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Oak Lawn News

Beloved Dallas Vietnamese restaurant Green Papaya opens under new guise

Teresa Gubbins
Mar 12, 2024 | 4:43 pm
Papaya Kitchen

Papaya Kitchen

Courtesy photo

A long-revered Vietnamese restaurant in Dallas' Oak Lawn neighborhood has resurfaced under a new guise: Called Papaya Kitchen, it's a revival of the former Green Papaya, now open at a new address at 5200 Lemmon Ave. - as a take-out restaurant only.

The restaurant, which opened softly on March 11, is from Alan Mai, who founded the original Green Papaya in 1999, and who is reprising its most popular dishes.

Mai says he was drawn out of retirement by longtime fans and by what he saw as a gap in the market.

"It became apparent there was a void in the Oak Lawn/Highland Park area, as well as a yearning for the quality and taste that defined Green Papaya," Mai says. “Papaya Kitchen seeks to fill that void, with a focus on Vietnamese cuisine."

Papaya Kitchen takes over a space on Lemmon Avenue that was once a Subway and most recently an Asian restaurant called Yumi To Go. The space has a few seats if you want to nosh on-site but it's mostly to-go, due both to the small footprint of the storefront, as well as the challenges of finding service staff in these post-pandemic times.

"Papaya Kitchen has been conceived with the sole purpose of bringing back the flavors and experiences that many have missed, but as a to-go only concept," Mai says. "It's also an abbreviated menu highlighting the best items from the Green Papaya era."

That menu includes the signature green papaya salad; starters such as fried egg rolls; spring rolls in shrimp, chicken, or pork varieties; and entrees such as:

  • Charcoal-grilled lemongrass pork, chicken, or beef, with choice of vermicelli or thin rice noodles
  • Pho - Vietnamese traditional thick rice noodle soup with bean sprouts, cilantro, green, and white onions and of shrimp, chicken, beef slices, or meat balls
  • Banh Xeo - bean crepes filled with shrimp, chicken, and bean sprouts
  • Banh Beo Bi Tom - steamed rice cakes topped with velvety mung bean, prawn floss, and fried pork fat
  • Ga Luc Lac - pan-seared diced chicken with garlic sauce
  • Com Chien Dac Biet - Papaya special with fried rice, egg, green peas, carrots and choice of shrimp, chicken, beef or grilled pork

Entree prices range from $16 to $18.

Mai first opened Green Papaya in 1999 at 3211 Oak Lawn Ave. in a former coffee shop named Java Jones, in a collaboration with Khoa Nguyen, who owned the also-beloved (and also now closed) East Wind Vietnamese restaurant in Deep Ellum. With few Asian options in the Oak Lawn area, Green Papaya drew a following for its fresh food, plentiful portions, and lively bar.

In 2019, Mai felt ready to retire from the industry and sold the restaurant. New owner Dylan Le subsequently converted it to Green Papaya Plant-Based, specializing in vegan and healthy dishes. The restaurant was well received but never hit its stride. (The old space is now home to a newly-opened Asian restaurant called Indochine Bistro, featuring dishes from Vietnamese-American celebrity chef Michael Bao Huynh.)

Mai says he has a "renewed passion" to get back into the business. "I'm back, let's recreate memories again," he says.

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Tex-Mex News

Top-notch team helms Sophia's Mexican restaurant in Farmers Branch

Teresa Gubbins
Sep 23, 2026 | 4:28 pm
.
dallas.culturemap.com
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Dallas food and beverage professional Hugo Miranda is back — front and center at Sophia's Cocina & Cantina, a Mexican restaurant at 1980 LBJ Fwy. on the Mercer Boardwalk in Farmers Branch.

Miranda is the well-respected hospitality figure who previously helmed Hugo's Invitados, a Mexican concept that he opened in 2018 with entrepreneur Mark Hulme.

Hugo's drew a loyal following for its ambitious chef-driven Mexican food with dishes such as Wagyu carne asada and Mexican cioppino. At its mid-pandemic peak, there were Hugo's locations in Las Colinas, Dallas' West Village, and Highland Village.

But the concept was a COVID casualty in more ways than one, including putting Miranda in a coma.

"In 2021, I went to the hospital because of COVID — I was there for six months, including being in a coma for three months," Miranda says. "Hugo's was doing so well, (but) it destroyed our momentum."

Between Miranda being MIA, coupled with the effects of the pandemic, Hugo's met its inevitable ending in 2025.

After Miranda got back on his feet, he did stints with Chilango's and Meso Maya, where he'd worked previously. But he finally made the right fit after connecting with restaurateur Miguel Cavazos, who'd opened Sophia's in early 2026. They formed a partnership, providing a platform for Miranda to rev up a top-notch machine.

That included reuniting with chef Natalio Charles, former chef de cuisine at Meso Maya, former executive chef at José, former culinary director for Hugo's, and 2020 nominee for Best Chef in CultureMap's annual Tastemaker Awards. Charles came on board as executive chef.

Chef Natalio Charles Chef Natalio Charles.Photo courtesy of Sophia's

With the band back together, Sophia's is now deploying the same level of impeccable Mexican food that earned Hugo's Invitados so many fans.

Highlights from the menu (which has not yet been uploaded to the restaurant's website nor their Facebook page) include:

  • Oysters "Oaxacanfeller": charred oysters, creamed spinach, anejo mezcal, crispy pork belly, corn, and manchego cheese
  • Pork Belly Chicharron: seared pork belly, smashed Purepecha avocado, chile de arbol salsa
  • Sopa de Cebolla: caramelized onions and poblano pepper in beef broth with toasted bread and chihuahua cheese
  • Parraillada Mixta Mixed Grill: with lamb, ancho hanger steak, pork loin, garlic mashed potatoes, and arugula
  • Ribeye Black Angus Tomahawk: sliced tableside with wild mushroom demiglace and saffron new potatoes
  • Huachinango: seared boneless whole Pacific snapper with roasted poblanos and mushroom risotto

There are also crudos; upscale tacos such as blue crab with spinach; and salads such as red beet carpaccio with arugula, goat cheese, avocado, and pumpkin seeds.

Pacific red snapper ceviche Pacific red snapper ceviche.Photo courtesy of Sophia's

"There is some traditional Tex-Mex although it's not fully authentic," Miranda says. "But we execute the quality well, and from my experience, I know these are dishes that people love."

At dinner, entrees range in price from $20 to $40, tacos are $15 to $20, and at lunch, most dishes are $20 or less.

There's a full bar featuring cocktails made with fresh juices priced at $15 or less; four varieties of margaritas including the Oaxaca with Desolas mezcal and blanco tequila; and a big selection of tequilas. At lunch, they're doing a drink special: 99 cent margaritas when you order an entree, a limit of three per customer, such a deal.

Once Miranda got on board, there was discussion about possibly changing the name of the restaurant to acknowledge his arrival, except for one tiny mitigating factor: "Sophia is my daughter's name, so we had to keep it," Mirada says.

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