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    Chef Eddy in the House

    Pakpao restaurant in Dallas Design District plates up authentic Thai

    Teresa Gubbins
    Jun 25, 2013 | 5:17 am
    • Pakpao clay pot with mung bean, noodle, ginger, shiitake mushroom and shrimp.
      Photo by Airon Peralta
    • Vegetables with roasted tomato sauce, an item not commonly found at a typicalThai restaurant.
      Photo by Airon Peralta
    • Bamboo shoot salad with red onion and mint, a dish from the Northeastern regionof Thailand.
      Photo by Airon Peralta
    • Taro custard with poached pear.
      Photo by Airon Peralta
    • Those three domes are panna cotta, accompanied by a chocolatey-looking mound offorbidden black rice.
      Photo by Airon Peralta

    Tiffanee and Richard Ellman, who've scored success with restaurants Oak and Belly & Trumpet, have opened a third: Pakpao, an authentic Thai spot in the Dallas Design District.

    Pakpao features regional Thai cuisine, prepared by chef Eddy Thretipthuangsin, who was born and raised in Thailand. He moved to Dallas last week.

    A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, Thretipthuangsin (pronounced "three-tip-WANG-sin") comes from a restaurant family. He and his mother, Patty, owned a restaurant in Bridgehampton called M and E; last year he had a pan-Asian restaurant in Florida called L'Orient, featuring dishes such as pork belly with pickled daikon and Wagyu beef with Chinese broccoli.

    "It's merging classical French technique with bold Thai flavors," says chef Eddy Thretipthuangsin.

    When his mother and brother moved to Dallas, he wanted to join them. He contacted the Ellmans, offering a tasting of what he could do. They simultaneously realized that he embodied exactly what they were seeking: a Thai chef with experience in the fine-dining realm.

    "I'm from Thailand, but I trained at Le Cordon Bleu, where everything is the classical French method," he says. "It's merging classical French technique with bold Thai flavors."

    Pakpao, which means kite – and there are some hanging from the ceiling – is more authentic Thai than anything he's done for the past few years.

    "I don't usually go to Thai restaurants in the United States," he says. "It doesn't matter where it is. It doesn't make me feel like home. It could be that I'm too critical because I'm a chef.

    "But for years and years, whenever I went to Thai restaurants, I would always think, 'Why do we have to change or break away from our roots, or from the origin of the cuisine?' That's something I believe in."

    Dish by dish
    Chicken meatballs are something not commonly seen in other local Thai restaurants. Thretipthuangsin uses a recipe from his mother and grandmother that has coriander and lime. He serves them with a shaved cucumber salad and Thai yellow curry.

    Steamed prawn with mung bean noodle and shiitake mushroom comes in a clay pot. The broth is heavy on ginger, but it's one of the less spicy dishes on the menu, an option for folks who don't want spicy.

    Bamboo shoot salad is "classic Northeastern style Thai cuisine," Thretipthuangsin says. "But you see it everywhere. It's almost like a comfort food to us. The bamboo shoot has been pickled and cooked; its aroma and flavor is strong. You put it together with mellow flavors to get a good balance."

    One thing he does that many other Thai restaurants do not: vegetables.

    "Your classic Thai dish doesn’t come with vegetables," he says. "Barbecue chicken would maybe have a piece of cucumber. We came up with an assortment of seasonal vegetables, served with your choice of dipping sauce: roasted tomato, roasted chile, and roasted fish."

    Desserts are beautiful, including poached pear with custard made from coconut milk, egg and taro root; and panna cotta with coconut forbidden rice.

    "The panna cotta is like a Thai dessert that's been deconstructed," he says. "We cook the black forbidden rice cook in coconut milk. And we use pandan to make panna cotta. That's a custard that's usually served in a looser form, more like a dip or a fondue. I love that dessert, with the aroma of pandan. In the desserts is a place where you really see the combination of French and Thai together."

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    Coffee News

    New coffee concept from Florida to open 3 locations in the Dallas area

    Raven Jordan
    May 13, 2025 | 3:03 pm
    Qargo Coffee
    Qargo
    Qargo coffee and pastry

    An Italian-inspired coffee shop is coming to Dallas-Fort Worth: Called Qargo Coffee, it's a chain from Florida that will open three DFW locations in summer 2025.

    The cafes will be at the following addresses:

    • Grand Prairie: 7501 Lake Ridge Pkwy. at Lake Ridge Center
    • Irving: 3990 N. Belt Line Rd. in a former Wendy's
    • Fort Worth: NWQ of I-35 and Basswood Blvd. #100

    Qargo Coffee was founded in Miami by Sam Shenouda and Bernadette Bastorous, along with development manager Mark Bastorous, who opened their first store — a kiosk in Tampa International Plaza — in 2022. There are currently more than a dozen locations in Florida, California, Michigan, Ohio, and Washington D.C., as well as one in Edinburg, Texas. (The company is also the subject of a complaint by the Federal Tarde Commission for failing to disclose information required by the Franchise Rule, a case that is still pending.)

    Their menu features coffee and desserts with an Italian theme including a partnership with Lavazza, the iconic Italian coffee roaster, for all of its coffee products.

    Menu items include cold brew, boba tea, seasonal drinks, plant-based Lotus Energy drinks, and drinks crafted for pets such as sweet potato puree topped with whipped cream.

    They also serve all-day breakfast items such as breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, tiramisu, chocolate ganache cheesecake, French macarons, and mini Dutch pancakes topped with chocolate syrup, powdered sugar, and whipped cream.

    Each location also customizes offerings with regionally inspired beverages and food items.

    Introducing the concept to DFW is franchisee Kushal Bastakoti, an art gallery owner who has owned and operated cafes in Dallas and Fort Worth, such as boba tea and specialty drinks shop Feng Cha, for 10 years.

    Bastakoti says he found the brand appealing because of how it uses art as a way to connect the community and also to share some of the art found at his gallery, Kush Art Gallery and Lounge in Fort Worth.

    "Each location will be feature an open show art gallery and activations inside in addition to drive-thru ordering," Bastakoti says.

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