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Magazine lists

Only one Dallas eatery earns spot on Esquire best new restaurant list

Teresa Gubbins
Dec 3, 2024 | 10:17 am
Chicken yakitori Mabo

Yakitori at Mabo Dallas

Photo courtesy of Joey Stewart

One Dallas restaurant has made a prominent annual list: It's the 2024 rendition of Esquire magazine's Best New Restaurants in America and the only Dallas entry on the list is Mābo, the Asian restaurant in Preston Center from acclaimed chef Masayuki Otaka.

The newly released list has 35 restaurants, with the majority of the entries in New York and California, including the top restaurant of the year: Four Kings, a Cantonese restaurant in San Francisco.

The list is dominated by Asian cuisine: Of the 35 restaurants, fully one third are Asian.

The authors are "Jeff Gordinier and The Esquire Editors," which includes Omar Mamoon, a San Francisco-based writer (who calls himself not a critic but a "curator" oh dear) who got dispatched to Dallas. In his writeup of Mabo, he waxes on about chicken being his favorite before hailing Mabo as the best place in America to eat chicken yakitori, a Japanese grilling technique.

"… When you consider the Japanese art of yakitori, in which skewered chicken parts grill over binchotan coals until they achieve maximum smokiness and juiciness—well, this is where the bird gets transcendent," he writes. "At Mābo, his eight-seat counter, chef Masayuki Otaka prepares a two-hour meal in which poultry is the star. He sources free-ranging heritage breeds from Pennsylvania, and he lets you order additional skewers—maybe you’re in the mood for more tail, or for the fatty triangular nub known as the pope’s nose—when the planned courses have reached their completion."

Otaka is the former chef/owner of Teppo on Greenville Avenue (which closed in 2022 and is now home to sushi restaurant Kaiyo) who opened Mabo in spring 2024. It's an omakase-style spot with a 14-course tasting experience, with two tastings per night at 5:30 and 8:30 pm, only eight guests per seating, for $200. Otaka has a devoted following, and his version of omakase is less about raw fish and more about the yakitori-style of cooking for which he was famous at Teppo, featuring grilled meats, mushrooms, and other bits on a skewer.

Despite its coastal focus, the list does not completely ignore Texas: Houston restaurant Late August also earns a spot on the list along with nods to Tavel Bristol-Joseph and Karla Espinosa, owners of Nicosi in San Antonio who are pronounced Pastry Chefs of the Year.
___________________________
Eric Sandler contributed to this story.

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Pizza News

Famed pizzeria Slice House by Tony Gemignani closes Frisco location

Teresa Gubbins
Oct 28, 2026 | 9:02 am
Slice House
Slice House
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A celebrity-chef-owned pizzeria from California has closed its only location in Texas: Slice House by Tony Gemignani, the fast-casual pizza brand by world-renowned pizzaiolo Tony Gemignani, closed its first and only Texas location in Frisco at 5995 Preston Rd. #102.

A representative from the company's corporate headquarters confirmed that the restaurant closed in mid-October, and that the concept was for now kaput in DFW. A second location, penciled in for McKinney at 7851 El Dorado Pkwy. and marked as "coming soon," will not be opening, after all.

"The franchisee is no longer developing the DFW area," the representative said.

The DFW franchisee was Daniel Hawkins, who also owns Black Hawk Brewery in Prosper, originally planned to open up to 20 locations. Hawkins was unavailable for comment.

Gemignani is the 13-time World Pizza Champion who, inspired by a pizzeria in Naples, Italy, opened the first Slice House — a fast-casual concept — in 2010, then began franchising in 2023. There are now 37 locations open and nine more marked as "coming soon."

The concept was unique in that it featured four styles of crust under one roof: traditional New York, homestyle Grandma, rustic Sicilian, and Detroit-style, all available by the slice or in a whole pizza.

Following a company tradition of creating a pizza specific to each location, they devised a pizza for Frisco called the Texan with brisket, BBQ sauce, bacon, and onion.

While pizza was the menu staple, the menu also comprised pasta, wings, and salads. Plus craft beers, premium wines, non-alcoholic sodas, and juices.

According to the corporate rep, food was not the issue. The chain continues to expand, with recent openings in Idaho, Denver, Ventura, California, and Brentwood, Northern California.

Perhaps it was a bad omen that the Frisco location's debut occurred in the thick of an epically bad ice storm, first opening on January 23, then closing due to inclement weather before reopening on January 28.

"The Frisco location was never able to hit the ground running," the representative said. "Location was a big part of it. The restaurant was on the wrong side of the highway."

He said that the closure presented a good opportunity for someone to come in and purchase "lightly used assets for a fraction of the cost," and that the company was also in conversation with another operator who'd expressed interest in the concept.

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