Everything's Cooler in Marfa

The coolest small town in Texas lures big names to Trans-Pecos Festival of Music & Love

Marfa could have been like any of the hundreds of tiny Texas towns that no one has ever heard of, relegated to dying a slow death while young people fled in droves. Lucky for us, it was destined for a different fate.

In 1956, the epic film Giant starring James Dean was filmed in Marfa, sparking film fans to come to the West Texas town to see the sites and catch a glimpse of the mysterious Marfa Lights. Its famous art scene was born two decades later, when minimalist artist Donald Judd moved to Marfa from New York in the 1970s.

Since then, artists, musicians, hoteliers and other creatives have been flocking to Marfa — either to visit, live or work. This convergence of art and ranching cultures has infused a magical and somewhat psychedelic quality to the town.

Expect an eclectic array of folk, country, indie and Americana performances from artists such as M. Ward, Junior Brown and Charlie Mars. But the Trans-Pecos experience is more than just music.

Now you can experience that magic for yourself September 12-15 at the eighth annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music & Love, which celebrates music, art and community under Marfa's expansive canopy of stars. The festival takes place on the groovy grounds at El Cosmico, a Liz Lambert (Hotel San Jose, Hotel Saint Cecilia) property that is part vintage trailer court, part tepee campground situated in a community space that fosters artistic and intellectual exchange.

During the four-day fun fest, expect an eclectic array of folk, country, indie, Americana and singer-songwriter performances from artists such as M. Ward, Junior Brown and Charlie Mars. But the Trans-Pecos experience offers a lot more than just music.

Attend arts and crafts workshops from Oil & Cotton, Snake Oil, Flatstock and Knitta Please; check out art, photography and video installations; or attend an epic game of sandlot baseball between rival teams Austin's Texas Playboys and Marfa's Los Yonke Gallos. Camping spots are also available for those who want to stay onsite at El Cosmico.

Happily, the food is far from typical festival fare. Food vendors dish out vittles Thursday and Friday nights; on Saturday night, attendees can partake in a $15 dinner by Frank, offered as a barbecue plate or a vegan taco plate. Attendees have breakfast options each day, including Sunday's charity breakfast benefiting 93.5 Marfa Public Radio. Those who prefer to bring their own foodstuffs can take advantage of the communal grills.

For some retail therapy, shop the marketplace for art, crafts, wearables and other survival necessities from the likes of Filth Mart, Poppy & Someday, Cambria and Alchemy. Or check out trunk shows by One Trip Pass and JM Dry Goods. To unwind, book a spa treatment in the El Cosmetico teepee.

Trans-Pecos event prices start at $30 per day for just the music. Additional packages — including camping — range from $80-$140 per day. Pre-registration ends on September 6, and prices go up at the gate.

Camp on Liz Lambert's El Cosmico property during the Trans-Pecos Festival.

Photo by Andrew Collins

Camp on Liz Lambert's El Cosmico property during the Trans-Pecos Festival.

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Park News

Texas agency acquires 1,100 acres for new state park in Hill Country

Texas Parks and Wildlife Department/tpwd.texas.gov

The new park will be across the river from Colorado Bend State Park (pictured).

Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) has acquired a new patch of land that they plan to use to create a new state park. According to a release, the agency has acquired 1,100 acres on the border of Burnet County and Lampasas County, 90 miles northwest of Austin — joining a prior acquisition of 2,020 acres made in January, and helping to push the state park into the realm of reality.

The 1,100 acres are located across from the existing Colorado Bend State Park, on the other side of the Colorado River. Within the land are a mile and a half of Yancey Creek (which is about four miles long and empties into the Colorado River), limestone bluffs, and several natural springs.

Before this second purchase had been made, the park was only a proposition. Now, TPWD and specifically chairman Jeff Hildebrand of the Texas Parks and Wildlife Commission are referring to the 3,000-acre state park as a reality.

Funds for the purchase came from a one-time funding appropriation as well as sporting goods sales taxes.

Development of the state park will come from a different source: a $1 billion, voter-approved Centennial Parks Conservation Fund. The fund was created in 2023 and has also led to purchases doubling the size of Enchanted Rock Natural State Area near Fredericksburg.

“I’d like to thank our incredible team for their hard work in not only acquiring these properties, but also the recent additions at Enchanted Rock and the purchase of Lake Colorado City State Park,” said TPWD executive director David Yoskowitz in the release. “The voters of Texas also deserve a huge thank you for saying ‘yes’ to the Centennial Parks Conservation Fund, which will make the development of this park possible.”

TPWD has been gathering input from the public about what types of recreational opportunities they'd like to see. According to the release, the next step is using the input to develop a plan. Considerations also include habitat protection and conservation of the natural springs in the area. The land is also 10 miles upstream from Lake Buchanan, further informing the possibilities.

"This acquisition will give visitors access to the Colorado River, a beautiful creek and the diverse landscapes that are featured across the property," said Rodney Franklin, director of Texas State Parks. "We look forward to generations of Texans enjoying the scenic views of the unique post oak woodland and outdoor adventures awaiting on this property."

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