Park Cities Food News

Village Kitchen and Toko V serve last meal in Highland Park Village

If you like chef Andre Natera's roast chicken and lobster mac and cheese at Village Kitchen and Toko V, you need to reserve a table ASAP. The Highland Park restaurant will serve its final meal March 29.

Owner Brian Twomey posted an update on his Facebook page announcing the closure, following a report on SideDish.

"It's with a heavy heart that I announce the closing of our restaurant operations at Highland Park Village effective March 30, 2014," Twomey said. "It was a difficult business decision, but one that made the most sense. We've been actively looking for a new location for the restaurants over the past couple of months, and we've reached a win-win deal with our landlords to terminate the lease."

The space saw three concepts in its lifespan, beginning in April 2011 with Marquee Grill, which featured Top Chef contestant Tre Wilcox. He departed at the end of 2012, and Natera debuted his first menu in March 2013. First it was a high-end theme; then he revamped it in August 2013 as a more casual spot.

"We loved being here. It was simply a question of economics," Twomey said.

According to SideDish's Nancy Nichols, the space that Twomey and co-owner Mark Hearl had at Highland Park Village had the highest rent per square foot in town.

The closure marks another big departure in Highland Park Village, following the February announcement that the Tom Thumb store will close this year.

Meanwhile, Twomey expressed gratitude to the many people who helped create the restaurant and shared his own degree of personal involvement.

"For those of you in the industry, you know just how hard these things can be to get off the ground and keep them that way; and how many people's effort it takes to even find just a little bit of success," he said. "All I can say is THANK YOU to all who lent a hand. I've been blessed with the opportunity to partner with some of the very best at their chosen craft, and I look forward to the next leap of insane optimism.

"On a personal note, this restaurant was (is) one of my most passionate ventures, and one that took almost two years to launch," he said. "I spent hundreds of hours in meetings with architects, designers, our esteemed chefs and beverage gurus, artisan food makers, glassware and plate ware vendors, logo and branding designers, etc.

"I met incredible people that helped make an idea a reality, and enjoyed meeting all the customers that graced our door. I think that is probably the hardest, knowing that the 'business' side will work out just fine. It is still painful to leave something you created — no matter how logical the reason."

He predicted that the final night of service on Saturday, March 29, would be "one hell of a party."

"Andre is going to be doing some 'wrenching' in the kitchen over the next two weeks as we continue to firm up the next iteration, so come on by for dinner to see some unique things from him," Twomey said.

Village Kitchen chef Andre Natera followed Top Chef contestant Tre Wilcox.

Courtesy photo

Village Kitchen chef Andre Natera followed Top Chef contestant Tre Wilcox.

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RIP Al

Beloved Dallas restaurateur Al Biernat dies at 69 after ALS battle

Dallas restaurateur Al Biernat, RIP

Beloved Dallas restaurateur Al Biernat, founder of the acclaimed local steakhouse Al Biernat's, passed away on November 13, following a battle with amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, also called ALS or Lou Gehrig’s disease; he was 69.

Biernat was one of Dallas' all-time great hospitality figures, dating back to his days at The Palm steakhouse, for whom he worked in Los Angeles, Houston, and Dallas.

Biernat founded his namesake restaurant in 1998 on Oak Lawn Avenue, where his standard of excellence and doting charm made it a destination for special occasions, Park Cities swells, and celebrities in town.

His sense of hospitality had little competition in Dallas. He was a charming and personable host who genuinely liked people, and it didn't matter whether you were Conan O'Brien, David Crosby, or one of the other high-profile diners that visited his restaurants — or else just a regular schlub: He had a knack for making everyone feel special and remembered.

Biernat was born on August 20, 1955 and grew up in Michigan, then lived in Colorado, New York, Los Angeles, and Houston, before moving to Dallas to work at The Palm in the West End, where his dynamic presence gave the restaurant an incomparable vitality; it closed in 2017.

He opened Al Biernat's at 4217 Oak Lawn Ave. in 1998, followed by a second location in North Dallas at 5251 Spring Valley Rd. in 2017.

He began to experience ALS symptoms in May 2023, was diagnosed in December, and revealed his condition in February 2024. The revelation was met with an outpouring of sympathy and well wishes from the hospitality industry — a sign of the high regard in which he was held.

The average life expectancy for people with ALS is two to five years after diagnosis. Symptoms can begin in the muscles that control speech and swallowing, or in the hands, arms, legs, or feet. He began to have difficulty communicating in September, and spent his last days in a hospice.

On September 18, he broached the topic of dying, before ending on a note of gratitude to friends and family.

"Having Bulbar ALS I am realistic about my future," he said. "Friends and family have asked me if I’m afraid of dying, and this is what I say to them. Because of the salvation of Jesus, I will be rejoicing in my spirit to see him in all of his glory. Since we are all flesh, soul, and spirit, only my flesh is being left behind. But don’t get me wrong, I have a blessed life in this world, with a loving wife, and a beautiful family and many wonderful and caring friends. I am grateful!"

Both Al Biernat's locations will continue to remain open under the management of Biernat's nephew Brad Fuller, as they have for nearly the past two years.

Biernat is survived by Fuller, as well as his wife Jeannie and three daughters: Angelica Saylor, Kaitlin Biernat Connell, and Jess Biernat, plus five grandsons and two granddaughters. . According to family members, details regarding a celebration of his life will be announced soon.

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