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The Farmer Diaries

Texas farmer harvests the power of coconuts to remedy poor soil

Marshall Hinsley
Oct 26, 2014 | 6:00 am

One of the best ways to grow crops is in a raised bed garden, because you can create your own nearly perfect growing environment. You can add amendments to the native soil that correct its deficiencies and improve its texture, giving plants a fertile, aerated soil where they can easily germinate and thrive.

I have more than 30 beds, but at least a dozen are in less-than-ideal condition. In some, the soil is so hard that watering dries quickly. This makes sprouting difficult, especially small seeds such as carrots; they require even moisture in the soil day after day. Seeds also need a soil surface that's easily penetrated by roots of surface-sown seed or broken through by seed planted a quarter- to a half-inch deep.

As a soil amendment, coconut coir is a rich, soft organic matter that holds moisture for days.

The best solution for breaking up heavy clay soil is to work composted organic matter into it. If I were planning for next year, I could increase the soil's microbial content by adding molasses, worm castings and tea made from the castings; plant a cover crop; and work it into the soil after it grows for a little while. But I want to plant carrots today so I can eat them by Christmas.

For a quick remedy to this subpar dirt situation, I have several options.

I could add compost. But I would need two or three wheelbarrows' worth, and my compost bin is currently only partially decomposed. I could buy compost, but I'm reluctant to spend the money on something I can do myself for free.

Peat moss is not expensive and is commonly offered as a solution. But for a number of reasons, I prefer to use coconut coir, a cheap, effective and eco-friendly material that beats just about anything else.

Coconut coir is good
Coconut coir is the outer fiber of coconut husks, a byproduct of coconut harvesting. It's a brown, fibrous material also used in floor mats, mattresses and brushes. It is organic, but it holds up well against decomposition, and it will last several growing seasons.

As a soil amendment, it is a rich, soft organic matter that holds moisture for days. The particles are fine; tiny seeds that are planted in it will make plenty of contact with the medium, which is vital for the first few days a sprout takes root and must not dry out.

Coconut coir also makes an excellent potting soil for containers with mixed with equal parts of vermiculite and perlite.

It comes in 10-pound bricks of dried and compressed coconut coir, about the size of two shoe boxes, side by side. Each brick is $10. I split one brick between two beds.

To use it, I place it in a wheelbarrow and add 10 gallons of water. It expands more than four times until it fills the wheelbarrow. I remove all the weeds and dead plants from the bed. Then I till the soil with a spade fork, about eight inches deep so that the soil is broken up a little.

Once the soil is broken up, I spread a layer of the coconut coir over the surface of the bed, about an inch deep. Using a smaller hand fork, I work a little of the coir into the crust of the soil and no deeper. Already moist and friable, the coir layer creates a perfect bed for the tiny seeds I plant, and it keeps them moist between the daily waterings they'll need to instigate germination.

After the seedlings mature, about a week or two after they sprout, I back off from watering daily. The coconut coir layer has the properties to carry them through until they unfurl their true leaves, not just the sprout leaves.

If I need to break up the soil a little deeper, I use a whole brick in each bed and mix it into the soil down about six inches. Coconut coir also makes an excellent potting soil for containers with mixed with equal parts of vermiculite and perlite, two gardening media available at any nursery.

Coconut coir is more difficult to find. In spring, home improvement stores sometimes carry bags of loose coir, not the compressed bricks. Privately owned nurseries — such as Garden Variety Organics and Redenta's in Dallas or Marshall Grain Company in Fort Worth — are better bets for finding it. Of course, online there are many places to buy it, including Clean Air Gardening, Growers Supply and Natures Footprint.

Peat moss is bad
Peat moss is easier to find, but as a soil amendment, it performs poorly. Its spongy appearance looks like it would add moisture to soil, but I've found that it creates a sort of barrier between itself and native soil, pushing water away once it dries out. Once it's dry, it's almost impossible to wet again unless fully submerged; sprinkling with a water hose is useless.

There are other reasons to avoid it. Peat moss, simply the remains of sphagnum moss that grows on the surface of a bog, might seem like a renewable resource. But mining peat moss from peat bogs in Canada destroys the ecosystems where it accumulates. It takes 1,500 years for a 3-foot layer of peat moss to form, so once it's harvested and the bogs are obliterated, there's no chance it will reform in our lifetime — or anytime before the year 3514.

More important, peat bogs bury huge amounts of carbon from the atmosphere underwater and trap it there for thousands of years. We're not only destroying a beneficial factor in the fight against global warming, but we're also releasing carbon into the atmosphere that was trapped way back when Jesus gave the sermon on the mount.

The use of coir is growing, especially among commercial growers and in commercial hydroponics operations. But home gardeners are catching on too.

Coconut coir bricks expand to more than four times their size once water is added to them.

Photo by Marshall Hinsley
Coconut coir bricks expand to more than four times their size once water is added to them.
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news/restaurants-bars

Red letter opening

Dallas bar veterans open Italian speakeasy-restaurant in Denton

Luciana Gomez
Sep 1, 2026 | 12:45 pm
Red: Italian
Photo courtesy of Red: Italian
Exposed stone walls and a backlit glowing bar anchor the subterranean space at Red: Italian.

A new speakeasy lounge serving high-end Italian food has arrived at a cool historic building in Denton. Called Red: Italian, the subterranean restaurant opened in the basement of Ruby Rodeo, a bar and live music venue located at 122 N. Locust St. on Denton Square.

The concept comes from Victor García and Mike Church. García spent years at Truth & Alibi — the popular speakeasy lounge disguised behind the faux storefront of the Deep Ellum Candy Company — before acquiring the same space for Scarlett Lounge and Kitchen in Deep Ellum in 2024. Church, a commercial pilot, trained at The Culinary School in Fort Worth and the Ritz-Carlton to refine his passion for cooking.

The business partners say they fell in love with the historic nature of the 1877 building in Denton, which housed Andy’s Bar for 30 years.

“We have always loved the building — it is the oldest building on the square. We saw the vision and loved the aesthetics for both our Ruby Rodeo and Red: Italian concepts,” Church says.

After opening Ruby Rodeo, the duo launched Red: Italian this month. Church notes that the "red" naming convention across their concepts — Scarlett, Ruby, and now Red — nods to his favorite color, a symbol of passion, and the red wines and tomato sauces central to Italian dining.

Church’s passion for Italian cuisine defined the menu, which he created alongside executive chef Denise Gabrielle, his former culinary school instructor. Gabrielle brings decades of hospitality experience from the Westin Hotels, The Wigwam Resort in Litchfield Park, Arizona, and most recently, The Taste Project in Fort Worth and Arlington.

The 58-seat underground space — which includes 10 seats at the bar — serves elevated Italian classics. Entrees range from $25 to $40, with menu highlights including:

  • Spicy sausage lasagna with arrabbiata sauce
  • Cacio e pepe bucatini
  • Chicken piccata
  • Braised lamb leg
  • Mediterranean Sea bass
  • Shrimp diablo
  • Espresso-crusted filet mignon with Italian seasoning

Appetizers are priced under $15 and include house-made fried mozzarella, stuffed mushrooms, grilled artichokes, bruschetta, meatballs, and flatbreads. The kitchen also serves salads, featuring a classic Caesar and a house chopped salad with nine toppings.

Red: Italian Shrimp diablo served over pasta with toasted slices of bread at Red: Italian.Photo courtesy of Red: Italian

Desserts feature house-made panna cotta, ricotta-amaretto Italian cheesecake topped with drunken cherry sauce, and a table-side bananas Foster served with house-made amaretto gelato.

The bar program leans into Italian flavors with options like an Italian margarita made with house limoncello, tequila, amaretto, and simple syrup, alongside a peach Bellini and a smoky Godfather. The wine list spotlights Italian bottles and a selection of Napa Valley options.

“The place has the perfect intimate, upscale, fun Italian wine and food ambience,” Church says.

While entering Red doesn't require a password, it still has an off-the-beaten-path entry that is characteristic of speakeasies. Social media posts direct patrons to "look for the red awning" adjacent to Ruby Rodeo’s black awning. A set of red stairs leads guests downstairs to a door with a small sign reading "Red:".

To preserve the speakeasy atmosphere, cell phone use is discouraged. The space also features subtle Easter eggs for guests to discover, such as conversation starters tucked beneath the napkins.

Following a sold-out opening weekend, Red: Italian is now open, with an official ribbon cutting planned for September (exact date to be announced).

Hours are Tuesday through Sunday from 5-10 pm, with last seating at 9 pm to wrap up dinner service before Ruby Rodeo’s live music starts upstairs at 10:30 pm.

speakeasy italian restaurant denton
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