The beautiful old gas station on the edge of Deep Ellum will see new life.
Photo courtesy of Thunderbird
Another operator is taking a crack at the beautiful ex-gas station at 3400 Commerce St. in Deep Ellum: Kim Finch, owner of Double Wide/Single Wide, and manager Joel Stephenson, will open a place called Thunderbird, a full-service bar with bites.
According to a release, the duo are currently renovating the space and will open in spring 2020.
The building is on the eastern edge of Deep Ellum bordering Exposition Park. For decades, it was owned by Maynard Riegel, who operated Riegel's Gulf Service; he died in January 2016.
The space was then nabbed by Sam Wynne who, with his partners from Braindead including Jeff Fryman and Andrew Huerter, opened a trendy concept called Bowls & Tacos. That closed in February 2019.
Finch has prospered at that end of Deep Ellum with Double Wide, a fun and informal trailer park bar she opened in 2003. She's also persevered on Greenville Avenue with Single Wide, a smaller Double Wide spinoff.
According to the release, Finch's goal with Thunderbird is to retain a sense of Deep Ellum's history. Their renovation will embrace the retro-vintage aesthetic and honor Riegel by giving a nod to the original gas station in its decor, ambiance, and menu.
"We're focused on the kind of service people offered back in the days of fill-station attendants and soda jerks who always remember your name," says Finch in a statement.
Dallas-Fort Worth has some of the best barbecue restaurants in the state of Texas right now, and that fact has received another confirmation, this time from a YouTube star.
Joshua Weissman is a chef-turned-YouTuber who recently went on a statewide expedition to try some of Texas Monthly's best barbecue restaurants. His conclusion: The best Texas barbecue can be found in DFW.
While many may snub the idea of "just another YouTuber" reviewing Texas barbecue joints, Weissman cut his teeth working in the restaurant industry, and was once the lead cook at Uchiko in Austin. His YouTube channel has amassed over 10 million subscribers, and he's written two New York Times Bestsellingcookbooks.
Using Texas Monthly's2021 list (the newest edition will be released later this year) as his guide, Weissman documented his journey alongside new Texas resident and private chef Olivia Tiedemann. The duo also visited the four Texas barbecue restaurants that recently earned Michelin Stars.
Four BBQ in DFW Weissman ranked Goldee's Barbecue in Fort Worth the highest on the list out of the 17 total Texas barbecue restaurants he visited. He even invited Texas Monthly's Dallas-based barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn to join him during their tasting (which was their final stop on their journey) who had rated this hometown staple No. 1 in 2021.
Weissman had nothing but good things to say about Goldee's classic side dishes and its brisket, giving them 9.5 points (out of 10) for sides, and 29.2 points out of 30 for the brisket.
"The [brisket] seasoning is ridiculous, it's exactly where it should be," he said. "It's got the smoke flavor I want, but it's not overwhelmingly smoky. This is worth traveling back for."
Goldee's BBQ in Fort Worth has earned loads of acclaim.
Photo by Joey Garcia
Coming in a close second in DFW was Cattleack Barbeque in Farmers Branch, which received 28.3 points for brisket, and 9.5 points for its sides. In 2021, Texas Monthly ranked Cattleack the No. 6 best barbecue in the state.
Cattleack's side dishes – Hatch chili mac & cheese, Granny's coleslaw, potato salad, and burnt end beans – were exceptionally elevated versions of classic barbecue sides, according to Weissman. Tiedemann was thrilled with the creamy texture, and cheesy flavor of the mac and cheese.
But it was Cattleack's Japanese-American hybrid Texas wagyu brisket that stole the show. Both the lean and fatty brisket earned high praise (and high rankings) across all three categories from both judges.
"As a whole, [Cattleack] is where I'd probably come back to and be like, 'This was the complete barbecue experience that was my favorite so far,'" Tiedemann said.
The two other DFW barbecue restaurants that made the cut were both in the Fort Worth area:
Panther City BBQ, Fort Worth Brisket score: 19 points (7 for flavor; 5 for texture; 7 for salt level) Sides: 8.5 points
Weissman said all of Panther City's classic side dishes were "very solid" but the borracho beans were a standout choice out of the four. As for the brisket, he was unimpressed with the lean's salt level, but he did mention its flavor was unique and had "a little heat." But he was disappointed in its texture.
"Sadly, the lean was probably one of the driest I think I've ever had, and we really didn't love how thick it was cut," he said.
Dayne's Craft BBQ, Aledo Brisket score: 25 points (8 for flavor; 8 for texture; 9 for salt level) Sides: 8 points
Weissman praised Dayne's brisket for its deep smokiness and saltiness, but Tiedemann wasn't as much of a fan of the classic smoke flavor. The brisket's only shortcoming was its texture, as it had a "heavily unrendered fat cap."
Dayne's apple slaw was the most surprising (yet tasty) side dish they tried, but Weissman said the Frito pie baked beans were the best he's had on their entire barbecue journey.
The rest of Texas
Other Texas barbecue restaurants Weissman visited, with his ratings, include:
Burnt Bean Company, Seguin – 28.4 points for brisket, 8.7 points for sides
2M Smokehouse, San Antonio – 24.8 for brisket, 8 for sides
Franklin Barbecue, Austin – 26.5 for brisket, 5 for sides
Interstellar Barbecue, Austin – 26.9 for brisket, 9.3 for sides
La Barbecue, Austin – 25.5 for brisket, 8.8 for sides
LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, Austin – 28.8 for brisket, no score for non-traditional sides
Terry Black's BBQ, Austin – 24 for brisket, 6.5 for sides
Snow's BBQ, Lexington – 27.2 for brisket, 8.7 for sides
Louie Mueller, Taylor – 24.8 for brisket, 5 for sides
CorkScrew BBQ, Spring – 24 for brisket, 7 for sides
Truth BBQ, Houston – 27 for brisket, 7.5 for sides
Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, Tomball – 20 for brisket, 6.5 for sides
Evie Mae's, Wolfforth – 25.5 for brisket, 6 for sides