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    The Farmer Diaries

    How to outwit pesky grasshoppers on a Texas farm

    Marshall Hinsley
    Apr 21, 2013 | 6:00 am

    My attempt to opt out of industrialized agriculture and declare food independence has not been without its challengers. As soon as my garden seeds sprout out of the ground, there are insects waiting to eat them.

    Now in late April, grasshopper damage has begun to appear on the tender leaves of young Swiss chard transplants. Not even a day after feeling the satisfaction of seeing cucumber and squash seeds sprout, I am washed over with frustration when I see the inch-high stalks stripped of their leaves.

    I can’t ID the grasshoppers as the culprit beyond a shadow of doubt. But I’ve been seeing their young nymphs all around, and I know their rap sheet. So I’m pinning the crime on them. Even if it was caused by a lesser bug, to take measures against grasshoppers is to brace against the worst of the pests and will cover me against anything less damaging.

    To take measures against grasshoppers is to brace against the worst of the pests and will cover me against anything less damaging.

    I've replanted the affected cucumbers and squash with fresh seed, but they'll suffer the same fate – and so will the rest of the food crops, without preemptive measures. But chemical pesticides consisting of neurotoxins and endocrine disruptors are not an option for me.

    Controlling grasshoppers is no small task. My garden plot and the adjacent fields are plagued by hundreds of thousands — if not millions — of them every year.

    Their numbers make them a formidable pest. A handful can take a few bites each out of a plant and devour it in just a few hours. In past summers, they have stripped the leaves from my okra, tomatoes, collard greens, kale and Swiss chard; a few times they’ve even devoured the leaves and bark off of my mulberry trees.

    I can’t say that my conflict with grasshoppers each year hasn’t made me doubt the merits of organic agriculture. The fact is, these plague proportions of grasshoppers are exacerbated by industrial agriculture.

    Planting vast fields of food crops nourishes the grasshoppers; chemical pesticides do little more than make grasshoppers feel dizzy while their predators take the hit. I’m surrounded by monocrops of cattle feed, so crop dusting planes are a frequent sight on the horizon.

    The fact that everyone around me uses toxic chemicals is proof that they’re ineffective against pests. The planes and giant tractors spray and spray — and still the grasshoppers survive.

    In past years, I’ve tried to wait out the grasshoppers and work with the plants that remained after they got their fill. I wasn’t too lazy to do something about them; I simply tried to grow food on a small scale with methods I could eventually use one day in a larger, commercial operation. So I avoided anything that I thought would be cost-prohibitive for growing acres of produce rather than square feet of it.

    Lightweight and cheap, the insect barriers have kept my lettuce as uneaten as it would be if it were growing in a poisonous gas chamber.

    But I think I’ve found a solution, in a catalog from a commercial farm supplier. It's called insect barrier, and it appears to be feasible both for my small plot now and for my aspirations of a larger farm with acres of crops.

    Unlike frost blankets — which I tried previously as a barrier, with poor results — the insect barrier won’t trap heat or reduce the amount of sunlight that reaches the leaves under it. It's a gauzy blanket that can be laid over garden plants with or without additional support structures, and it works about as simply as a pest control can work: Plants get tucked inside the barrier, and pests get shut out — no toxins, no dead wildlife.

    For my small plot, I’m using half-inch PVC pipes about three feet long, bent into semi-circles that I mounted to a frame of boards made of reclaimed wood from a torn-down barn. The barrier comes in affordable rolls, about 10 feet wide by 150 feet long. Draped over the pipes, it looks like covered wagons from the 1800s. Lightweight and cheap, they’ve kept my lettuce as uneaten as it would be if it were growing in a poisonous gas chamber.

    I plan to use this method on tomatoes, kale, Swiss chard and collard greens, as well as a few beds of zinnias that will produce cut flowers to be sold at the local farmers market. I’ll let the okra, cantaloupe, squash and hardier plants go up against the pests on their own — though I may sprinkle diatomaceous earth on them later in the season, to give them an edge in the battle. I’ll also keep adjacent land mowed regularly, so that the grasshoppers will have less refuge and food supply.

    By summertime, my efforts will be aided by the arrival of black-and-yellow garden spiders that weave massive zigzag webs, three feet in diameter, among the tomatoes. I also anticipate the return of a few roadrunners who spend their days chasing down grasshoppers for dinner. Coyotes also sustain themselves through the summer on a diet of grasshoppers, and there are a few of those around too.

    These creatures are the few survivors of the assault waged by industrial agriculture on my land before my time. It’s taken four decades of recovery for them to return, and the sight of them reassures me that sustainable food production is indeed worth the patience, effort and imagination it requires.

    A frame with insect barrier cloth protects lettuce plants in a raised garden bed.

    Photo by Marshall Hinsley
    A frame with insect barrier cloth protects lettuce plants in a raised garden bed.
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    More momentum

    Cafe Momentum scales its mission with new East Dallas flagship

    Luciana Gomez
    Apr 29, 2026 | 3:58 pm
    ​The exterior of the new two-story Cafe Momentum flagship center in East Dallas.
    Rendering courtesy of Cafe Momentum.
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    For over a decade, Cafe Momentum has served as more than just an acclaimed culinary destination in downtown Dallas; it has been a catalyst for kids impacted by the juvenile justice system.

    What began as a bold idea has blossomed into a nationally recognized model for youth empowerment. Now, as the organization prepares to plant its roots in a new East Dallas flagship, the mission is poised to shift from a local success story into a high-speed blueprint for national change.

    Cafe Momentum is building a new two-story, 11,000-square-foot center at 1000 Oak St. at Greenwood Street. The privately funded, $10 million project is scheduled to open in January 2027.

    The new flagship will house the nonprofit's operations and training, as well as its popular restaurant that is open to the public. Regular diners will be glad to know they won't be making any major changes to the menu; it will remain seasonally driven. They might add a Wednesday night dinner offering, they say. And in welcome news, it will have a patio.

    For the massive project, Cafe Momentum partnered with the Meadows Foundation, which provided a 0.8-acre plot in East Dallas. This partnership removes rental costs and places the new flagship in the Wilson Historic District on the Meadows Campus — a hub hosting 33 nonprofits. The structure is being built by Gordon Highlander.

    Cafe Momentum A feast at Cafe Momentum.Photo by Samantha Marie

    A mission with momentum
    The idea behind Cafe Momentum started with Chef Chad Houser back in 2008. While serving as executive chef and co-owner of Parigi, Houser visited a juvenile detention center to teach young men how to make ice cream — an experience that deeply shifted his perception of incarcerated youth, he says. In 2011, he launched a series of pop-up dinners at various Dallas restaurants to test the non-profit restaurant model, eventually opening a permanent location at 1510 Pacific Ave. in January 2015.

    Houser received the Humanitarian of the Year Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2025.

    Cafe Momentum’s mission is to transform lives by equipping justice-involved youth, aged 15 to 19, with life skills, education, and employment opportunities. Participants begin with a 12-month paid internship at the award-winning restaurant, rotating through every station to gain real-world experience and confidence. Because the program requires interns to be enrolled in school — and traditional environments rarely meet their needs — Cafe Momentum created an academy to help participants complete their high school degrees.

    After 10 years downtown, the organization has outgrown its current footprint, its leaders say. While workforce development happens at the restaurant, the other three pillars — 24/7 case management, mental health, and education — are housed at a nearby community center in the Thanksgiving Square underground tunnels. Integrating all four pillars into a single flagship center with the restaurant and the community center both under the same space will streamline operations and deepen their impact, they say.

    Cafe Momentum The restaurant will move from downtown to the new flagship in East Dallas.Rendering courtesy of Cafe Momentum.

    The expansion extends far beyond North Texas. Cafe Momentum opened a second location in Pittsburgh in 2023, followed by Atlanta in 2025, and a Denver site is slated for January 2027. Houser notes that interest from other cities remains high as they continue their national trajectory.

    The impact is even reaching other restaurant groups. The Kansas-based Thrive Restaurant Group studied the model and implemented it in seven of their Wichita locations. After hosting a pop-up with local community and government leaders to demonstrate what is possible, the framework proved so successful that they are now scaling to locations in North Carolina.

    “Scaling for us is a two-fold goal: the opportunity to build our location and also to build a bigger conversation and show people what is possible,” Houser says. “If we can do this in a segment that is so marginalized, think about what we can do in the broader community.”

    The data backs his ambition: nearly 95 percent of interns are making academic progress, and 100 percent now have bank accounts — enabling future access to credit — compared to just one in four at the start of the program. Additionally, 85 percent are in compliance with court orders, and over 75 percent receive consistent counseling.

    Chad Houser of Cafe Momentum Chad Houser of Cafe Momentum. Courtesy photo

    Real-life success
    Beyond the numbers, the results are most visible in the alumni. Lucciano, better known as “Lucci,” is currently a brand ambassador for Cafe Momentum and exemplifies the mission’s success. Lucci started his internship in 2022 with an incomplete 9th grade education, but a full dream of finishing school. He went on to earn his GED as valedictorian while working at the restaurant.

    “I told Chad I needed the opportunity and promised I’d make the best of it. It’s been foot to the pedal since then,” Lucci says.

    He even got the chance to assist with the new openings in Atlanta and Denver. Lucci admits he was acting as an ambassador long before he had the official title.

    “Being a server, you have to know how to describe the program; it was practice talking to people. I was telling everybody about it, even my Uber driver on the way to work.," he says.

    Stories like Lucci’s serve as motivation for the organization's future. With the success of the model proven through the lives of its alumni, Houser is now looking to continue their growth and community impact.

    “Having this flagship center will allow us to go hyperdrive into what a national practice could look like for us,” Houser says. To refine this national vision, leadership has met with organizations like LeBron James’ I PROMISE Program and Brandon Edwin Chrostowski’s EDWINS Leadership & Restaurant Institute, to learn from their practices.

    In the decade since its first restaurant opening, Cafe Momentum has served over 1,300 interns in Dallas.

    “What I am most proud of is where we are and how we are today,” Houser says. “Our growth is a direct reflection of an organization that was built by listening to the people we serve and responding to that.”

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