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    The Farmer Diaries

    Why a little pessimism is good for a thriving garden

    Marshall Hinsley
    Jun 23, 2013 | 6:00 am

    As the end of June nears, I couldn't be more satisfied with the way my crops are shaping up. But I'm also learning that a touch of pessimism may be a requirement for success in farming.

    My cantaloupe plants are vining out like sea monsters. My squash is robust — not a single casualty to pests or drought so far. I'm even harvesting okra sooner this year than in the past.

    This appearance of success has diminished my innate tendency to worry. But a wise farmer operates under the assumption that something is going wrong in the garden. How could it not? There's no way for exotic plants from all parts of the world to grow in one climate at the same time of year, exposed to all sorts of pests, without some form of failure lurking in the midst of it all.

    Hydrophobia
    For example, I realized that I overestimated our recent rainfall. Rather than my soil being moist and fertile, it's so dry that it has become hydrophobic, a condition in which the soil actually repels water.

    A wise farmer operates under the assumption that something is going wrong in the garden.

    Texas' heavy clay soils are prone to hydrophobia. Usually clay soils are dependable sponges of water, trapping moisture when rain is abundant and releasing it when rainfall ceases for the summer. But the state's persistent drought has changed that. Even heavy rains now do little more than wet the surface of the soil; the water pools up and runs off to the nearest creek or watershed, leaving the soil deep down as dry as it was before the rain.

    Once soil has become hydrophobic, rainfall needs to be a slow drizzle that lasts for more than an hour to get down deep into the soil near the plant's roots — the sort of rainfall we rarely see anymore outside of winter. To supplement that rainfall, we have to drip water into hydrophobic soil slowly, no faster than a gallon per hour.

    To that end, I've been hand-watering certain beds and crops with my stored rainwater. But I skipped my tomatoes, mistakenly assuming that the mulch was keeping them in good shape. This week I realized my mistake when I began to see a sudden change in the tomatoes: They started turning yellow one day, then brown the next, with their leaves becoming crispy.

    Clueless that my soil was anything but perfect, I initially assumed that a fungal disease called fusarium wilt was to blame. The humid weather we've been having is a perfect environment for the disease, and every year it has claimed a few of my tomato plants. Presuming this was another fungal attack, I sprayed the leaves with a solution of water and neem oil, an organic fungal control made with oil from neem trees.

    Several days later, the symptoms persisted. That's when I stuck my finger into the soil at the root zone of the tomatoes and found that the soil was as dry as cornmeal. I hadn't even suspected it.

    Fire up the drip
    Plants can endure a little strain and pop back to being healthy if their ailment is caught in time. But when plants are stressed for a long time, they'll die no matter what. Worried that my tomatoes were reaching the point of no return, I set out immediately to take corrective action.

    "Having a green thumb" is less about how well a farmer grows a crop and more about how well a farmer predicts problems and gets them under control.

    My first move was to start up my drip irrigation system, set in place among my raised beds. Drip irrigation is a thorough way to water the garden, but you can go through a thousand gallons in two hours. I wait as long as possible to start using it because it depletes my rainwater storage quickly. I need to pace my use of the water so that it will last through the summer until the rainfall begins again in autumn.

    But now there was no more time to delay. I attached all the hoses from the irrigation system to a pump at the base of a 1,500-gallon rain tank and turned on the power. Immediately, I heard air escaping from the long lines of hoses and dripping nozzles; this was normal. But then a few seconds later, I heard the sound of gushing water from just about everywhere. This was not normal.

    Apparently, late spring freezes did more than kill a couple of unprotected plants. Throughout the system, connectors and valves had been cracked from ice having formed in them. They were now no longer able to withstand the water pressure.

    Water that should have been dripping lightly onto the plants was pouring out into the pathways instead. The drip irrigation system was dead — another problem that caught me completely unaware.

    My only option was to hand-water all the tomato plants, one by one. This required a long hose with a hand sprinkler attachment, with the water trickling slowly so that the moisture could penetrate the soil and get down to the roots. I started the process at dinnertime and finished at midnight, seven hours later.

    Most of my time spent watering was after dark, so I had to be careful not to wet the foliage of the tomatoes or else they would indeed be exposed to fungal disease.

    Despite the urgency of this unplanned addition to my agenda, I wasn't unhappy with my open-air task. Ever since I worked at Six Flags over Texas on the Runaway Mine Train as a teen, I've always preferred working outside, regardless of the time or weather conditions. As night fell, a bright waxing moon obscured slightly by clouds helped illuminated the pathways so that I could easily walk through narrow pathways between the bushy plants.

    It was difficult, though, navigating around the huge spider webs that reached across pathways and even spanned between trees. The light-brown spiders that occupy the webs are about the size of a grape and cast their webs only at night, just as the sun sets.

    In the past, they made my skin crawl when I walked into their nets and felt their soft bodies bounce off of my face. Now I’ve become habituated to them, and they’re almost cute to me — hundreds of coworkers keeping my pests in check. I avoid them now not because they spook me but because I don’t want to disturb their work.

    Though I spent seven hours watering that night, that still gave the plants only enough water to keep them from dying until I could return in the light of day. The next day, I watered them more thoroughly. At least half of the plants appear to be able to recover, but I think that there will be casualties.

    Honestly, it's not only my plants that wilt easily; so does my tenacity when I face obstacles. It's easy for dead plants and broken equipment to make me feel that I need to abandon farming and get an office job somewhere, concluding that I’m just no good at this.

    But this time, my setback reminded me of something said by Mr. Bachelor, my seventh-grade science teacher at T.C. Wilemon Junior High and former member of the Air Force: "Pilots don't fly planes; pilots simply control their fall." The saying recasts the task at hand for pilots and reminds them that all planes hit the ground, one way or the other.

    Likewise, all gardens fail. If they make it through summer drought and pests or the occasional storm, they still die off in the first freeze of November. Success or "having a green thumb" is less about how well a farmer grows a crop and more about how well a farmer predicts problems and gets them under control.

    Having problems is not the problem. Failing to control the problems is the problem. This difference in perspective is subtle, but for me, it’s a difference that keeps me from giving up my aspirations of farming when I make a costly mistake.

    Water gushes out from broken drip irrigation lines and onto the pathways on North Texas farm.

    Photo by Marshall Hinsley
    Water gushes out from broken drip irrigation lines and onto the pathways on North Texas farm.
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    Tastemaker Award winners

    Dallas' best restaurants and chefs revealed at 2026 Tastemaker Awards

    CultureMap Staff
    May 7, 2026 | 8:50 pm
    Mamani
    Photo by Kathy Tran
    Restaurant of the Year: Mamani

    After months of buildup, the best restaurants, chefs, and bars of the year were revealed and celebrated at our 2026 CultureMap Dallas Tastemaker Awards.

    On May 7, the winners were crowned at a tasting event and awards ceremony, hosted by NBC5 Texas Today host Cleo Greene, at Astoria Event Venue in Irving.

    In the weeks leading up to the big event, we published a special editorial series highlighting nominees. A panel of expert judges helped select all of the winners, except Best New Restaurant, which was determined by our readers in a bracket-style tournament.

    Without further delay, let's raise a glass to the 2026 Dallas Tastemaker Awards winners:

    Restaurant of the Year: Mamani
    This French restaurant made a splash immediately when it debuted in 2025, as the Michelin Guide awarded it a coveted one-star rating just 60 days after the doors opened. Even with those lofty expectations, chef Christophe De Lellis has managed to consistently produce some of the city’s finest dishes. From the jaw-dropping veal cordon bleu to the Paris-Brest dessert, everything on the menu at Mamani is a star.

    Chef of the Year: Peja Krstic, Mot Hai Ba, Pillar
    Michelin-recognized Vietnamese restaurant Mot Hai Ba has been going strong for over a decade, and Southern American bistro Pillar has been drumming up buzz in Bishop Arts since 2024. Those concepts from chef Peja Krstic prove his range and skill as both a chef and restaurateur. He’s a frontrunner in Dallas’ culinary scene and beyond, having gained international acclaim when Mot Hai Ba was named a Bib Gourmand restaurant in the inaugural Texas Michelin Guide in 2024.

    Bar of the Year: Ayahuasca Cantina
    While you won’t find this Oak Cliff bar’s namesake psychedelic on the menu, there are still plenty of exciting sips that will shift your frame of mind. The cocktails range from ancient fermented drinks like pulque and tepache to much more modern libations like the Maria, which blends premium Mexican rum with tamarind and cream cheese in what is a texturally fascinating and flavorful drink. It’s the perfect thing to sip before enjoying chef Hugo Galvan’s menu at the adjacent Xaman Cafe.

    Best New Restaurant: Frenchie
    As its name might indicate, this sweet little spot in The Plaza at Preston Center is focused on French cuisine, with Bruno Davaillon, the city’s most stalwart French chef, behind the project and executive chef Reilly Brown currently leading the kitchen. Inside the bright and vivacious dining room, you’ll find classic plates like light and cheesy gougeres, French onion soup, and a spring-y pea risotto. It’s also a must-add to your brunch rotation, thanks to dishes like the Provencale tomato tart.

    Rising Star Chef of the Year: Eduardo Osorio, Meridian
    Executive chef Eduardo Osorio took the reins of Meridian when it staged its big comeback last year, following a 2024 closure and revamp. Under Osorio's direction, Meridian now celebrates seasonal ingredients and the jovial, comforting nature of Italian and New American cuisine against a backdrop of live-fire cooking. Think chilled clams infused with smoky essence, wood-fired chicken, and grilled Spanish octopus.

    Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year: Beverley's Bistro & Bar
    Named for owner Greg Katz’s mother Beverley, this boisterous bistro on Fitzhugh Avenue has been effortlessly balancing chic and casual since its 2019 debut. Its sophisticated interiors and eclectic menu make Beverley’s the exact kind of spot where you want to bring a group of friends and order everything on the menu, especially the caviar-topped latkes and immaculately shucked oysters.

    Dessert Program of the Year: Lucia
    With Maggie Huff, 2026 James Beard finalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef or Baker, at the helm, it’s no surprise Lucia’s dessert program is a standout. The intimate, award-winning Italian eatery in Bishop Arts serves a rotating menu with sweet bites such as semolina cake with roasted grapes, rosemary, honey, and pistachio ice cream. Diners can opt for a tropical escape with coconut sorbet with nectarines and lime and mint pesto. For an earthy experience, there’s the hazelnut frangipane and goat cheese tart with figs and balsamic vinegar ice cream.

    Coffee Shop of the Year: Ascension
    A stalwart of Dallas-Fort Worth’s craft coffee scene since 2012, Ascension now serves its painstakingly sourced beans at six locations across the Metroplex. It’s committed to ethically and sustainably sourcing beans from the planet’s finest coffee growing locations and roasting them at its roastery in Dallas’ Design District, before brewing them into crema-topped shots of espresso or a perfect pourover. And for those who love a sweet latte, Ascension excels at those, too, as anyone who’s tried the popular horchata latte can attest.

    Best Sandwich: Trades Delicatessen
    If you’re looking to splurge on a great sandwich in DFW, Trades Delicatessen is your destination. You won’t find sandwich-chain prices here, but the decadent French dip, made with hand-shaved ribeye and grilled onions, is absolutely worth the cost. The menu also features a stellar turkey melt, plus housemade pastrami and juicy Italian beef.

    ---

    Rhema Joy Bell and Amy McCarthy contributed to this story.

    The CultureMap Tastemaker Awards ceremony was sponsored in Dallas by Maker's Mark, Shutto, NXT LVL Event, Seedlip, Ritual Zero Proof, H-E-B, Marine Foods Express, and S.Pellegrino Acqua Panna. A portion of the proceeds benefited Harvest Project Food Rescue.

    Mamani

    Photo by Kathy Tran

    Restaurant of the Year: Mamani.

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