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Big River

This breathtaking West Texas road trip wins over out-of-town skeptics

Stacy Breen
Aug 8, 2017 | 9:01 am
Bullock Texas State History Museum presents H-E-B Free First Sunday: Journey Into Big Bend
Closed Canyon is open for hiking.
Photo by Sarah Wilson

Editor's note: Dallas resident Stacy Breen is an intrepid explorer of local culture with an instinct for making nifty discoveries. She's contributing a weekly column on her cool finds.

I wanted to go on a road trip. I had a 3- to 4-day window right before Thanksgiving where my family was going to be out of town, and a friend from Brooklyn was coming to visit. Marfa was the official destination, but this was about taking a road trip, and about showing my friend the beauty of Texas.

Like a lot of people outside Texas, he had this impression that Texas is all a red state. But I promised him that Texas is more than what you read about and convinced him to come down.

Marfa
Marfa has been dubbed a Brooklyn favorite. It has the art and shops and food. But with its remoteness and captive audience, your options are limited. It's almost like going camping. The restaurant situation is unreliable; some places close on a whim. It can be a two-hour wait to get a pizza, even if you want it to-go. A lot of people end up eating at the Dairy Queen.

We went to see the famous Prada Marfa exhibit, almost 30 miles outside of Marfa. This was a little doomed. We went in the afternoon, but it turns out that it's better to visit in the morning, because of the way the sun hits it.

And then as soon as we exited the parking lot, I realized I had a flat tire. In the middle of nowhere.

I called Subaru roadside and they sent a truck out to get us. It took more than two hours; by then, it was dark. We tried to make the best of it. We got some photos of a train going by. I found a tumbleweed. I still have it; I brought it home with me.

The tow truck came all way from Rapid Road Service in Van Horn to get us. Luckily, they had a tire that fit my car. The whole theme of this trip was driving, and it would have been stressful to do it on a spare tire. They saved the trip.

FM-170
Our goal was to drive FM-170, which follows the border between Mexico and the United States. Gas stations are few and far between. You're driving through mountains with views of the Rio Grande. There's elevation changes, mountains, all these beautiful views all the time, and Mexico on the other side.

We did two hikes: the Hoodoo Trailhead, named for the large rock formations called hoodoos, and Closed Canyon, a canyon that literally closes off until it's only water and you can't get through. We went right down to the Rio Grande River and tried to imagine how they could erect a wall. It's amazing that you can walk across the river and be in another country.

On our way back, we stopped at Hotel Settles, a historic Art Deco hotel in downtown Big Spring that reopened after undergoing a beautiful renovation. It's a good halfway point between Marfa and DFW, but it also had some neat historical items. We treated it like a museum stop.

When we got back, we stopped at Spiral Diner in Fort Worth, and then I took him to DFW Airport in time for his flight. He's done a lot of road trips and he said that Highway 170 was one of the best he's seen in the United States.

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

Napa wine brand The Debate uncorks new Texas Hill Country tasting room

Brandon Watson
Aug 21, 2026 | 10:10 am
The Debate wine vineyards
The Debate/ Facebook
The Debate will source both Napa Valley and Hill Country grapes.

Need further proof that the Texas wine industry has arrived? Acclaimed Napa Valley wine brand The Debate is expanding into the Hill Country with plans to open a new Stonewall tasting room in spring 2027.

The brand was founded in 2010 with a slightly esoteric philosophy. The Debate believes that wine isn’t just a product, but a way of “fostering connection through conversation.”

One topic will surely be about the finer points of Napa versus Hill Country terroir. The tasting room will pour The Debate's top-rated wines from California alongside new bottles made from Texas fruit. Additional wine programs under the brand's umbrella will target a range of wine drinkers.

"We've always believed that wine is at its best when it brings people together," said Todd Kerlin, the brand's general manager, in a statement. "Texas Hill Country is writing a genuinely exciting chapter in wine right now, and we saw an opportunity to be part of something real here, not to import an experience, but to build one that belongs to this place and the people in it."

The Debate tasting room Once completed, The Debate's tasting room will presumably look less like The Sims.Rendering courtesy of The Debate

Wine industry vet Jean Hoefliger will spearhead the project in Texas. He's not an area newb — he's spent the past five years working with Hill Country producers with Texas Wine Consulting.

"After years of working across wine regions around the world, nothing prepared me for Texas," Hoefliger said. "The energy here is unlike anywhere else, and so is the sense of place."

The Debate plans to partner with regional restaurants and take part in Hill Country wine events as part of its rollout. Membership details, programming, and information on the brand's first Texas releases are expected to be announced closer to the opening.

Once open, it will join two other recently opened tasting rooms on Wine Road 290 between Fredericksburg and Johnson City: playful concept Acquired Taste Wines in Stonewall and Rebecca Caroline, William Chris’ new sparkling wine tasting room in the historic Hye post office.

wine hill country stonewall wine road 290 openings
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