mature ears one day and the rest on the next. I was not surprised when I husked the corn to find worms in about two out of five ears; worms go along with growing corn. Luckily, they'd only eaten the tips.

    All I needed to do to salvage the harvest was cut off the damaged end. The affected parts were only an inch long, shortening an 8-inch ear to 7. The kernels at the tip are often immature, so the loss was minimal. The worms' presence was far from what could be described as an infestation.

    Corn sugars begin to turn to starch as soon as they're harvested, and therefore corn loses its sweetness if not cooked or prepared for storage immediately. The first day I picked corn, I ate it as corn on the cob that night.

    The flavor was more intense than what I buy from the store; the texture of the kernels was plump yet crunchy. I'm not the first to say it, but nothing bought at the market ever tastes as delicious as food that's fresh from the garden.

    Altogether, I'm satisfied with my new success with corn. It offers more motivation to never give up on a challenging task, even when I've failed at it — repeatedly — before.

    Tassels top healthy corn stalks on a Texas farm.

    Photo courtesy of Kitchen LTO
    Tassels top healthy corn stalks on a Texas farm.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Sushi News

    Frisco sushi restaurant Hinoki does a slimmed-down twist on omakase

    Thanin Viriyaki
    Teresa Gubbins
    Nov 14, 2025 | 3:59 pm
    Hinoki
    Thanin Viriyaki
    Hinoki

    A new sushi restaurant has debuted in Frisco with a mini version of omakase: Called Hinoki, it's open for lunch and dinner at 8050 Preston Rd. #106, in a space previously occupied by another short-lived Asian restaurant called Imura, and is serving seafood both raw and cooked.

    Hinoki is from chef Leo Kekoa, who previously worked for the acclaimed Nobu chain and who also owns the popular Kinzo Sushi in north Frisco, which he opened in 2022 to bring omakase to Frisco.

    Omakase is the dining experience in which the chef prepares a multi-course tasting menu of small bites made to order, often at a premium price. While omakase has no set number of dishes, it usually ranges from 10 to 20 courses depending on how excessive the chef/restaurant is.

    Hinoki offers a six-course menu they describe as omakase for $75. It's a starter version that rotates but usually includes a sushi course, oyster topped with caviar, soup, galbi, and mochi dessert. The restaurant also has a regular a la carte menu featuring sushi, hot items, and composed bentos boxes for lunch.

    Hinoki sushi HinokiThanin Viriyaki

    "Kinzo is my fine-dining omakase restaurant," Kekoa says. "Hinoki is designed as its more casual counterpart — still rooted in discipline and detail, but more accessible."

    Kekoa created the menu but he says it’s a team effort, with two veteran chefs: Chikau "Harry" Kikuchi, who brings 25-plus years of experience to the sushi counter (he and Kekoa worked together at Nobu); and chef Sachiko Hashimoto presiding over the hot line and overseeing the preparation of Hinoki's home-style and regional Japanese dishes.

    No sushi restaurant can ignore basics like the spicy tuna roll, California roll, dragon roll, and shrimp tempura roll, but Hinoki also has a few of distinctive rolls such as the Kumo roll with crab, avocado, and chipotle aioli, wrapped in soy paper, which has a pleasing texture that's a little more toothsome than the standard crisp seaweed wrapper.

    There are creative bowls as the Sake Dashi, featuring sushi-grade raw salmon, Asian pear, crushed marcona almonds, yuzu shirodashi, and truffle oil; and hot dishes such as miso black cod, teriyaki salmon, and Kushiyaki skewers with chicken thigh, kurobuta sausage, and shishito pepper. Most items average about $20.

    Kekoa calls his lunch offering "honest and efficient."

    "We’re bringing back the Japanese bento [referring to the cute boxed lunch with compartments for courses], such as our chirashi bento with fish, sushi rolls, and seaweed salad," he says.

    Hinoki also has a full bar with sake, wine, beer, and cocktails.

    Kekoa lives in Frisco and is bullish on his hometown.

    "With Universal Studios on the way and PGA nearby, I believe this city deserves a neighborhood sushi spot done right," he says. "I want Hinoki to bring fine-dining service at a price more people can enjoy."

    openings
    news/restaurants-bars

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