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    The Farmer Diaries

    Texas farmer dissects his obsession with Israeli melons

    Marshall Hinsley
    Marshall Hinsley
    Jun 21, 2015 | 6:00 am

    A friend recently told me, “You have a passion for melons.” We had been talking about Israeli melons — that I grow them because they’re sweeter than all others, how many I had planted in a field, how much I expected to earn for their sale, how difficult it is to describe their flavor, and how I wait all year for the two weeks I get to enjoy them.

    Is that passion? I’ve known people with a passion, such as Jim Shermbeck, Rita Beving and Molly Rooke, among others, who’ve dedicated decades to fighting the pollution of our air and water to protect the natural environment.

    I’ve met John Darling, who is committed to composting. He’s pushed UT Arlington to dispose of uneaten food, pruned tree branches and other organic matter that would have otherwise been trucked to a landfill. Instead of paying for disposal, the university is turning the material into valuable fertilizer for the campus’ landscaping and a nearby community garden.

    There’s nothing wrong with lettuce. But it doesn’t excite me like melons do.

    Kathy Rogers is devoted to birds, caring for all the wild egrets, eagles, hawks, owls and even grackles that are brought to her at Rogers Wildlife Rehabilitation Center. She turns no bird in need away, and makes do with a budget that doesn’t cover the expenses. It’s her passion; she finds a way.

    My wife, Allee, has a passion for art. She’s content only when she makes progress every day toward getting her ideas out into the world. She never tires of it or finds something else that distracts her. The result is something beautiful every time, despite the fact that where she paints has no air conditioning or heating and is subject to the weather and invasion by our cats.

    I really like melons and have since I was a child. I’d come home after school in the spring and sit with them, water them and watch them as they grew. They’re one of the first crops I tended when I returned to gardening after college, and I’ve been growing them ever since.

    Sure, there have been setbacks, such as the record-breaking heat wave of 2011. Before that, I created a disaster of aphids when I tried to grow them in a compact way so that their vines would “carpet” the field, rather than spacing them far apart as recommended.

    Most years I have been rewarded for my efforts. But this year looks like it will be a complete bust. Three months of flooding rainfall have stunted the hundreds of melon vines I have growing on about an acre of land.

    Where 6-foot long vines should now be pregnant with hundreds of ripening melons, I see only small, dwarfed vines less than a foot long. They’ve not flowered or set fruit. They’re 3 months old, and that’s about their lifespan.

    Of course, I could just buy a melon from the store, but it wouldn’t be one I grew.

    I’ve determined they’re not going to yield anything, even though I have invested more time and effort into weed control this year than ever before, by laying out several hundred yards of weed suppression fabric and weighing it down with wooden pallets.

    I had hope when a couple of melons turned ripe in one of my 20 Dutch buckets I’m trying out this year. These are my experiment in growing melons hydroponically. I’m searching out new ways to grow melons because I’m not sure that Texas will always have years of abundant rain.

    The ripened fruit seemed all right on the outside, and it smelled fragrant and sweet. But when I cut into them and took a bite, they were bland.

    My last shot at having a vine-ripe, fresh Israeli melon from my own garden this year may come from the seed I sowed after the rains ended. If these produce, I’ll have something to show for myself, maybe in September.

    I’ve also contemplated growing melons in the winter, in a greenhouse with supplemental lighting. Melons produce long vines that make lighting them more difficult than, say, a head of lettuce. Perhaps the vines could be strung up a trellis, with long fluorescent tubes hung vertically to maximize the light hitting the leaves. They’d grow tall rather than sprawled out over the ground.

    They’d need heat too. The summer heat is what makes them sweet. They’d need cycles of watering followed by drying at the roots to make the sugars form in the fruit.

    Pollination in an insect-proof greenhouse in the middle of winter would be tricky. But maybe I could tear off the male blooms and use them to pollinate the female flowers.

    Soon, my family may venture into commercial crop production in a growing facility that makes the weather a non-issue. If so, I’d start with lettuce as my main crop, but that would only be the means I’d use to fund a project where I can grow melons year-round.

    There’s nothing wrong with lettuce. But it doesn’t excite me like melons do.

    I’ve also begun to look forward to my 2016 melon crop. This year may turn out fruitless, but surely we’ll have better weather next. I could be sitting down to a perfectly sweet Israeli melon in about 13 months, which isn’t that far away.

    Of course, I could just buy a melon from the store, but it wouldn’t be one I grew.

    Do I have a “passion for melons”? I enjoy eating them and growing them, and I’d like to find a way to produce them year-round. I enjoy selling them too. It would give me great satisfaction to have a supply to deliver to a restaurant in January, as sweet and tender as their July counterparts.

    Recent setbacks can’t take away my drive to produce melons, because I’m happiest when I’m growing them. Coming back from the field with a wheelbarrow full of ripe fruit gives me a feeling of accomplishment and purpose.

    To know that others are enjoying these melons, and that I’ve grown them sustainably, makes me feel as if I’ve done something good. I have to grow melons. It’s just what I do.

    Marshall Hinsley inspects melon vines dwarfed by the recent rains.

    Photo of Marshall Hinsley in field of melons
    Photo by Allee Brand
    Marshall Hinsley inspects melon vines dwarfed by the recent rains.
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    Roundup of Restaurant News

    Surprising string of closures surfaces in this Dallas restaurant news

    Teresa Gubbins
    Dec 3, 2025 | 3:54 pm
    Mom's Cafe
    Mom's Cafe
    Farewell Mom's Cafe

    This roundup of dining news around Dallas has more than the usual number of closures, from chains to small indie spots — and that's not even counting Dick's Last Resort, which closed after 40 years. But there are openings and comebacks, not to mention new menus for the season, and maybe even better, new cocktails, too.

    Here's what's happening in Dallas restaurant news:

    Naf Naf Middle Eastern Grill, a small Middle Eastern restaurant chain from Chicago which made its debut in Dallas market with a location in Frisco in 2022, has unfortunately closed. The chain is still opening locations in more receptive places like California, but is officially out of Texas.

    Mom’s Cafe, a modest restaurant at 602 Main St. in Allen that was revered for its basic, reasonably-priced fare, closed in November after 10 years. The restaurant changed ownership in 2024 and the beloved founder known as "Grandma" recently passed away.

    Natuur, the smoothie and bowls concept from Denver, closed its Dallas location at 1902 Henderson Ave. They opened in 2022 with great smoothies and smoothie bowls in blends such as açaí or super green, to which you could add fruits, toppings, and granola; plus sourdough toasts, salads, hot bowls such as oatmeal and tomato basil soup, and cold brew coffee. They also had a location in Austin, which recently closed as well.

    Theo's Drive-In, an iconic favorite in Grand Prairie, closed on November 30, after decades of serving late-night burgers, curly fries, and memories. The restaurant was founded in 1956 by Theo Chokas, then subsequently taken over by his nephew Theo. It wasn't until 2013 that they finally accepted credit cards. With its classic red roadside sign, it was a longtime staple on East Main Street, serving as a hangout after games, dates, and long nights with burgers, hot dogs, floats, and more.

    Jack in the Box at 6308 Gaston Ave. has mounted a comeback with a retro-inspired renovation. It's one of the original locations in Dallas which opened in 1969, and has been rebuilt with retro visuals and nostalgic touches such as an old-school speaker box, vintage signage, and a recreated classic menu board. The throwback is not a chain-wide initiative, but is only taking place at this location, which is owned by franchisee Chris Aslam, who operates 27 Jack in the Box locations in Dallas and more throughout the system.

    Jack in the Box Jack in the Box on Gaston AveJITB

    Naturals Rolls & Ice Cream is now open in Frisco at 5266 Independence Pkwy #105, serving rolled ice cream — the third place to open doing rolled ice cream place to open in the last year, following Maya Creamery in Las Colinas, and Cream and Crepes at the Shops at Park Lane, in a trend that weirdly seems to be making a comeback. In addition to rolled ice cream, the oddly-plural Naturals also serves shakes, juices, bubble waffles, and Indian desserts.

    Hugs Cafe, a nonprofit that employs adults with intellectual and developmental disabilities, will open in East Dallas on December 8 at 2918 Live Oak St. Hugs creates opportunities for adults with IDD to gain independence, confidence, and purpose through work. They'll be open for breakfast and lunch with dishes such as the Chickie Hug, Cheddar Biscuit Sandwich, salads, soups, and specials.

    Kimiya Japanese Cuisine McKinney is a new All-You-Can-Eat restaurant which just opened in McKinney in a former Denny's (and before that, a TGI Friday's) at 1615 N Central Expy. The AYCE option features sushi, sushi rolls, appetizers like edamame and crab puffs, and is $24 at lunch, when it's limited to 90 minutes. In addition to AYCE, they have a huge a la carte menu with sushi rolls, teriyaki, tempura, hibachi lunch, ramen, kalbi, bento boxes, fried rice, udon noodles, and more.

    Yemandi Yemeni Cuisine, a unique Middle Eastern restaurant at 888 S. Greenville Ave. #210 in Richardson, opened in May but only just celebrated a ribbon-cutting. The restaurant, which specializes in dishes from Yemen, the small coastal country south of Saudi Arabia, has enjoyed a whirlwind existence since it was featured in a TikTok video that showed its unique Sunnah-style dining option, available in a few secluded booths where you sit on the floor while you eat. The menu features familiar Middle Eastern staples such as hummus, but also less familiar dishes like hummus with liver.

    Café Momentum, the non-profit and culinary training facility, has unveiled a new seasonal menu created by chef de cuisine Aaron Collins in collaboration with Café Momentum’s youth interns. Dishes include fried oysters with Cajun spice with caviar ranch; delicata squash with tahini, pomegranate molasses, & toasted pecans; mushroom bisque; cider-brined pork tenderloin with spaetzle & apple-cabbage slaw; halibut with sweet potato, cauliflower, & Brussels sprouts; coffee-rubbed 44 Farms NY strip with broccolini & potato gratin; butternut squash rigatoni with kale & pancetta; Moroccan chickpea and vegetable stew with couscous; fennel zucchini salad with candied pecans; bourbon pecan pie; and chai-spiced sweet potato cake.

    White Rock Brewing Co. which is located in Oak Cliff, is serving holiday-themed cocktails through December that include a Cranberry Margarita and a Peppermint Espresso Martini. They're also making seasonal beers brewed with Noble Coffee including the Imperial Coffee Stout and Pumpkin Spice Ale.

    Nothing Bundt Cakes has two holiday flavors for December: Coconut Cream Snowflake, a coconut cake filled with vanilla pudding, topped with coconut, available in personal-sized Bundtlets from December 1-14; and Peppermint Chocolate Chip chocolate cake with chocolate chips and peppermint pieces, available in all sizes December 8-January 4.

    Dave’s Hot Chicken, the chain from California, has launched a new core menu offering: Saucy Bites, featuring Dave's Chicken Bites tossed in one of three sauces: Spicy Buffalo, Spicy BBQ, or Mike’s Hot Honey. They're also debuting a Ranch dip and a spicy version called the Reaper Ranch.

    Snooze, the buzzy brunch chain, has unveil a new lineup of holiday specials as follows: Sticky toffee buttermilk pancakes topped with pecan sticky toffee sauce, espresso-date mascarpone and candied orange zest; spiked peppermint hot chocolate with blanco tequila, coffee liqueur, and peppermint syrup; gingerbread latte with espresso, milk, gingerbread syrup, and a ginger snap cookie; caramel haze hot chocolate with hazelnut and caramel syrup; peppermint hot chocolate, and peppermint mocha hot with crushed peppermint.

    Toastique, the toast-loving chain with a location in Addison, has an amazing smoothie of the season: a spiced pumpkin smoothie with pumpkin, banana, almond milk, maple syrup, and pumpkin spice.

    Jinya Ramen Bar has new winter chef’s specials by chef Kazuya Takebe: Tokyo Yatai Classic, a clear chicken broth with pork chashu, seasoned egg, spinach, green onion, chopped, onion and a slice of naruto Japanese fish cake, with thin noodles nori; and Crispy Chicken Wings in Asian sweet-sour sauce. Guests who order the Tokyo Yatai Classic will receive one of three limited-edition ramen spoons featuring Demon Slayer characters Tanjiro Kamado, Zenitsu Agatsuma, or Inosuke Hashibara.

    Chili’s is bringing back a top-selling Margarita of the Month for December: the Merry Maker Marg for $6, with Lunazul Blanco Tequila, Cointreau, Monin Blackberry, strawberry puree, and house-made sour, served with a reusable Santa ‘stache straw.

    Fish City Grill and Half Shells have rolled out a wave of new menu items upgraded oyster nachos with housemade chips, chargrilled oysters, moked troup dip, the omega bowl with salmon, Havarti-cheddar mac & cheese, Mediterranean sea bass, and Texas redfish.

    Perch Bistro & Bar is launching 12 holiday cocktails which they'll serve from December 1-12. They include frozen spiced cranberry paloma, pomegranate spritz, gingersnap martini, spiced cranberry whisky sour, banana bread old fashioned, and a stuffing martini.

    Bellagreen American Bistro, the Texas-based healthy chain, has launched a new winter seasonal menu will run through February in all Houston and Dallas locations. It's built around the Golden Glow diet, featuring nutrient-dense ingredients like turmeric, ginger, sweet potatoes, kale, berries, and green tea. Highlights include chicken soup; golden grain & arugula salad (with butternut wild rice pilaf, chickpeas, pumpkin seeds, and goat cheese); roasted veggie quinoa-kale bowl with sweet potatoes, cauliflower, and tahini-sriracha sauce; seared salmon over turmeric cauliflower rice; peppermint cheesecake; and German chocolate cheesecake.

    White Rhino Coffee, the DFW coffeehouse chain, has three new seasonal beverages: Chumpkin, a blend of spiced chai and pumpkin with steamed milk which can be made "dirty" by adding espresso or matcha; Gingerbread Latte with espresso, milk, and gingerbread spice; and Banana Bread Latte with oat milk, banana purée, cinnamon, and choice of espresso or matcha.

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